Finishing a scribe line

[skids]

Is there a particular Festool sander anyone likes for this task? Just curious to know if anyone has a technique for finishing to a scribe line with a Festool product.

Porter Cable makes a neat little small belt sander that would work well. Kinda hoping I use my RO125 or DTS somehow, just can't think of how.

 

[peter halle]

The RAS was a relatively non popular model until all of a sudden several different parties demonstrated it for scribing.  I have that PC belt sander and it is great for one hand use, but I prefer the RAS with its versatility and its dust collection.

You should be able to do a search for RAS and scribing and find some threads.

Here is one thread:  One of crown scribing and scroll to the bottom for Brian Sedgely scribing

Peter

 

[RDMuller]

RAS 115 is excellent

 

[tjbier]

I am scribing a lot of plywood right now on a kitchen and I have been getting it as close as I can with the table saw, then if its not quite good enough I finish to the line with the RO90 and some 40 grit on it.

 

[skids]

The RAS was a relatively non popular model until all of a sudden several different parties demonstrated it for scribing.  I have that PC belt sander and it is great for one hand use, but I prefer the RAS with its versatility and its dust collection.

You should be able to do a search for RAS and scribing and find some threads.

Here is one thread:  One of crown scribing and scroll to the bottom for Brian Sedgely scribing

Peter

Thanks Peter! You hit on the one tool I was avoiding buying which is that PC Belt Sander..Awesome little sander btw. The RAS looks like a grinder no? Do you think I could use my RO125 with a soft pad?

That video was freakin awesome BTW. What a tool. Now give me about other uses for that RAS and then maybe (just maybe) I will plunk down for that before I get my 1010!

 

[Guilliaume woodworks]

Get close to line with t55 then belt sand the rest...doesn't get any easier...if it a scribe with a lot of character then I will use jig saw instead of t55...

 

[skids]

I am scribing a lot of plywood right now on a kitchen and I have been getting it as close as I can with the table saw, then if its not quite good enough I finish to the line with the RO90 and some 40 grit on it.

Hows that working for you? Rotary setting all the way?

 

[Julian Tracy]

Beauty of the RAS is the ability to use simple any-brand fiber hard sanding discs, which you can really go heavy on - without any worries of burning up Festool's fragile "Fast-fix" velcro pads...

I use the RAS for coping crown and base molding as well.

I also have that little PC belt sander and it is a gem of a tool - being able to use a belt sander one-handed is great.

JT

 

[semenza]

I've seen the RAS in action scribing .... makes quick work of it.  I have been using the Rotex 150 with 40, 50, 60 , or 80 grit and hard pad. I like being able to use the Rotex mode to take it down fast then just switch to RAS mode to finish  and tweak.

Seth

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I don't own a belt sander, I have the ras. I hate to pick favorites, but I use it all the time. Every trim job, install, hardwood deck, even exterior trim I use that sander. 50g Rubin for the most part.

Everyone should own one.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

I don't own a belt sander, I have the ras. I hate to pick favorites, but I use it all the time. Every trim job, install, hardwood deck, even exterior trim I use that sander. 50g Rubin for the most part.

Everyone should own one.

I agree...it is a great tool.  I am getting ready to start some Maloof inspired chairs and this will be a key tool in the process...36 grit Saphir and it becomes a sculpting tool  ;D.

Scot

 

[Stone Message]

I now use just two tools for scribing...

If there is more than 4 mm to take away I start with the PSC420. I think that I showed a slither of oak cut from a built-in desk top in one of my videos. The Carvex was stable, easy to guide and left a nice clean cut. I leave a tiny bit for the next tool if the scribe has to be bang on.

After using the Carvex or if the amount to remove is less than 4 mm then I use my Rotex 90. I usually use 80 grit Granat in rotation mode. It is easy to guide, eats away the material (mostly oak or walnut for me) and leaves a clean edge. Sanding at an edge produces more excess dust that normal sanding and you need to be aware of this.

There was one very critical scribe that I did a while ago where it had to be perfect (a kitchen somewhere) and so I first scribed a piece of 18 mm MDF to fit and then used that as a template for my router.

The key to good scribe work is getting the scribe line right and marked with a thin enough pencil or marker.

Peter

 

[fatroman]

I tried my RO125 at scribing Poplar and it wasn't bad. It was easier than I anticipated it would be, but it wasn't exactly lickety-split either.

Rob Z finally convinced me to get a RAS. I'd resisted for some time thinking that the dust cloud would still be bad, and I had a grinder that could do similar work, etc. He promised me I wouldn't regret it.

Well.

It's incredible at scribing. So much easier than a coping saw and some files.

Go get one.

 

[tjbier]

Hows that working for you? Rotary setting all the way?

It's the 1st time that I've done I it like that and I really enjoy it and it works!  Yes, rotary setting and let that little bugger work!
Normally I would try to keep getting closer with the table saw and risk messing it up, that threat is gone now.
Also, the house I'm on is 90yrs old so the walls are everywhere and I have been giving the plywood a slight back bevel to make it fit even thighter to the wall.

 

[skids]

Hows that working for you? Rotary setting all the way?

It's the 1st time that I've done I it like that and I really enjoy it and it works!  Yes, rotary setting and let that little bugger work!
Normally I would try to keep getting closer with the table saw and risk messing it up, that threat is gone now.
Also, the house I'm on is 90yrs old so the walls are everywhere and I have been giving the plywood a slight back bevel to make it fit even thighter to the wall.

thats what I was thinking too..I have to rip the material to width anyway. I figured a slight back bevel, then mark the scribe line, and use the RO125 to get to the line. Figured the back bevel might save a few minutes here and there.

After seeing that RAS video I am definintely interested though. Problem I have been trying to set money aside for a 1010 or a TS55R! In other words I have soo many Festools ahead of a RAS. Too bad the work I do doesn't come in the same order as my desire for new Festools! 

 

[deepcreek]

I start with the TS55 to put a bevel on it.  Then depending on how much stock is left outside the line, I either use my RAS with a 50 grit grinder disc* or the homemade sanding stick I keep around for touching up coped joints.

*Thanks to Julian for helping me with this setup!

 

[peter halle]

Keep an eye out for a used RAS.  They are pretty bullet proof. I have to admit I bought mine to try for one project and actually went into it thinking that I might be returning if not happy.  My wife rolled her eyes and laughed.  She made me buy the systainer for the abrasives at the same time.  LOL.

Peter

 

[Kevin Stricker]

  The PC Armadillo really can't be beat for the price, I think I paid $85 reconditioned about 4 years ago and it gets used on most jobs.  The medium sized Festool hose fits and it gets much better DC than a Rotex and is also much easier to control.  Belts last a long time and can be refreshed.  The ability to sand to a line while flattening lumpy or proud drywall around a window or door makes it a must have in my book.  So much cleaner than hammering(tenderizing) or scraping.

Still looking for that used RAS for the last 2 years now, might have to bite the bullet and buy new.

 

[skids]

  The PC Armadillo really can't be beat for the price, I think I paid $85 reconditioned about 4 years ago and it gets used on most jobs.  The medium sized Festool hose fits and it gets much better DC than a Rotex and is also much easier to control.  Belts last a long time and can be refreshed.  The ability to sand to a line while flattening lumpy or proud drywall around a window or door makes it a must have in my book.  So much cleaner than hammering(tenderizing) or scraping.

Still looking for that used RAS for the last 2 years now, might have to bite the bullet and buy new.

It's a neat little sander for sure..My friend showed me a way to make Cove molding look self returned with that little sander-you can't tell the difference. Awesome timesaver. This is something the RAS probably would be challenged by.

The more see video on that RAS the more I think I need one. I just can't get derailed from saving for my router. Why does Festool have to be soo awesome!

The Armadillo may have to do for now since it can had for under $100. Although.....By the time I figure the cost of the Systainer into this, I might as well get the RAS. Crap..

 

[pezdad]

I had a very different experience with that PC mini belt sander - terrible. I bought one to help smooth out some curves in a fireplace mantel, and the motor burned out in less than an hour (literally burned out - magic blue smoke released, small of burning wires, etc). It was the same day I bought it so the store took it back, but I would not buy another. It may have been just a bad particular unit, but I think it showed why it was only $100 - it is NOT heavy duty (my unit wasn't even light duty).

I later picked up a RAS for other work, and it feels like I will be handing it down to my kids - it sure won't have the motor melt from less than an hour of poplar sanding.

Brian