Getting the R0 90 DX

[PreferrablyWood]

After much research on the Systainer madness I started widening my view and looking around on what my next job entails, So I've re ordered my list, I will wait on getting some Systainers and the Syslite KAL 2 l and get the RO 90 DX abrasives and the Sys-Roll  instead because I find I'm in a do or die situation; really! To get this coming job done before the really bad weather sets in late November I really have got to get cracking, My metabo SX E 400 80mm sander was going to be the most used tool for that job, but after the wise Fogarian "Neeleman" pointed out how much better the Festool RO 90 is and me subsequently finding out that the 80mm size of the Metabo has a very limited choice of abrasive types, I have just decided to go for the RO 90 with 100 free sheets of 120 Gr granat and buying 50 pieces each of 60 Gr and 80 Gr and 100pcs 180 gr Granat. It's a bitter pill to swallow that I really should have went with the Festool sander in the first place, but I live and I learn.. oh well  I'll do the Systainer organization thing a little more gradually than planned, wait on getting the Sys-Roll and the SysLite and the finer grade abrasives for my RS 300..

Of course it's always nice to get a new tool than all those other accessory type items which can help some organization issues etc, in this situation it just makes more sense...

 

[RC]

Don't know what exactly you are sanding, but from experience 40 grit is awfully coarse for anything. I'd rather do 80 - 120 - 180 for all-purpose wood sanding.

When I relacquered an outside table last summer I tried 40 and 60 grit and found them hard to control and leaving awfully deep scratches. Starting with 80 grit was almost as quick and a lot faster to get rid of the scratchmarks.

 

[AlexThePalex]

40 and 60 grit is for when the going gets tough. Wouldn't recommend it on surfaces that get a clear coat, you'll have to do a lot of work to get the scratches out. Much better suited for painted surfaces, and really necessary when you have to remove thick layers of paint. But generally, I prefer to avoid anything below 60 unless I really have to.

You won't regret getting the RO90 instead of the Metabo 80mm sander. They RO90 is really in another league. It will make you work a heck of a lot faster.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

Don't know what exactly you are sanding, but from experience 40 grit is awfully coarse for anything. I'd rather do 80 - 120 - 180 for all-purpose wood sanding.

When I relacquered an outside table last summer I tried 40 and 60 grit and found them hard to control and leaving awfully deep scratches. Starting with 80 grit was almost as quick and a lot faster to get rid of the scratchmarks.

Thanks for the tip. I've got a problem with these tables they are painted with two incompatible paint types, so I have to remove it down to the bare wood.. It's going to be painted again with oil based paint.. I don't know the RO 90 though so maybe I should start with 60 gr. I used 40 grit with the Metabo 125mm last year on some table tops with the same issue, and it worked out okay..

 

[PreferrablyWood]

40 and 60 grit is for when the going gets tough. Wouldn't recommend it on surfaces that get a clear coat, you'll have to do a lot of work to get the scratches out. Much better suited for painted surfaces, and really necessary when you have to remove thick layers of paint. But generally, I prefer to avoid anything below 60 unless I really have to.

You won't regret getting the RO90 instead of the Metabo 80mm sander. They RO90 is really in another league. It will make you work a heck of a lot faster.

I'm replacing the metabo 80mm with the RO 90 DX! Sad but true went budget in my ingnorance and am now paying twice!

It is really a messy job as they painted Linseed oil paint on top of another type of paint probably oilbased and it never hardened then they tried using another type of paint to remedy the problem and it just made things worse the dark blue color has been rubbing off onto peoples clothes, so I do this to help out, nobody is forcing me to do it, but being a helpful type I sometimes end up fixing other peoples mistakes... Oh ja it also insures I have a Job at this place as long as I want to keep going with it!!

I modified the original post to reflect yours and Reiskas advice about grit choices, but I still don't dare going to less than a 60 grit. It's really a rough job, so I need to make fast progress, and having 80, and 120 gr for smoothing and 180 gr for between first and second coats should give me a more than adequate finish..

 

[waho6o9]

The Rotary RAS is king for paint removal.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

The Rotary RAS is king for paint removal.

I know this is the consensus, but I think it lacks in the DC department so as a tool I'll use in other less demanding situations I think I'd prefer the more all round RO 90 DX though the RAS 115 is still on my list. Admittely though for this outdoor job it would be very well suited..But originally I was intending on using the smaller format sander for indoor things, base boards, window frames, where customers put a high value on DC, though you've got me thinking...

 

[AlexThePalex]

The Rotary RAS is king for paint removal.

Yes, and also king in messing up your pretty table. That's never gonna be flat again. Not something I'd wanna use on good furniture.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

The Rotary RAS is king for paint removal.

Yes, and also king in messing up your pretty table. That's never gonna be flat again. Not something I'd wanna use on good furniture.

That did cross my mind that the RAS 115 has to be used very carefully, it wouldn't be such an issue on the substructure of these tables but there are a lot of small corners that the Ras 115 wouldn't be able to get into while it seems the form factor of the RO 90 DX will handle that with ease..

I'm already thinking up my modus operandi for doing the job, building a tent out of tarps to cover all seven tables, building a structure to bring them up to a better working height, then flipping the tables onto it on their backs, oh and where's that Festool expresso coffee machine?

I did something similiar last November-December, it was crazy but got a huge amount of work done, while most outdoor work was finished for the year, it's also good as their is no one needing to use the tables in that time period. I need the tent, because these unseasonally warm Novembers we are experience also mean rain! and lots of it!

 

[RC]

It is really a messy job as they painted Linseed oil paint on top of another type of paint probably oilbased and it never hardened then they tried using another type of paint to remedy the problem and it just made things worse the dark blue color has been rubbing of on peoples clothes, so I do this to help out, nobody is forcing me to do it, but being a helpful type I sometimes end up fixing other peoples mistakes... Oh ja it also insures I have a Job at this place as long as I want to keep going with it!!

Have you thought about chemical paint remover and scraping the worst off first before clogging your sanding pads with gummy paint?

 

[PreferrablyWood]

It is really a messy job as they painted Linseed oil paint on top of another type of paint probably oilbased and it never hardened then they tried using another type of paint to remedy the problem and it just made things worse the dark blue color has been rubbing of on peoples clothes, so I do this to help out, nobody is forcing me to do it, but being a helpful type I sometimes end up fixing other peoples mistakes... Oh ja it also insures I have a Job at this place as long as I want to keep going with it!!

Have you thought about chemical paint remover and scraping the worst off first before clogging your sanding pads with gummy paint?

Oh the paint is pretty old now, so even though it's still rubs of on peoples light colored clothes it's pretty dry.. But you are right I do still go through quite a few pads perhaps 30 for the 7 tables substructures.

I've never really used chemical paint removers as I find the mess it makes is time consuming to clean it all up...and it's toxic..

 

[Pixel]

Said it before so will say it again, try out the Metabo LF724S paint stripper, would take less than 5 minutes to remove any type of paint from a table and after you can concentrate on getting the bare wood surface back to a suitable finish for repainting, alternatively spend lots of your valuable time sanding off the paint and lots of your valuable cash on sanding discs

 

[PreferrablyWood]

Said it before so will say it again, try out the Metabo LF724S paint stripper, would take less than 5 minutes to remove any type of paint from a table and after you can concentrate on getting the bare wood surface back to a suitable finish for repainting, alternatively spend lots of your valuable time sanding off the paint and lots of your valuable cash on sanding discs

I know about the tool you mention here, but it's most suited to larger flat surfaces, not this job where there a lot of small corners edges and so on.. Besides after stripping with the metabo you still need to sand paint remnants..

I used the 80mm metabo last year on some tables mostly the edges and it was fast and effective enough, The 125mm 400 SXE Metabo eccentric sander removed the paint on the tops of the table quick enough, I think I was through with the table top within 75 minutes and that was ready for paint.. This year I need something faster than the 80mm metabo because I'll be doing rather complicated paint removal on 7 table bases, and I think the RO 90 is more egronomic and faster, the variety and types of abrasives means than I will be speeding through the job, the delta pad will get me into all the tight spaces..So I'll be happy I went with it. The Metabo paint stripper you mention would be a nice tool to have if I had larger projects lined up..

Sanding disks for this job might cost around 20 euro which is acceptable..

 

[Pixel]

Far from it, I am restoring a 500 year old property and some of the internal doors and frames have 10's of layers of lead paint dating back hundreds of years, it would be impossible to get into the frame rebates etc with a sander but the Metabo clears out rebates and the detailing around architraves in minutes, i also use it for removing old putty from glazing rebates, a job that I used to have to do with a chisel in my younger days. 

 

[GreenGA]

On a totally different subject, and if you agree, it would probably be best if you started a new thread.

I am a bit fascinated with your project of restoring a 500 year old property (I assume that's the house).  On this side of the big pond, our country is not even that old, let alone a property or house!  I would be extremely interested in photos of your project as it progresses so would I be out of line asking if you could post photos along the way?

My thoughts on the matter are that you will encounter things that we have never seen, or things done 500 years ago that are still in wide use today.

Thanks.

I am restoring a 500 year old property and some of the internal doors and frames have 10's of layers of lead paint dating back hundreds of years, it would be impossible to get into the frame rebates etc with a sander but the Metabo clears out rebates and the detailing around architraves in minutes, i also use it for removing old putty from glazing rebates, a job that I used to have to do with a chisel in my younger days. 

 

[Pixel]

As bought in 2008, I will search my libraries for work in progress and one day hopefully, god willing, I will be able to show you the finished project.

On a totally different subject, and if you agree, it would probably be best if you started a new thread.

I am a bit fascinated with your project of restoring a 500 year old property (I assume that's the house).  On this side of the big pond, our country is not even that old, let alone a property or house!  I would be extremely interested in photos of your project as it progresses so would I be out of line asking if you could post photos along the way?

My thoughts on the matter are that you will encounter things that we have never seen, or things done 500 years ago that are still in wide use today.

Thanks.

I am restoring a 500 year old property and some of the internal doors and frames have 10's of layers of lead paint dating back hundreds of years, it would be impossible to get into the frame rebates etc with a sander but the Metabo clears out rebates and the detailing around architraves in minutes, i also use it for removing old putty from glazing rebates, a job that I used to have to do with a chisel in my younger days. 

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

 

[PreferrablyWood]

Looks like that would be a bear of a job, seems like the metabo will be effective with that kind of work...

 

[AlexThePalex]

Cool, your own castle!  [smile]

On something like that, you're never finished.

 

[GreenGA]

Thank you for the photos...  And I look forward to whatever you can post in the future.

 

[Pixel]

Thank you for the photos...  And I look forward to whatever you can post in the future.

Don't know what happened there, chose the folder containing the pre purchase photo's and only 3 appeared