Guide Rail T-Square

[rmwarren]

This idea is not original but I got motivated to make it a few days ago while reading the thread on Woodpecker's framing square and seeing how Seth used it for cross-cutting plywood.

Today I stopped work right at 5:00, walked out to the work-shed and had it completed by 6:30. Granted, I am set up for simple metalworking and had everything I needed on hand.

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The 2 legs are each 600mm long. Total materials needed are 4' of 1/4" by 2" aluminum flat bar, a dozen M6 cap screws, leftover rail clips from my Rip-Dogs adventure (the secret ingredient...) and a couple t-nuts. I drilled the through holes to 1/4" (6.35mm) to give the M6 screw a tiny bit of wiggle room so I could tweak the alignment to square the "T" and snug the leg against the guide rail.

It wouldn't be too hard to replace the the guide rail clips with something shop made, but that might take nearly as much time to make as the rest of the parts together.

Have not tested it but I can't see any reason it would not be dead-on square with a bit of tweaking.

Thanks for looking.

RMW

 

[Johncarlo]

Looks good, why buy when you can build it yourself.

 

[rmwarren]

Looks good, why buy when you can build it yourself.

Well, I do still need to buy the big, precise square to make sure this is perfectly square...  [scratch chin] [doh]

RMW

 

[JeromeM]

Looks good, why buy when you can build it yourself.

Well, I do still need to buy the big, precise square to make sure this is perfectly square...  [scratch chin] [doh]

RMW

Won't simple geometry be faster?  [eek] I assume you have accurate measuring tools.

 

[andvari]

The gear used to check the square will cost more than the Woodpecker square. However once you have the surface block, angle block, micrometer, dial gauge etc. you'll be set up to make precision jigs plus be able to set up any machines you have accurately.

 

[semenza]

Just for the record it was Gpowers not me that showed the square clamped across the plywood.

Seth

 

[jmbfestool]

It's why I want the wood pecker square for my guide rail

An idea I was thinking about of making is like yours but wood  [smile] cus da is wa I work with see how it goes and hope the guy down the road can make me a metal one.

If you come up with something good and well priced I would be interested.

I have always had the idea of a tape measure attached to the square.    So the tape measure is built onto the square with a metal piece on the end which is permantly over hanging on the end but does lift up out the way if needed.   The tape is calibrated to the splinter guard cut so the tape would need cutting in length at least the width of the rail.       You have a metal arrow which indicates the length from the end of the board to the splinter guard on the rail. This arrow(marker ) can be adjust to calibrate it.      So I can simply pick up the rail with the square attached bring it to the end of the board the tape with the lip hooks the board and I just drag the rail along till it measure what I want!  

For site work this would save a lot of time!    It saves getting your tape out and pencil all the time to hook over your board then mark where your cut going to be to then place the tape back and pick up your saw and rail.   A square eliminates one for the tape measure markings cus you just tick the length and your square cuts it square but a tape measure attached eliminates any markings.  

Jmb

 

[rmwarren]

I like the idea of the tape on the square, the adjustable marker would not be too hard to add either. When I have time I may add that to this one and then post another photo.

Thanks for the idea.

RMW

It's why I want the wood pecker square for my guide rail

An idea I was thinking about of making is like yours but wood  [smile] cus da is aa I work with see how it goes and hope the guy down the road can make me a metal one.

If you come up with something good and well priced I would be interested.

I have always had the idea of a tape measure attached to the square.    So the tape measure is built onto the square with a metal piece on the end which is permantly over hanging on the end but does lift up out the way if needed.   The tape is calibrated to the splinter guard cut so the tape would need cutting in length at least the width of the rail.       You have a metal arrow which indicates the length from the end of the board to the splinter guard on the rail. This arrow(marker ) can be adjust to calibrate it.      So I can si ply pick up the rail with the square attached bring it to the end of the board the tape with the lip hooks the board and I just drag the rail along till it measure what I want! 

For site work this would save a lot of time!    It saves getting your tape out and pencil all the time to hook over your board then mark where your cut going to be to then place the tape back and pick up your saw and rail.   A square eliminates one for the tape measure markings cus you just tick the length and your square cuts it square but a tape measure attached eliminates any markings.   

Jmb

 

[rmwarren]

Yea, I NEED those too, in addition to the Woodpecker square...

Now if I can just figure out how to get the UPS man to hide it in the bushes to avoid "troubling" my wife with details she does not need to know.  [scratch chin] [scratch chin] [scratch chin]

The gear used to check the square will cost more than the Woodpecker square. However once you have the surface block, angle block, micrometer, dial gauge etc. you'll be set up to make precision jigs plus be able to set up any machines you have accurately.

 

[greg mann]

I work with some of the most precise measuring tools in the metalcutting industry but I question the need for a precision square to check your unit out. What really matters is the RESULTS you get. Take a representative sample of MDF and create a pristine edge to reference your square off. Make a square cut to that one, flip it over so that you are referencing off the same edge but with the part upside down to the first cut and make another cut. Measure the length of the reference edge and the one opposite. They should be the same length. If not, correct out 1/2 the error and try again. It is virtually without cost and has the advantage of reflecting what you really are getting as opposed to what you think you will get by setting your square against a master. Roger Savatteri calls this 'good setup hygiene', i.e., checking what you get versus checking the setup only.

 

[jmbfestool]

JUST incase I might not of made my self very clear to what I was thinking of! Here are some sketch up drawings! 

I believe this would be a very handy tool! Or in my HEAD it seems like it would be very handy! Maybe in practice it might not work as well I dont know!  I would like to think it will!

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The tape even has a parking bay to protect it!
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[rmwarren]

Greg,

I guess tongue-in-cheek humor does not translate when typed out. My NEED for many tools is mostly driven by the fact I just like nice tools, hence I convince myself I NEED them for some reason.  [embarassed] This is evidenced by drawers full of red Starrett boxes, tools often in pristine condition.

I am familiar with the "1/2 the error method" & have used it from time to time. I like the "good setup hygiene" concept & will have to Google Mr. Savatteri as I am unfamiliar with him/his wisdom.

Thanks,

RMW

I work with some of the most precise measuring tools in the metalcutting industry but I question the need for a precision square to check your unit out. What really matters is the RESULTS you get. Take a representative sample of MDF and create a pristine edge to reference your square off. Make a square cut to that one, flip it over so that you are referencing off the same edge but with the part upside down to the first cut and make another cut. Measure the length of the reference edge and the one opposite. They should be the same length. If not, correct out 1/2 the error and try again. It is virtually without cost and has the advantage of reflecting what you really are getting as opposed to what you think you will get by setting your square against a master. Roger Savatteri calls this 'good setup hygiene', i.e., checking what you get versus checking the setup only.

 

[rmwarren]

Got it, I did not understand at first.

What I was thinking was mounting a self-adhesive scale/rule to the "T" and then using a block with a lip as a stop. The block would slide in a groove cut parallel to the scale,with a t-nut and knob to lock it in place.

The scale/rule is show in yellow.

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The downside to my method is it is limited to the length of the "T". Your idea does not have that limitation.

RMW

JUST incase I might not of made my self very clear to what I was thinking of! Here are some sketch up drawings! 

I believe this would be a very handy tool! Or in my HEAD it seems like it would be very handy! Maybe in practice it might not work as well I dont know!  I would like to think it will!

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The tape even has a parking bay to protect it!
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[jmbfestool]

Got it, I did not understand at first.

What I was thinking was mounting a self-adhesive scale/rule to the "T" and then using a block with a lip as a stop. The block would slide in a groove cut parallel to the scale,with a t-nut and knob to lock it in place.

The scale/rule is show in yellow.

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The downside to my method is it is limited to the length of the "T". Your idea does not have that limitation.

RMW

JUST incase I might not of made my self very clear to what I was thinking of! Here are some sketch up drawings!  

I believe this would be a very handy tool! Or in my HEAD it seems like it would be very handy! Maybe in practice it might not work as well I dont know!  I would like to think it will!

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The tape even has a parking bay to protect it!
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Well your idea works with the shorter lengths and my idea does NOT       My idea works with longer lengths but your idea does NOT!    Adding both together will allow it to bridge the gap!

I had already thought of this and already thought of something similar to what you have drawn but my dilemma was I had a blind spot ( a area where neither would cover) because unlike your square I drew a triangle so at the point at the far end your idea and my idea wouldnt cover!   I didnt want to  redesign it to how your doing it which is a L-shape  unless its made out of a solid piece  because I dont like the fact it has a joint which can get knocked out of square  a traingle made out of solid piece OR with joints will be far more substantial and hold up better against knocks!    

you see im trying to think SITE work not work shop where you can be more carefull!

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

I had anther idea which is more ''SOLID''  appose to the tape measure idea  so you can still get longer lengths but not as long as a tape measure.   You know like the UG-arm extensions you have this piece which slides out and you flip this bit of metal which acts like a stop you can add that but a smaller scale to your square which will allow an extended stop.

JMB

 

[jmbfestool]

Just thought I post it in action lol! well kinda in action lol with rail attached

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[Alan m]

i am thinking of trying this with my fold up layout square.
that thing is massive . like the one posted in a different thread a while back .
it would be a lot easier to use on site  and to transport.
might have to come up with a way to create a lip and to join onto the rail.

 

[rmwarren]

Alan, You can use the clips from your rip dogs to mount to the rail, just drill them and tap your layout square.

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i am thinking of trying this with my fold up layout square.
that thing is massive . like the one posted in a different thread a while back .
it would be a lot easier to use on site  and to transport.
might have to come up with a way to create a lip and to join onto the rail.

 

[Alan m]

Alan, You can use the clips from your rip dogs to mount to the rail, just drill them and tap your layout square.

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i am thinking of trying this with my fold up layout square.
that thing is massive . like the one posted in a different thread a while back .
it would be a lot easier to use on site  and to transport.
might have to come up with a way to create a lip and to join onto the rail.

i dont think i would drill them because i would rather have a seperate system so that the brackets are ready for use on the mft . having to un screw the would really anoy me and i wouldnt end up using them.
if you were able to have a pin on the square so that your brackets worked the same as on the mft it would be great. that way swaping set ups would be seamless.

i might have to buy another set

 

[rmwarren]

Alan, You can use the clips from your rip dogs to mount to the rail, just drill them and tap your layout square.

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i am thinking of trying this with my fold up layout square.
that thing is massive . like the one posted in a different thread a while back .
it would be a lot easier to use on site  and to transport.
might have to come up with a way to create a lip and to join onto the rail.

i dont think i would drill them because i would rather have a seperate system so that the brackets are ready for use on the mft . having to un screw the would really anoy me and i wouldnt end up using them.
if you were able to have a pin on the square so that your brackets worked the same as on the mft it would be great. that way swaping set ups would be seamless.

i might have to buy another set

Dang - I never thought of that, great idea. I will play with that next time I am tinkering.

RMW