FS rail positioning jig

[bbeaulant]

Hi,

In a current projet I would like to use this kind of joinery to build boxes under a desk :

I would cut the bevel on panels with my TS55 plunge saw.
But, in order to cut them, I build a small jig to place correctly my FS plunge saw rail.

This jig permit a first cut at 90° with the table saw and after cut the 45° bevel with the plunge saw without changing the panel width.



You can view it in action in this video. But sorry, it's in French.

 

[Carl Prentiss]

Je ne sais pas ce que vous venez de dire, mais vous avez une très belle zone de travail et je ai fait un gabarit bien pensé. (appareils)
Merci de poster ce sujet.
-Charlie

 

[bbeaulant]

Thank you Charlie. It's right that it's a pleasure to work in my workshop.

 

[bionicus]

Nice. I made a simple pair of these years ago after struggling with the exact same problem. Mine don't have any moving parts but are the same otherwise and give me perfect mitres. I tried using the edge stops included with the LR32 kit but they never seemed to be as accurate. Working with really thin veneer ply there's almost no room for error.

Your YouTube channel is great. Really nice workpieces.

 

[bbeaulant]

Your YouTube channel is great. Really nice workpieces.

Thank you Bionicus

Mine don't have any moving parts but are the same otherwise and give me perfect mitres.

The moving part permit to consider the blade width variation or to have a positive or negative translation of the cut line. In this case the jig is a little more versatile.

 

[mwildt]

Just awesome.

I could see that jig ending up as one of Woodpecker's 'onetime tools'. You should send them an email. Who knows maybe they like it.

 

[NuthinFancy]

I realize this thread is older, but I'm adding this in case others are still interested in the original topic.
A fellow named Huy in Alabama (he has a YT channel "The Alabama Woodworker") with a number of interesting videos, including one for what he calls his MOAT: MOAT video, which has track/rails built into the long sides of the table.

While not a "build" video, he does provide details, including specifications, about the Misumi parts used for the rails.
An interesting approach that I'm considering for my (first) assembly, etc. table.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Has anyone found the single channel Series 6 extrusion he used?

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=297]Michael Kellough[/member]

Has anyone found the single channel Series 6 extrusion he used?

Mitsumi Extrusion

 

[Michael Kellough]

[member=297]Michael Kellough[/member]

Has anyone found the single channel Series 6 extrusion he used?

Mitsumi Extrusion

That’s an ordinary 4 channel extrusion. He used a single channel extrusion on the side and top of that heavy hardwood band around the perimeter of the table.

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=297]Michael Kellough[/member]

Has anyone found the single channel Series 6 extrusion he used?

Mitsumi Extrusion

That’s an ordinary 4 channel extrusion. He used a single channel extrusion on the side and top of that heavy hardwood band around the perimeter of the table.

Single Slot Extrusion series 6

 

[Michael Kellough]

Thanks Mario but that is still not what he has in his table. Did he saw away all the stuff that surrounded the channel? Why didn’t he just use ordinary T-track instead?

In the video, look at the close-up at 1:15.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Thanks Mario but that is still not what he has in his table. Did he saw away all the stuff that surrounded the channel? Why didn’t he just use ordinary T-track instead?

My bad, I didn't notice untill you point out the video  [embarassed]

 

[Michael Kellough]

In the video, look at the close-up at 1:15.

The extrusion he used is only about 18mm x 12mm. Didn’t see anything close to that in Series 6

 

[Michael Kellough]

I wrote Huy and got an immediate reply.

“ I bought the extrusion directly from Misumi. I included part numbers and links in my "Precision Miter Saw Fence" video. Check that out and your questions will be answered. ”

I’ll check that out later.

 

[Mario Turcot]

There you go Flat Extrusion (V-Channel Track)

The 15mm one have two holes at the end. I guess those holes are running along each sides no matter the length. One of the use for the holes is capping

Caps

They also have the same track with shoulders Track with shoulders

 

[sandy]

What am I missing?  Can’t you just slide the rail and feel the edge of the board to be mitered and align it with the cut strip on the rail?

Sandy

 

[Svar]

What am I missing?  Can’t you just slide the rail and feel the edge of the board to be mitered and align it with the cut strip on the rail?
Sandy

I can't speak for the OP, but I think most track saws cut slightly away from splinter guard when tilted 45 deg. This is especially true for Mafell MT55. The jig might compensate for that offset.

 

[Michael Kellough]

What am I missing?  Can’t you just slide the rail and feel the edge of the board to be mitered and align it with the cut strip on the rail?
Sandy

I can't speak for the OP, but I think most track saws cut slightly away from splinter guard when tilted 45 deg. This is especially true for Mafell MT55. The jig might compensate for that offset.

Also compensates for a worn down splinter guard and can be set to allow a specific thickness of stock to remain above the bevel. But all that can be achieved with a combination square registering between the stock’s edge and the right side of the rail spine. Except if you want the bevel to be well below the top of the stock. Then you’d need the jig and add a shim or spacer to allow the jig to slip under the rail.

 

[sandy]

My understanding, and my experience, has been that the TS55 when "tilted" to make a bevel cut will cut along the splinter guard the same as when it is set to 90 degrees.  I understand that if you are using a "worn down" splinter guard you may need to adjust something, but that would also be true if you use the same worn splinter guard to make a 90 degree cut, so the (obvious) solution is to replace the splinter guard.

To the extent that you want the bevel to not extend all the way to the top of the piece being cut, you can readily do the offset by simply making a couple of marks on the surface of a sacrificial  board having the same thickness, and using the sacrificial to push the board to be cut under the trim edge of the rail.

Unfortunately, to me, anyway, this is a "solution" to a non-existent problem.

Sandy