FSK rail question

pixelated

Member
Joined
May 3, 2016
Messages
469
Can the angle stops on the FSK rail be retracted or removed to allow the guide to set flat on a workpiece for doing blind cuts? For example, to cut something like a window opening in sheathing?
Thanks
 
Yes.  The miter stop just slides off the track.  The permanent ( non adjustable stop ) is removeable via two screws
 
pixelated said:
Can the angle stops on the FSK rail be retracted or removed to allow the guide to set flat on a workpiece for doing blind cuts? For example, to cut something like a window opening in sheathing?

I'm assuming you're going to use a HK/HKC saw, if so, I'd consider using a FS rail instead, it could be fastened to the sheathing with a couple of wood screws. That'd be a lot easier than trying to hold up both a saw and a rail and keeping everything in proper position. [smile]
 
Thank you [member=44099]Cheese[/member] and [member=62710]jgowrie[/member]. Yes with an HKx saw, and I agree that an FS track would be better for that particular case. I  don't have any of it yet, so I am trying to fully understand what all my options are before writing the check.
 
[member=61230]pixelated[/member]
I guess it gets down to how large will the window openings be, that kind of drives the length of the rail. The FSK 420 rail only has a 16" capability before you have to reposition it. Also, I don't know how open you are to drilling extra holes in a rail but FWIW the FS has 2 each 8mm holes, 1 at each end, while the FSK has just a single 12mm hole.
 
It was really a generic question, I was using the case of a window opening as an example. But I do have a pending project where I need to cut openings in 4x8 material, the blind cut is within the FSK 420's capacity.

The HK saw is really attractive to me, it seems to address all the things I hate about my "ordinary" circular saws that it would be at least partially replacing. The decision for me is getting just the saw and FSK 420 to start with or get an FS track too (or instead), either way, it's awfully dear compared to those "ordinary" saws, but I hate trying to do good work with the usual combination of clamp on generic guides or framing lumber. +I have projects coming up where the cost of spoiled materials could make the saw seem cheap. Thank you again.

 
Back
Top