Festool Stile and Rail Bits

Overtime

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Jan 25, 2007
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While looking for something a little different when it comes to style and rail bits I came across Festool's unique set 491129 & 491130. This will be for an upcomming bathroom vanity / cabinet door project. I have made a sample door (mdf and ply) using this set.  The actual project wood is to be be teak with teak ply panels. So far I like the look and I would like to know if anyone has used this set or has seen a finished project with this profile ? Or if you have an opinion on the look ?

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Bits have 8mm shank and door was made on a jessem router table using an 8mm collet bushing adapter.
 
All I can say is WOW! That looks so fresh!  8)

I was looking for some new cutters for a paneled headboard that wouldn't scream kitchen cabinet, and that profile certainly appeal to me. Please tell me what is the maximum stock thickness these cutters can handle?
 
Woodenfish said:
All I can say is WOW! That looks so fresh!  8)

I was looking for some new cutters for a paneled headboard that wouldn't scream kitchen cabinet, and that profile certainly appeal to me. Please tell me what is the maximum stock thickness these cutters can handle?

Another good example of the deficiency of Festoool's web site. his is something you should be able to easily determine by visiting the manufacturer's web site. But not yet.
 
Woodenfish , yep thats what I was looking for. Something other than the same old profile or the usual variations of it. Cove, Ogee, ect. I think I may have seen this profile used in "solid surface" material. festool's info shows a solid "wood" sample of the cope and stick individually, but not connected. I took a chance and ordered the set "kinda" knowing what the profile would look like. As far as the maximum thickness - I can't find it now  :-\ but on some link on some site it was listed. It is closer to 1" or 7/8 of course in mm , IIRC. It is a tad thicker than their other Ogee set.
  Mike , you would think that after creating the profile and machining the cutters to make them available for sale .... That they would have a photo or two , or some kind of info on the application of it's use  ???  Woodshopdemos has used and showed the "other set" with the traditional profile in one review.
   In my photo it shows a "line or transition" between the radius and the flat section. That dissapears with a light once over with sand paper. And gives a more smooth or soft look. And as far as a raised panel goes  ::) , I'm thinking flat or glass here because I don't see how any raised profile would work. Festool's panel cutter belongs with the other set.
 
How did this project work out? I am looking to buy this exact set and really like what I see with the MDF mock ups that you made. Thanks for posting the photos!
 
Overtime.
Those do look nice.  I'm always (emphasize always) experimenting with router bits, trying to find something unusual or at least just a bit different than what we're all used to seeing.  But to be honest I have never gone into the Festool line.  This makes me think I should give the Festool bits a try.

Make sure to post photos of the "real" project.

Michael Kellough said:
Another good example of the deficiency of Festoool's web site. his is something you should be able to easily determine by visiting the manufacturer's web site. But not yet.

I agree.  One of the things I hope this forum can do is clarify the mysteries I know customers have about the Festool Web site.  Posts like this are just the thing!

Matthew
 
Matthew Schenker said:
Overtime.
Those do look nice.  I'm always (emphasize always) experimenting with router bits, trying to find something unusual or at least just a bit different than what we're all used to seeing.  But to be honest I have never gone into the Festool line.  This makes me think I should give the Festool bits a try.

Matthew

Actually, Festool does not promote their line of router bits much at all, but they rate with the best of them.

Bob
 
In a different thread, Jerry Work identified the router bit set used above (491129 & 491130) and stated that there was a panel raising bit (491138) that could be used in conjunction with this set.

What do you think this would look like? Also, which rebate bit should I get to try out this almost $400 idea?

491138  - Panel Raising bit $67
491129 - Stile bit $97
491130 - Rail bit $101
491085 - Rebating Bit $105

Jerry Work said:
Hi Howard,

I have no experience with small shapers but do use the large shaper in my European combo machine all the time.  3/4" is the very smallest spindle I would be comfortable using and much prefer 30mm or 1.25".  When the shaper cutter gets very big/heavy the smaller spindle can deflect and whip so be sure to size your cutter to this smaller spindle.  Also, make sure the cutter is designed for hand feeding.  Shaper cutters come in hand feed and power feed shapes.  It is not safe to hand feed wood past a cutter designed for power feeding.  I would avoid the 1/2" spindle as I do not think it stable enough to work safely. 

The Jet machine link does not indicate where the router collets mount, but if they mount to the end of the 1/2 or 3/4" spindles then the cutter will be quite a ways away from the upper bearing and may wobble resulting in a less than steller cut.  A good table mounted router has an upper bearing very close to the cutter and likely would provide more bit stability.  For home use, over time I think you would be better seved by a good quality router table and industrial class table mounted router.  If you plan to do production runs then get a much larger industrial shaper with a power feeder.

On a router table, use horizontal panel raising bits, not the vertical variety, and one that has chip limiters built in.  Stay away from the cheap two wing cutters.  Pay for a good quality bit that is well balanced and work safely.  For a simple, elegant look that does not require hogging off a lot of wood, look at the 15 degree bits sold as "Shaker style" bits.  Festool also sells an interesting panel cutter that uses a rounded, almost bead like profile that has a nice modern look.  It does not require removing a lot of wood in one pass as you first cut a simple rebate to establish the tongue and then profile the edge of the rebate.  Part of the appearance profile is cut by the R & S cutters and part with the panel raiser bit.  To help you find it in the catalog the numbers are 491-129, 491-130, 491-138.  Hope this helps.

Jerry

HowardH said:
Ok, folks.  I am going to undertake a fairly big project, refacing all the cabinet doors in my kitchen.  31 to be exact.  I don't have a router table and my original plan was to build Norm's cabinet and then attach an aftermarket table, fence and lift.  I was in Rockler looking at options and one of the salesguys suggested to look at this Jet 1.5 hp shaper instead.  He made some compelling arguments, at least to my mostly uneducated ears. 
Pros:  about half the footprint.  Big with LOML.
         easy to set up
         powerful, even with only 1.5 horse since it is a true rating
         110 or 220, don't need to necessarily rewire but I'm adding a sub panel anyway (tired of tripping
         breakers when I have planer + DC going)
         Less expensive - about $650 whereas the entire RT setup would be close to a $1000.

Cons: you tell me.  I don't have any experience with shapers so help me out.  I know I would not be
         gaining any additional storage from the router table if I go the shaper route. 

What do you guys think?
 
Well Doug this project has been delayed but it is still a go. Still a month out. I like the sample door I made and will be using them for the project in teak. The cope and stick bits were very nice and easy to work with. Not a lot of futzing to get set up. Make sure you have an 8mm collet bushing adapter or an 8mm collet if you will be using a router table. The router table was perfect for this application.

  I was hoping someone would have posted a picture of a finished product using this set by now.

  I'm not sure what to make of the panel raising bit 491138 as I can't visualize the (complete) look with "this" set.  I like the look with the flat panel and so far thats what I'm going to go with - or I could just order the thing and see what it will look like. Or maybe Festool could post a pic with all three profiles put together  ;D

  Any way I'll be sure to put up a few pics when I can. Also for what its worth , I showed this moc up door to a few people including an experienced interior decorator - not one negative comment even while explaining that its MDF and not the "real wood" all were pleased with it.   
 
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