Guitar #12 (my first commission)

fritter63

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Just finished (and delivered) my twelfth guitar, and my first commission. Special treat, as this was for my Uncle Jon who was largely responsible for getting me into woodworking as an adult (with a well place highly motivational copy of FWW when I first met him 30 years ago).

It was a total surprise for him too!

Claro Walnut tonewood, Curly Koa accents, Black walnut neck, Carbon fiber D-tube truss rod and axial brace, Mother-of-Pearl inlays, Indian Rosewood fretboard and bridge

 

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Wow, that is beautiful.

The photo of you with your Uncle should be on the cover of FWW with
a nice write-up inside about how he got you started in woodworking.
 
[member=10223]fritter63[/member] I have nothing but admiration (I'm lying ... I'm a little jealous too).

EXCELLENT!!!
 
Very nice! I really like the neck and back walnut match....I've put the Gotoh 510's on all my acoustics and love them. What are you using for finish and how many coats if I might ask
 
I don't know much about guitars except that they are typically examples of very fine woodworking. Your certainly is.

Another thing that is typical is the sound hole is in the middle of the body. In that regard yours is atypical.
Can you talk about that and learn me sompthin?
 
Thanks all for the kind words.

[member=41086]Vondawg[/member] : 3 coats of Z-Poxy poor filler (level sanded in between each), 6 coats of lacquer sealer (using Deft for now till I run out of cans), then level sand @ 400 grit, repeat the lacquer sealer until you have no more "shinier" after level sanding", then 3 coats of lacquer (using Colortone product now -http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an...upplies/ColorTone_Aerosol_Guitar_Lacquer.html), then two weeks (Minimum with that product only!) cure time, then level sand by hand at 600 grit, then buffing with medium and fine Menzerna compounds. Final level sanding and buffing only takes about 3 hours with this approach (sealer mucho easier to level than lacquer).

Full online course available from Robbie (O'Brien Guitars): (sample)

[member=297]Michael Kellough[/member] : the worst place for a hole on a guitar is right in line with the strings where there is 170 lbs of force, this is why all guitars eventually collapse in the center and need a neck reset. I put mine on the side (ala Ovation guitars starting in the 70s) to keep the top stronger. Then I put a carbon fiber axial brace (tube) between the headlock and the tailback to further take that stress. The soundhole on the side has the added benefit of allowing that brace to be hidden. Note also that my neck is floated, articulated, and fully adjustable for future neck resets. The fretboard is cantilevered like an arch top or violin, further reducing downward pressure on the top.
 
Great work! As a serious amateur guitarist this is really cool to see. As a beginning woodworker I also hope to build instruments someday. I mostly play classical and arch tops so a little different. Curious how you use festool in your lutherie.
 
woodvkk said:
Great work! As a serious amateur guitarist this is really cool to see. As a beginning woodworker I also hope to build instruments someday. I mostly play classical and arch tops so a little different. Curious how you use festool in your lutherie.

TS 55 - jointing the tops and backs
MFK 700 - used in my binding jig to route the ledges for binding and purfling
CXS - drilling holes (such as for the end pin jack)
RO 90 - sanding, esp during finish (interface pad is great for curved surfaces)
Systainers - mucho tool storage (beyond festool)
CT-36 - sucking it all up.
 
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