Footswitch for a Sawstop PCS 3hp?

butzla

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I read about one of the reasons the Kapex burns up in the US is that it really shouldn't be plugged through a CT.  So I decided to plug mine directly into a wall receptacle and bought this foot switch for my CT.  It's a momentary foot switch and for the uninitiated (like me) that means it supplies power to the CT as long as you're stepping on the foot pedal.  Remove your foot and it switches the CT off.  It works really well and I like that I can keep the CT going a few seconds longer after the Kapex turns off.

So I was thinking of doing something similar to my Sawstop PCS (3hp).  I have the sliding table attachment  and so the switch is tucked in too far under the sliding table.  I have to turn it off with a blind feel for it.  A foot switch would make sense and gives me the added safety of being able to switch off the saw in times when I'm ever in trouble and need both hands to hold the work piece.  The only difference is its 220v and I do not want it to be momentary like my kapex switch.  Also I'm pretty sure my Sawstop switch is magnetic if that makes any difference.  Has anyone ever done it and if so please leave a source link in reply.
 
Have you considered the I-vac products? If you are going to consider them I would call their customer service department and discuss your options with them.
 
I think you should talk to Saw Stop.    I keep mine powered on (that is, plugged in), but use the yellow switch to give the electronics power and go through the start up sequence, then use the paddle to turn the saw on. 

If I understand, you want to have it so it will go on by applying power via the foot switch.    So the yellow switch would be on and the paddle switch on.  I am not sure that will work.

Suggest you give Trent Davis a call at SawStop.  I will PM you his number.

Bob
 
I would worry about accidentally stepping on the switch and creating a dangerous situation. You could be changing the blade or whatever and have the saw start.

I have more time than fingers.
 
I'm not worried about accidentally stepping on the footswitch.  You could easily train yourself to keep feet flat on the floor while working under the hood.  But for that and what Bob was talking about the switch needing constant power, are reasons I'm sure a Sawstop footswitch wouldn't work.  Plan B would be to extent the stock switch out towards the front of the saw.  For easier access and so I could bump the switch off with my knee if I needed to. If memory serves, I think there's enough wire to do this. 
Thanks for your input, I'll post pictures of what I come up with.....whenever I get around to it. (yeah right!)
 
Your decision, but my guess is that modifying the saw's wiring would absolve SawStop of any liability if something should go wrong.

I've looked at the sliding table and didn't go there simply because of space limitations. Now that I know you lose direct unencumbered access to the off/on switch makes me glad I passed. I normally hit the switch with my knee or my push stick. Not being able to do so would bother me.
 
Birdhunter said:
Your decision, but my guess is that modifying the saw's wiring would absolve SawStop of any liability if something should go wrong.

I've looked at the sliding table and didn't go there simply because of space limitations. Now that I know you lose direct unencumbered access to the off/on switch makes me glad I passed. I normally hit the switch with my knee or my push stick. Not being able to do so would bother me.

Exactly what I'm worried about.  And I know just enough about wiring to be dangerous. 
After another look it seems it's recessed so far back to give access to the locking pin for the sliding table.  I've had the saw for 7 yrs. and have gotten used to it being back there.  If I had to do it over again, I would certainly buy the table again.  It is awesome.  I'll come up with something.....eventually.
49732475086_886cc35948_c.jpg
 
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