Got heavy cutting burn on hardwood and ... Need suggestion

[limi]

Hi,

I start to do woodworking for several months(still a beginner). I own a TS55 and previously I only cut a little plywoods with it.

Today I try to cut a thick red oak( 4" x 50"). I used the TS55 to cut two straight edges and then a middle cut to split it to two 2"x50".

Got several problems:
1. hard to cut with a guide rail for such narrow long straight edge cut.
2. the wood burned a lot..... when I applied the middle cut.  I feel the saw can hardly move forward.
3. I can see the even blade teeth has been burnt to black.... What's wrong?
4. I got two kickbacks when I started the cutting - what's the problem could be? I know my guide rail is too short, so I have to hold the circular saw by hand and push forward slowly when start.

Any suggestion will be very helpful to me!

Thanks a lot.

 

[Nigel]

[welcome] limi,

The burning would usually be caused by the saw moving through the wood too slowly or a dull blade or both.

If you are cutting a narrow piece the rail needs to be firmly fixed and unable to move during the cut.

If I understand you correctly you cutting a 4 inch thick piece of oak in half by cutting from both sides?

This type of full depth cut puts a lot of stress on the saw and the blade and the TS55 will probably trip out fairly quickly except maybe with brand new blade . Did the saw trip?

If you're having to push hard on the saw you're going to get burning and overload.

As for kickback at the start of the cut.I would guess that you're not at full plunge depth before entering the wood or you're rail is too short . You need enough rail overhanging at start and the end.

Hope this is some help.

 

[mouppe]

Apart from the too-short rail, you're probably not doing anything wrong. That's a very tough cut for the TS55. Really a bandsaw would be best for this task. But, maybe you could ease things up by making a succession of deeper passes?

I'd use a hand plane to clean up the burnt edge.

 

[peter halle]

Using a rip style blade would also help.

Peter

 

[semenza]

Hi limi,

Welcome to the FOG !  [smile]

How thick is the piece you were cutting, not quite sure from the description.

My guess is that you are using the Fine blade that came with your TS55. That blade is not designed for such a cut. With the rip  blade it should be no trouble at all.

Seth

 

[awdriven]

The new rip blade gives a good quality cut that needs only minimal cleanup.

 

[limi]

Thanks all the replies

I understand the situation now!

1. I need to use a rip blade
2. my depth set is too shallow
3. my hardword stock is too thick - almost 1 3/4" thick.
4. I used speed 6, I think it could be too high

Will do more tries! ;D

 

[Mike Goetzke]

Hi,

I start to do woodworking for several months(still a beginner). I own a TS55 and previously I only cut a little plywoods with it.

Today I try to cut a thick red oak( 4" x 50"). I used the TS55 to cut two straight edges and then a middle cut to split it to two 2"x50".

Got several problems:
1. hard to cut with a guide rail for such narrow long straight edge cut.
2. the wood burned a lot..... when I applied the middle cut.  I feel the saw can hardly move forward.
3. I can see the even blade teeth has been burnt to black.... What's wrong?
4. I got two kickbacks when I started the cutting - what's the problem could be? I know my guide rail is too short, so I have to hold the circular saw by hand and push forward slowly when start.

Any suggestion will be very helpful to me!

Thanks a lot.

I agree you need a rip blade with fewer teeth (and thin kerf will help if one is available for your saw, I cut 8/4 stock all the time on my track saw system with a Freud 24th thin kerf blade on my Makita 5008MGA CS) , but, more concerning is #4 - your kick backs. This is why I don't care for front plunge saws. Make sure you fully plunge the saw before touching/cutting any wood.

Good luck,

Mike

 

[meatman]

Hi limi
I agree about needing a rip blade, also it is a very good idea when ripping Oak to drive a wedge in behind the cut this stops the movement in the timber and stops it from closing on the back of your saw even with your riving knife in place.

Some timber is grown on slopes and forms what we call compression timber down one side of the tree trunk, this stops the tree falling over. When you cut into this type of wood it can have two effects, either bending away from the saw like a banana or to tighten up on th saw as you cut. I think this what has happened to you. Just drive a wedge in behind the cut as you go.
I hope this helps.
Meatman

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Limi

Meatman is right but also check this...

If you are cutting along the length of a relatively narrow (4") piece of stock there is a good chance that the stock will move relative the guide rail (and saw) during the cut. This lateral movement may also cause burning and kickback. Nigel is right to suggest clamping the rail.

Peter

 

[Tinker]

There are 3 rubber strips on bottom of the guide rail.  If wood is too narrow for all 3 strips to come into contact, use a piece of backup wood behind the piece you are cutting, this allows the rail to rest evenly on the wood and your saw will stay level.  It is possible to use the TS 55 on bare wood to make cuts without the guide rail underneath.  It takes a little more skill to do that.  If your rail is too short and it is affordable to get a longer rail, or another rail of a different length and get the attachment bars to bolt the two rails together, it might be a way for you to find more satisfaction with your new toys.  Other responders have given good advise as well.  I wish you luck in finding a solution. 
Tinker