Guide rail alignment jig

[johne]

I wanted to make an adjustable rail alignment jig and this is what it turned out to be.

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You can set the jig by using a tape measure (no need to mark anything on the panel) by sliding the block part along the rail
Hook the end of the rail on the side of the panel and you re good to go

 

[johne]

This is the block assembly
It is locked by an M6 bolt (no need for tools just finger tight applies enough force for the block to be locked solid on the rail)

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[johne]

It also comes in handy when you need to duplicate a previously cut panel
Just adjust the jig to the width of the panel and cut away.

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For this jig i made the rail 1.25m long. You can of course make any size you want

 

[bryan1982]

very nice i like it all you need to do now is insert a measurement ruler and that would be awesome then no tape

cheers

bryan

 

[Eli]

Very Cool. I'll take mine in clear anodised aluminium, with a tape rule on top. Also, I want a squeeze and release clamp to set it.  ;D

I'll have the lawyers call you about patents.  8)

 

[johne]

bryan1982,

I am having some rulers printed out on adhesive vinyl. Not sure how accurately i can position them though.
I ll put up a pic if i get em and let you know if it works.

Eli,

Clear anodised aluminium is in the making. Colours available on request. Looking forward to the patent meeting.  ;D

 

[bryan1982]

get a rule that is used on a panel saw

 

[bryan1982]

check that out
http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/in..._19246_20000&zenid=66eejq897o6342muroh3088os6

 

[johne]

Bryan,

Good idea. I could route a channel for the ruler in the top of the rail.

If the rule has elongated holes you could even adjust it after making a test cut

Something like this

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[bryan1982]

love it

 

[bryan1982]

all i need now is a ts 55 and a guid rail and im set to go

 

[Eli]

Good place to use up those broken tape measures.

 

[mhch]

Nice, specially the tiny details.

2 points:
1- I assume you clamp the guide rail to the board to avoid any slipping while
    removing the jig (necessary to avoid the long arm being cut).
2- wood is subject to movement. A metal based version is recommended.

Next step is to ensure squareness of the perpendicular cuts

 

[johne]

Nice, specially the tiny details.

2 points:
1- I assume you clamp the guide rail to the board to avoid any slipping while
    removing the jig (necessary to avoid the long arm being cut).
2- wood is subject to movement. A metal based version is recommended.

Next step is to ensure squareness of the perpendicular cuts

Mhch,

1- The jig just fits snugly on the guide rail not too tight so it's easy to lift of without moving the guide rail
    (i don t always clamp the rail it stays in place by itself mostly)

2- Metal version would be better but i don t have a metal shop I am not to worried about wood movement since any movement will be along the width of the 
    pieces and not so much the length.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

     Excellent!   Well thought out design, and nicely made.  I have been reading everyones ideas for making this type of device.  I plan to do something similar and your's  has definitely given me some additional concepts.  I like the way you have the ends match up to the board and rail.  The embedded tape would do away with the extra measuring step. But you will have to watch out for wood movement. Using the separate tape will eliminate the problem of the wood moving  because the jig will always be set to the separate tape or rule.  
     I still am thinking of using Incra scale track for the arm and your jig has put new ways of doing that in my head.  

         Nice pics too!

Seth

             SIX

 

[nickao]

So nice. Excellent idea and pictures. Are you going to shellac or poly the parts. I find when I don't I always get them filthy and they do not clean up. Now I always just shellac them with spray shellac and they clean up easyily and look new for a long time.

Again I love this jig!

Nickao

 

[johne]

Did some tests after fine tuning it a bit. I used my tape ruler and a magnifying glass to set the jigs exactly to 300 mm.
Did 3 subsequent cuts on some scrap MDF.
All three pieces were completely parallel and came out at about 300.2mm. A difference of 0.2mm between input and output (about 0.008 Inch or 1/128 inch, not sure about the conversion, correct me if i calculated wrong) So all in all i am happy with this thing.
I ll mess with it some more to see if i can get the 0.2mm difference out

Semenza,
I made it to use with my tape ruler because there may be differences between rulers and this way i use the same measuring device for everyting. But an embedded ruler looks like a nice addition

Nickao,
Good idea about finishing it with poly or shellac, i hadn t thought about that yet.

 

[mhch]

I ll mess with it some more to see if i can get the 0.2mm difference out

May be a little rail or workpiece slip which happened to me a few times (hence my clamping remark)
until I decided to work differently

I made it to use with my tape ruler because there may be differences between rulers and this way i use the same measuring device for everyting. But an embedded ruler looks like a nice addition

Can also use metal rulers attached to the wood arm (provided it is wide enough, i.e. 25mm or so).
But again, I would personnaly use Incra tracks for such a device.

 

[johne]

Mhch,

The 0.2mm difference was the same with all 3 cuts, I made the blocks 0.2mm too long. I ll sand a bit off em and then it should be ok.
Even though 0.2mm is an acceptable tolerance IMO. I normally dont measure that close just did it for testing.
Metal rulers could work and the arm IS actually 25mm lol.(good guess)
I ll look at those Incra tracks too, thx

 

[UCLA Fan]

Great Jig! I agree that modifying the setup with the Incra system would be very nice. If you were to use their "incremental track" you would have the ultimate in repeatability! That being said, the cost would also be on the ultimate side :-[  I think the setup with Maple hardwood would be almost as stable. A good compromise might be standard t-track. It would be reasonable in terms of cost and certainly be more durable. The imbedded tape wood look very cool and be convenient, but for ultimate accuracy I agree with Johne one should measure with the same tape or even better use push sticks for the initial "measurement." As the saying goes "mark - DON'T measure". On that note, once the first jig is setup use it to set the other jig. This will eliminate any further measuring error and assure a parallel (and repeatable) cut. Hmmmmm it occurs to me that if you were to add a small lip to the end of the block at the cut line it would increase the accuracy of the "jig" to measure any existing part, set the width and then take the jig directly to the piece to be cut - no measuring tape at all - sweet!

Thanks for the pics very nice job!

Frank