Festool FS1400/2-LR32 Rail

Jason.L.Hagen

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Joined
Jul 6, 2020
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89
I’m looking to buy one of these rails and I have a question about it. It is 55” and notes on the web it can do a 49” plunge cut. My question is I’m working on a couple of cabinets that have 48” long sides. Will I be able to use the 1400 rail to drill shelf pin holes the entire length? I’ve googled this and I can’t find the answer anywhere.

Thanks!
 
What distance for first hole?

Measure the distance between the guidestrips on the LR 32 plate and the center and you will know how many holes you can't use. Or... you can use, but not with full guiding. Same applies with the TS.
 
I’m looking at building a couple of SYSPORTS. The plans show the first hole at 8mm from the bottom. As I haven’t brought the rail, I’m trying to figure out if the 1400 would work if I should get of them or the 2424 rail. I’m wanting to keep the cabinet as tall as possible, on 32mm increments.
 
Do you already own the LR-32 plate?

Looking at pictures... and trying to remember my last of the the LR 32 system. I think you can use the 3rd hole on the rail with the plate being just on the edge of the rail. First hole is 12mm off the edge of the rail. Positioning with 3rd hole 8mm from the edge of your panel... that leaves 2x32+12-8=68mm of rail outside the workpiece.

Converting your funny units ... panel size 1219(,2)mm; yes, you can definitely do that whole piece.
 
No I don’t own the LR32 plate yet. I’ve got it on order and I’m hoping it will be here soon. I need to buy the rail and I found a supplier that has both the 1400 and 2424 rail. I was looking more at the 1400 rail as it would be easier to store.

I am trying to find some good instructions on how to use the LR32 system so I can watch and learn prior to it showing up.
 
One thing worth noting is that you can use a single LR32 guide rail to make as long of a series of holes as you want so long as you have parallel guides, either the Festool ones (from the LR32 kit or the full size pair) or third party ones like the TSO set (my preference). The parallel guides with set stops will let you keep the rail at a consistent distance from the edge; you can slide the router back up the rail to an earlier stop point, then slide the rail with the router attached until you can plunge the router bit into one of the holes you’ve already drilled. With the router plunged and the parallel stops in place, your rail should be properly aligned and the hole pattern spaced within pretty reasonable tolerances. (Exactly how reasonable will depend on what material you’re routing and how much runout there is in your bit.) Clamp it down and you can keep routing more holes.

I wouldn’t use this method on an expensive set of hardwood cabinets, but for personal projects, it works just fine.
 
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