Getting 2" cut out of TS55 with the guide rails

[irvin00]

Hi, everyone

Hoping that more-experienced forum members can give me some ideas on how to solve this problem: I'm working on my workbench top - it will be 2 inches thick from Appleply (I'll face-glue two 1-inch pieces). Now, the TS55 I have does not cut 2" with the guide rails. I have thought of two possible solutions:

1. Glue the two pieces and cut to size running the saw AGAINST the rail instead of ON the rail, but I'm afraid the cut will not be straight or that I'll get some nasty kick-back. Is this doable (as in "will I get a good, straight edge?")
2. Cut one of the pieces to the exact size BEFORE the glue-up and cut the second one, say, 1/8" bigger. Then, glue them up and use a trim bit with my router to make them even (this is my "solution" so far, but I wonder how smooth/even the joined edges will be)

Any other solutions or improvements on my ideas? What would you use as your glue for this project? I'm trying to decide between Titebond III and 3M's 90 Spray Adhesive. Cauls or temporary nails for clamping? Any ideas will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Hi irvin00,

I used a TS75 to trim my 4 inch thick benchtop and it worked great.  I cut full depth on one side, flipped the bench and cut the remaining depth, a little wider than the final cut.  I then used a router with a flush trim bit to true up the second cut and make it flush with the first cut.  It worked great and everything came out flush and square.

Scot

 

[Jay Knoll]

Irvin

your second alternative is by far the best.  I see nothing but trouble with the first alternative you mentioned.

And your cut should be silky somooth, Hey that is what flush cut router bits are supposed to do. Assuming you don't tip the router while you're doing the trimming you should be fine.  This is the way I did it when I made my bench, only I was using MDF which was then wrapped in maple edging.

Jay

 

[nickao]

Titebond III without a doubt! Other than epoxy it is the only glue I use anymore, the pennies saved are just not worth getting anything less for me.

You need a bit more pressure than temporary nails will give you, plus, using nails(I have done in the past) does not give an even pressure.

 

[irvin00]

Excellent ideas from everyone! I truly appreciate the quick responses and the great ideas. I guess it is a trim bit with Titebond and cauls.

Question: in my original post, I used the term "nails" but I meant screws (spax) that I could take out after the glueup. I was thinking that I can strategically position them where the dog holes will go. My reason for this is that I'd like to save the time and work of making cauls. My benchtop will be relatively small at 60x20, but I'll get the cauls if needed (will make trip to Home Depot and buy some twisted 2x4's!). If I go the cauls route, how many for this size (I'm assuming they will be laid along the shorter - transversal? - axis).

Once again, thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge with this woodworker-wannabe!

 

[Jay Knoll]

Irvin

The screws should do it, and with careful layout you can leave the ones in where're you're NOT going to put dog holes.  Unless your bench top is going to have as many holes as a MFT you will need to get even pressure across the whole surface.  So don't scrimp with screws in the middle of your top.  I would pretrill the holes and hit the back side where with a countersink as well.  That way, any little wood bits that come through as you're drilling the screws will have a place to hide and won't end up between the two sheets of ply messing up your glue bond (or flatness)

You didn't mention what kind of surface you're going to glue the top on but, IT MUST BE DEAD FLAT otherwise you'll end up with a bowed top which will make it useless for assembly purposes, or for anything where you want to use the top as a reference for cutting operations.  When I laminated up my first bench top (notice I said my first?) I didn't take that into consideration and used a plastic fold up table thinking that the first sheet of MDF would form the flat surface.  I was wrong, the MDF weight made the table sag and as it did so did all the rest of the sheets.  I had glued 4 together so it was a bit of a sad day when I discarded the top and went on to build another one.  That one I glued up on our living room floor --Travertine marble, hand laid, and each 18" tile leveled by hand to the adjoining tiles.  We know that was dead flat and luckily LOML said go ahead you're not going to hurt anything.  It took three of us to carry the glueup back into the shop to finish the job but it was worth it

Jay

 

[AlexThePalex]

1. Glue the two pieces and cut to size running the saw AGAINST the rail instead of ON the rail, but I'm afraid the cut will not be straight or that I'll get some nasty kick-back. Is this doable (as in "will I get a good, straight edge?")

This should be perfectly doable as long as you use something else than the rail. The rail is too thin to do this safely. Use something else that's perfectly straight like a piece of 18mm (3/8'') MDF. You should not have to worry about kick-back. This is a European saw and they don't have these kick-back problems American saws apparently have, just like European cars don't explode when they crash, unlike those American cars we always see in the movies.  [poke] 

 

[irvin00]

You didn't mention what kind of surface you're going to glue the top on but, IT MUST BE DEAD FLAT otherwise you'll end up with a bowed top which will make it useless for assembly purposes, or for anything where you want to use the top as a reference for cutting operations. 
Jay

Thanks for the info, Jay. I'm thinking of just face-gluing two pieces of 1" Appleply (Birch) to get a 2" top that will rest on the legs/frame. I'm doing this on my current bench, which uses an IKEA countertop as a top - it is very flat after almost two years! The ply is absolutely flat and I hope it will stay that way. Do you think it will sag or warp in the near future?

 

[irvin00]

This should be perfectly doable as long as you use something else than the rail. The rail is too thin to do this safely. Use something else that's perfectly straight like a piece of 18mm (3/8'') MDF. You should not have to worry about kick-back. This is a European saw and they don't have these kick-back problems American saws apparently have, just like European cars don't explode when they crash, unlike those American cars we always see in the movies.  [poke]   

Thanks, Alex!  [big grin]

 

[rwdawson]

Alex,

This should be perfectly doable as long as you use something else than the rail. The rail is too thin to do this safely. Use something else that's perfectly straight like a piece of 18mm (3/8'') MDF. You should not have to worry about kick-back. This is a European saw and they don't have these kick-back problems American saws apparently have, just like European cars don't explode when they crash, unlike those American cars we always see in the movies.  [poke]  

As one who lives in that part of the world that can't understand why everybody has to use that complicated metric stuff, I'd like to point out my European friend that 18mm is closer to 3/4" than 3/8" [smile]

Richard

 

[Jay Knoll]

Irwin

I assume you're storing the ply either straight up on edge (not leaning against a wall) or have it down flat on something.;  If you glue it up flat and then properly support the final top should stay flat. 

Jay

 

[AlexThePalex]

Alex,

This should be perfectly doable as long as you use something else than the rail. The rail is too thin to do this safely. Use something else that's perfectly straight like a piece of 18mm (3/8'') MDF. You should not have to worry about kick-back. This is a European saw and they don't have these kick-back problems American saws apparently have, just like European cars don't explode when they crash, unlike those American cars we always see in the movies.  [poke]  

As one who lives in that part of the world that can't understand why everybody has to use that complicated metric stuff, I'd like to point out my European friend that 18mm is closer to 3/4" than 3/8" [smile]

Richard

Right. I meant to say that. My bad.  [smile]