Good experience with my 55

stevelf

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Mar 19, 2008
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---Today I was joining three sets of two 5' pieces of 5/4 X 6" Ipe. I recently sold my larger jointer, so I used my small Deltal bench jointer. I would have used my Festool planer with the jointer thingy, but, to be honest, I did not want to dull that blade on the Ipe. I was surprised at the bad results of the joining, so I decided to try my newish 55...I used dominoes and West Marine epoxy. Very impressive results. My 55 wasn't cutting a perfect 90 degrees ( close, but just a smidgeon off... ), so I flipped each board before dominoeing to compensate, and it worked great. I'll have to reread that thread on getting a perfect 90 degrees. Anyways, I was psyched to bypass the jointer... 
 
Steve - You can edit your original post and fix the spelling error, if you wish.  Just click on "Modify".
 
steve,

Just the other day, I was thinking just the same thing about my TS55 and mft setup. It is such a great feeling and privilege to work with this saw, and system!!

I was creating a torsion box, and the height of the grid pieces needed to be exactly 2 & 47/64 in order to match a table height. Can you guess the measurement of the very first cut? It was exactly 2 & 47/64...according to my caliper readout.

Five years ago or so, I never would have guessed that I could be that accurate with my tools. I believe that I will be a Festool follower for life.

Glad to hear your experience with the saw!!

Rey
 
I have also gotten good results on rip joints using the rail and clamps. Once ripped, i don't touch the edges;
I machine for biscuits and pocket screws and then glue it up.

 
I am working on a high end home remodel building a staircase that incorporates some cabinetry. The lead carpenter on the site is currently installing Ipe decking overhead on the balcony ceilings. He is an experienced craftsman and I have been very impressed with his work. He had to wrap a large beam about 8' long with Ipe and asked if I could joint some of the decking to get the required widths to make up a mitred box to slip around it on three sides.

No problem! I had my TS55 with 2700 rail and an assortment of shorter ones, a Domino, some 5X30 Sipo tenons, Gorilla glue and lots of clamps. I picked up a 28T universal blade and it ripped the 4/4 Ipe like butter. The edge was perfect and ready to join. Having seen Bob Marino's post on jointing with the TS55 ( I can't find it, so please add a link to this post if you can) I placed the two new straight edges together and placed the rail so that the kerf of the blade cut right down the center of the joint, taking a little off each board. If your blade isn't quite at 90 degrees it doesn't matter. What one side giveth the other takes away! The joints were perfection. You have to attach the board that isn't under the rail to your assembly table. I did this by screwing a block to the end of my table and using pocket screws on the block, I screwed up into the underside of the Ipe at one end.

It was fantastic to get such good results on the job site without a jointer or table saw. The craftsman I admire looked on and I could see the cogs turning. He had never seen Festool but like any experienced woodworker he immediately understood its utility. A long conversation ensued as I demonstrated the Domino and ended with me giving him my 2009 catalogue.

The next day, having read it overnight, he asked me to just build the box with my Festools. He now knew how the Dominoes would fortify and align the miter joint. The box had to have a slight taper to it to fit perfectly. Just 1/4" over eight feet, just mark and place the rail where you want to cut - Easy. I put a 5 degree bevel on the top edge to ensure a snug fit to the ceiling.

Precise, perfect, fast and with unique capability, the system added to my billable hours and my currency on the job site. Oh, and no dust!

Thanks to Bob Marino for showing us the jointing technique on this site and many others who have accelerated my learning curve on the Domino.
Note the sipo tenons revealed when the boards were cut to length and the 1' foam for doing all the cuts on top of the table.
 
Roger,

Did you put Domino tenons in the 45 degree cut beveled edges to help join the boards forming the 3-sided box?

If no, how did you align the parts for glue-up of the long bevel cut edges?

Dave R.
 
Dave Ronyak said:
Roger,

Did you put Domino tenons in the 45 degree cut beveled edges to help join the boards forming the 3-sided box?

If no, how did you align the parts for glue-up?

Dave R.

Dave,
Absolutely! I used the usual method for 4/4 miter joints. Depth of cut set to shallowest. Fence set to shallowest. I glued in 5X30 dominoes and then trimmed them a little shorter with a Dozuki saw. Alignment pins on the Domino set the location for the first mortise at narrow width on all boards. I put narrow mortises on the bottom board at roughly 12" apart on pencil lines and wider ones on the mating surfaces. I used a rubber mallet to persuade them together and than used K body clamps  where needed. The dominoes seemed to negate the need for miter clamps and the joints closed tightly.

Steve-co,
Thanks for the link.

Roger
 
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