For Festool Newbies (like me):

[fogunkb]

This is NOT a complaint or negativity, so please don't flame me! This is meant to help others

considering a Festool saw/rail system:

If you are considering a Festool TS 75 EQ, here are some things you should know right off (things I wish

I knew before I ordered mine):

First, your rails should be longer than the length you are cutting (long enough that the saw can start

before touching the wood and stop after leaving the wood). Since the saw is called a "plunge saw," and

since the literature mentions how well the saw plunges into wood, I assumed I needed a rail just long

enough to cut my longest boards. So I ordered the 32" accessory rail to connect to the 75" standard rail

(when connected, the two rails are longer than the eight foot boards I will be cutting). After learning

about the clearance needed before and after the cut, I called and asked if I could return the 32" and

order the 55" in its place (the dealer said no problem).

Second, every site I visited when researching Festool listed the TS 75 EQ as a kit (the saw and the 75"

guide rail). NOTHING on ANY site indicated that I could substitute the 75" rail with any length rail I

wanted (they just listed additional rails and rail connectors as accessories) - I just learned about

substituting rails when ordering while reading a Festool forum (probably this one). I am interested in

using the TS 75 EQ mainly for cutting lengths longer than 75" so naturally I ordered the 55" accessory

rail to connect to the "standard" (included) 75" rail. Further research indicates that "sometimes" there

is a problem when the saw reaches the spot where the two rails are connected and that "some" people

consider it a pain to connect and disconnect the two rails when making different length cuts.

If I had all this info before ordering, I would have ordered the saw and a rail long enough for my

longest cuts (rather than having to connect two rails) and a shorter rail for shorter cuts.

Most of you "old-timers" (experienced Festool users and forum members) will probably wonder

why a newbie wouldn't already know this stuff before ordering - remember, a lot of people don't

read internet forums!

Now I am tempted to call the dealer back and ask if I can return the two rails (I haven't used the

equipment yet) and order one long rail and one short one. I hate to keep troubling them, and also,

they are going to think I'm nuts (rather than "Festool-information-challenged")!

Hope this helps other newbies like me to do a LOT of research about the system before ordering.

 

[Les]

Most of you "old-timers" (experienced Festool users and forum members) will probably wonder

why a newbie wouldn't already know this stuff before ordering - remember, a lot of people don't

read internet forums!

You have hit on many good points that have been discussed to some length on this forum. As you say above, not everyone reads internet forums. So your points may not be seen by those that need the help.

IMO the dealers need to do a better job of helping the customer make the right purchase. This is hard when you are buying the tools in many instances over the internet. But if the dealer gets a contact phone number for an internet buyer, should he make a call to the customer? Especially if he thinks this could be a new user. Not sure how this could work but it might make for happier customers. Dealers who have a store should never let a customer walk out without knowing their intended use. Hopefully they will have a sale rep who know enough to help.

The Festool catalog has a wealth of information in it but little pertains to your problem. Would be nice if the Festools web site made it easy to find "How and where to use your tools". For example, many of the accessories offered for the routers are not familiar to the US user. If not for this forum and the great work of some of the members, most of those accessories would never have been sold because no one was sure what they were used for.

As far as Festool saying anywhere in their literature you need a rail 8-12" longer than the piece to be cut to get a clean accurate cut, don't recall ever seeing it. Maybe someone has and can point where to find.

I don't think you are being negative at all, just realistic.

 

[Qwas]

I'm sorry to see you getting started with Festool on a bad note. It will get better once the saw is in hand.

Open your packages carefully and keep your packing material. You have 30 days to exchange anything you are unhappy with.

I started with a TS-55 ordered through Bob Marino and was smart enough to exchange for a different rail. I still had to buy another rail later but I opted for a rail with the 32 mm hole system. Never thought I would have much use it for it but here I am 18 months later getting ready to use those holes!

Good luck with the new saw and if you have any questions, feel free to jump in and ask.

 

[Dan Clermont]

First off congrats on the new saw!!! You will like it once you've used it for awhile.

Your thoughts were similar to mine after I purchased my first Festool which was a TS 55.

I would have bought the longer rail and had not understood the extra length required for plunging. I remember my next question a couple of days later was about the vac and "what makes it turn on". Wouldn't you know if I got the vac 6 months later

Cheers
Dan Clermont

 

[Peterm]

Hi, and congratulations again on your new saw.

I don't think anyone's going to flame you here - it's just not that kind of board...

Most of you "old-timers" (experienced Festool users and forum members) will probably wonder
why a newbie wouldn't already know this stuff before ordering - remember, a lot of people don't
read internet forums!

No, although sites like this one (if there are any other sites like this one...) do provide an invaluable resource for anyone new to the system, or considering buying into it. Interestingly, though, when I just did a quick google search to check the prices in the U.S. for the TS75 kit ($595!! ) McFeeley's site popped up on the first page (here) and right there it spells it out very clearly :-

"For the TS 75, we recommend purchasing a 3000 mm (118") guide rail for ripping 8ft. sheets. The larger 15" base of the TS 75 reguires a longer rail to provide extra support for starting the cut. Two 1400 mm (55") connected to form a 110" will work, but you will have to plunge into your workpiece." (my emphasis)

So maybe you didn't have to trawl around internet forums, just take a look at a few dealers' websites?

Now I am tempted to call the dealer back and ask if I can return the two rails (I haven't used the
equipment yet) and order one long rail and one short one. I hate to keep troubling them, and also,
they are going to think I'm nuts (rather than "Festool-information-challenged")!

Dealers are there to be troubled - they want you to be happy, and keep coming back to them again and again...

For the record (and I've used my TS55 and guide rails more or less daily to earn my living since I bought it four years or so ago) I've never had a problem joining two guide rails, never had a problem getting  straight cut from them, have never clamped them for a straight cut, never had a problem running the saw over the join, never had a problem plunging the first part of a cut (always trying to get a slightly longer cut from the 1400mm rail than I really should) and for that matter have never had a problem moving the rail to make a longer cut.

Yes, if you're going to continuously cut 8' boards, then a long rail is good to have - but then so is a convenient timber yard with a panel saw

Let us know what you decide - and enjoy your new saw; really, once you start using it, all these niggles will just melt away...

Cheers, Pete

 

[Qwas]

I will back up Pete's second part, I have never had a problem joining 2 rails together. I know many have complained about it and I'm probably lucky, but I just butt them up and go. A perfect cut each time with no sign where the joint was.

 

[Per Swenson]

Hi All,

About connecting rails together.

To say I connect them daily is only a slight exaggeration.

And like Q, I just slapped 'em together and went.

Folks, we have a little over 50 linear feet of various rails.

Then braggadocio and hubris got the best of me.

While in Vegas at the Festool training center the subject came up.

I watched as Brian from the Festool staff, aligned the rails using the Ts55 saw.

He tightened the green guide rail knobs on the 55 while spanning the joint.

Worked like a charm.

Of course this was not the end of it and also where my big mouth became foot sized.

Because I said something to the effect of, "Oh come on man, slap the friggin thing together

and get to work. In the real world I don't have time to pay you for fiddling."

Proceeding then, to show how it was done.

I couldn't do it. No sheet, money where my mouth is, couldn't do it.

Do I have a answer or speculative reason? Nope.

Just to say for those guide rails in Vegas, the saw trick worked.

Henceforth I will no longer mutter to myself about the ineptitude of people who have

issues with guide rail alignment and offer my sincerest apologies.

Per

 

[bruegf]

As was mentioned in an earlier post, you have a 30 day return policy.  Ask your dealer about changing out the rails and if you can't get what you want return it and start over.  A bit of pain, but better than not having what you really want, especially at Festool prices.

Fred

 

[Michael Kellough]

Hi All,

About connecting rails together.

To say I connect them daily is only a slight exaggeration.

And like Q, I just slapped 'em together and went.

Folks, we have a little over 50 linear feet of various rails.

Then braggadocio and hubris got the best of me.

While in Vegas at the Festool training center the subject came up.

I watched as Brian from the Festool staff, aligned the rails using the Ts55 saw.

He tightened the green guide rail knobs on the 55 while spanning the joint.

Worked like a charm.

Of course this was not the end of it and also where my big mouth became foot sized.

Because I said something to the effect of, "Oh come on man, slap the friggin thing together

and get to work. In the real world I don't have time to pay you for fiddling."

Proceeding then, to show how it was done.

I couldn't do it. No sheet, money where my mouth is, couldn't do it.

Do I have a answer or speculative reason? Nope.

Just to say for those guide rails in Vegas, the saw trick worked.

Henceforth I will no longer mutter to myself about the ineptitude of people who have

issues with guide rail alignment and offer my sincerest apologies.

Per

When you guys first reported this trick I thought it sounded great but I haven't tried it.
Now that you say it is tricky I've given it a little more thought.

The TS saws have guide rail riding jibs that are proud on both sides of the slot.
The older ATS saws have jibs on only one side of the slot. The opposite side is a straight run of steel.

The technique sounds like it developed with the older ATF saws since the straight edge of the ATF slot
will pull the guide rails together into a line. The proud jibs of the TS saws will only aline two points
of the guide rails so you still need to straighten them.

The difference in the jibs also affects the amount of extra guide rail needed at the ends of the cut.
With the TS saws both jibs need to be on the rail for the saw to be straight. With the older ATF saws
you only needed a substantial amount (depending on your skill) of that straight steel slot to be engaged
with the guide rail so it could be shorter.

Shawn shared a good tip for aligning guide rails. He cantilevers the joined ends of both rails off of equal height tables
(like two MFTs) so the set screws of both connecting rods are accessible without having to flip the rails over.

 

[fogunkb]

Thanks for all the positive encouragement. I now feel confident that when I get back home tonight and actually get to see and touch the new system I will be comfortable with it. I may just keep all the rails (and order a longer one later IF I find joining two is a problem).

 

[Sam Murdoch]

A word of encouragement? I use the TS55, two 55" rails and one 42" rail. I wouldn't mind having one rail long enough to span an 8' length of plywood and a few in between sizes too, but it always becomes a question of prioritizing how I spend my money. That being said, I have had absolutely NO PROBLEMS connecting my two 55" rails for ripping plywood. Just connect them (make sure the butt seam is evenly closed of course). No other special adjusting required.  I commence to cutting  with the result of happy straight, non binding cuts through many, many sheets of plywood. Sorry to hear that others have encountered problems. Another factor for me in choosing the two 55" rails was the ease of transporting that size safely. The two are still being stored for transport in one of the original card board boxes that they were shipped in. I would be constantly worried about what to do with a supersize $ 200+ rail that must be kept straight in order to do its job. Why worry?

Good luck to us all.

 

[acer66]

A word of encouragement? I use the TS55, two 55" rails and one 42" rail. I wouldn't mind having one rail long enough to span an 8' length of plywood and a few in between sizes too, but it always becomes a question of prioritizing how I spend my money. That being said, I have had absolutely NO PROBLEMS connecting my two 55" rails for ripping plywood. Just connect them (make sure the butt seam is evenly closed of course). No other special adjusting required.  I commence to cutting  with the result of happy straight, non binding cuts through many, many sheets of plywood. Sorry to hear that others have encountered problems. Another factor for me in choosing the two 55" rails was the ease of transporting that size safely. The two are still being stored for transport in one of the original card board boxes that they were shipped in. I would be constantly worried about what to do with a supersize $ 200+ rail that must be kept straight in order to do its job. Why worry?

Good luck to us all.

Sorry about bringing such an old Thread back to live but it was exactly what I was looking for.

I am about to buy the T75 and I need to be able to cut 8' with it. While I like the idea of having a long rail I think the same way like Sam.
That rail would be to long for me to transport in the save manner a Festool tool deserves it.
Reading about the possibility to join them I was wondering about the connection lining up but it seems all good.

Thank you

 

[Matthew Schenker]

acer,
No problem bringing up an old discussion.  Age does not matter here!

On the connectors: I use them all the time to join two 55" rails.  They work great.  Sometimes, there is the slightest catch when the saw passes over the connecting point, but no big deal.  If you have a small shop, or have to transport the rails, it's a great option.

Thanks,
Matthew

 

[mwhafner]

Acer,

One thing to keep in mind when researching the rails is that the TS75 requires a little more rail than the TS55.  Not a big deal, just something to keep in mind.  If you do purchase a longer rail for 8' cuts, go with the 118" rather than the 106". 

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

There was a tip in our November 2008 SysNotes regarding joining guide rails.  If you don't already subscribe to SysNotes (our monthly email newsletter), you can sign up to receive via the Festool USA website homepage.

Did you know the "Bridge Method" for connecting and properly aligning two guide rails? If you need a quick method for connecting two guide rails follow these easy steps. There is also a step-by-step pictorial below for your reference.

  1. Using two guide rail connectors (482107, sold separately) join the two guide rails to one another leaving a slight (

 

[acer66]

Thanks Guys, I guess I have no excuse not to buy anymore

So to make sure, to rip a 96" piece with a TS75 you need a 118" rail to be on the save side.
That would mean for a 48" piece I need a 55" rail.

So it looks like a 75" and a 55" rail would be the best bet for a lot of 4x8 sheet goods.

Deke, of course I would also prefer a longer rail but at least in the moment that would be to long to transport/handle save for me.

Thank you

 

[JJ Wavra]

Acer -

I baught the ts75 and the 55" rail came with it(now it comes with the 75" rail).  You would be better off cutting the 48" with the 75" rail the 55" rail is too short unless you plunge into the cut.

JJ