Hello, just seeking some advice here as I know there are a few Hammer owners in the FOG. I have recently been looking into the Hammer jointer planer combo machines and I'm really leaning towards the A3-41 with silent power. However, just recently I found a used silent power A3-31 with the mortising table, digital hand wheel, mobility kit, and 16" extension. The machine is practically brand new and the seller wants $3,200 which I feel is a fair price. I'd like to know what other experienced Hammer owners think. Has anyone upgraded from the A3-31 to the A3-41? How well do the extension tables compensate for the shorter bed length? Has anyone experienced any serious limitations with the decreased width? Is the additional 11cm worth the difference in cost? What is the verdict on the mortising table? I have both Dominos and love them, the mortising table really doesn't seem like a selling point. Thanks in advance for any response.
Hammer A3-31 vs Hammer A3-41 ADVICE SOUGHT
- Thread starter morgan
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Wooden Skye
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You may want to ask your questions on the Hammer/felder forum as well.
http://hammerfelderowners.com/index.php
http://hammerfelderowners.com/index.php
junk731
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While I no longer own a Hammer A3-31 it was a great first machine. You have to decide on how wide the work is your doing and if the machine will feel your needs. Also at that price you could buy it sell the mortizing attachment. Try the machine, if it works with what you do keep it, if not sell it recover all your money and buy the bigger A3-41 or look into the Felder AD741.
John
John
I own a Hammer A3-31 with the standard cutter head. I don't own or have a need for the mortising unit and I told myself I would buy the extension tables at a later time if I found I needed the increased performance of a longer table. No far, I haven't felt the need to buy the extension tables. The digital gauge is a must and instead of the mobility kit, i bought some nice locking casters and mounted them directly to the four "feet" of the base.
I like the compactness and performance of the Hammer A3-31 but I have to admit, it is super loud. I'm tempted to install a Byrd cutter head in the future or sell mine and upgrade to a silent power unit.
As far as size limitations go, I have never found the need to joint or plane anything wider than 12". Maybe I just know in the back of my mind the size limitations of my equipment and when I'm designing a project, I avoid anything wider than 12". When I do wide glue-ups for tops they are typically in the 20" range anyway so the A3-41 isn't going to help.
Mike
I like the compactness and performance of the Hammer A3-31 but I have to admit, it is super loud. I'm tempted to install a Byrd cutter head in the future or sell mine and upgrade to a silent power unit.
As far as size limitations go, I have never found the need to joint or plane anything wider than 12". Maybe I just know in the back of my mind the size limitations of my equipment and when I'm designing a project, I avoid anything wider than 12". When I do wide glue-ups for tops they are typically in the 20" range anyway so the A3-41 isn't going to help.
Mike
Thanks for the replies guys. The price of the used A3-31 is making this a really difficult decision.
So John, do you have a jointer now? If so what is it?
And Mike, I'd love to see some pics of the casters you installed. Did you do it to save money or would you consider it to be an improvement over the factory kit?
I'm still tempted to buy the 41 just "in case". I probably wouldn't use it to capacity much but I'd love to try. I just went to the wood pile and out of about 1000 bf of lumber, I only had 2 pieces of maple and 1 piece of purple heart that are wider than 12". The 41 might cause me to pursue those wider boards though [big grin]
So John, do you have a jointer now? If so what is it?
And Mike, I'd love to see some pics of the casters you installed. Did you do it to save money or would you consider it to be an improvement over the factory kit?
I'm still tempted to buy the 41 just "in case". I probably wouldn't use it to capacity much but I'd love to try. I just went to the wood pile and out of about 1000 bf of lumber, I only had 2 pieces of maple and 1 piece of purple heart that are wider than 12". The 41 might cause me to pursue those wider boards though [big grin]
I own a HAMMER A3-31 unit. I improved my HAMMER mobility solution because I felt the design they had executed was flawed deeply! Firstly trying to balance a 600 pound piece of machine on small footprint set of rollers is not easy. Now as you balance the unit notice that the size of the pivot plate prevents a 90 degree turn from being possible. In a small shop a 90 degree turn is VERY nice to have available. Now balance, steer and propel the unit to where you want it. After I struggled with sheer weight, limited maneuverability and stress on my back I modified my HAMMER mobility kit. I retained the original long axle and needle bearing nylon wheels that were part of the HAMMER kit. Then after deciding I would never buy the mortiser unit I concluded that I could mount a plate for holding slides. The slides in turn have a set of casters mounted to them with bottle jack setting on top of the caster mounting plate. As the jack is extended it pushes on a vector plate that is mounted to the A3-31. This action lifts the machine away from the casters. Now the unit can be moved about safely and easy on the back ly. It is nice with hydraulic setup as there is no strain on the back and when the unit is in place and the jack is released the unit is as stable as the HAMMER design team could ever want! When I decide to move the unit back just three pumps on the jack handle and I can turn it on a dime and in controlled fashion stow my unit out of the work area. Highly recommend the silent cutter head if you have the choice. I love my HAMMER and now it does not even HURT to love my A3-31. I did a you tube video on my setup.
Thanks everyone for their replies. I talked to the felder rep lately, he asked me if I needed the 16" capacity. I was quick to reply that I probably didn't but I definitely wanted it. I am pretty sure I am going to order a new A3-41. I was just a little taken back when he mentioned the eta would be late August. Not being a patient person, this is going to hurt.
Have you looked at MiniMax?
They don't have the fancy brochures or web site but they are very similar in quality (depending on who you talk to, some rate MiniMax a little higher)
MiniMax Machines are usually stocked in the U.S. and shipped from Georgia
http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=4&Itemid=35
They don't have the fancy brochures or web site but they are very similar in quality (depending on who you talk to, some rate MiniMax a little higher)
MiniMax Machines are usually stocked in the U.S. and shipped from Georgia
http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=4&Itemid=35
SittingElf
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It will be worth it to get the A3-41 now. If you get the 31, you'll be happy right up until you suddenly have a wide board to joint and plane! [tongue]morgan said:
It will be absolutely worth the wait! This machine is individually made in Austia and has to be shipped directly. You will freak out at how well it is delivered to your door. Outstanding packing on a pallet. Felder will keep you updated throughout the process. Lots of paperwork! [blink]
You didn't mention if you ordered with the Silent Partner head. If you can at ALL afford it, DO IT! It is an AWESOME cutter, and MUCH quieter than blades.
As others have mentioned the digital wheel is also a MUST, and if your DC is 4", you may want to order an adapter for the 5" port on the A3. (I don't have the link handy, but you can buy them online cheap in the USA).
To get up and running quickly, you may also want to decide on power plug and outlet (220V) and be ready to install it on your J/P's arrival. A longer cord may be needed as well. Make sure you have sufficient gauge.
Ask your questions here, or on the site listed in my signature. Lots of help available!
One last thing... (shhhhh....), "hammer" your sales rep. They have the authorization to discount accessories and supplies off of the listed price. It's best to negotiate on the initial order for those. (Extensions, digi-wheel, etc...)
Cheers,
Frank
morgan - I have the cu300 which is a combination machine with the 12" jointer/planer. MiniMax uses the Tersa blade system which makes it extremely easy to change blades - less than 5 minutes for a set and there are no adjustments to be made
I *do not believe* that MiniMax offers a "spiral head" from the factory - but like most tools, the opinions on spiral heads are all over the place
The advantage of the Tersa Head along with the ease in changing the blades - is you can use different blades for different materials - from carbide, chrome steel to high speed steel, etc. Each type of blade has advantages and disadvantages - you should figure out what blade material would be best for you. Also, if you were to hit a nail or chip a Tersa blade - you can easily slide it over a tad so the next blade will clean up the ridge left by the nick
blade types
http://www.tersaknives.com/HSS-High-Speed-Steel_c_1.html
blade changing video
I read a post on Sawmill Creek where somebody had a spiral head completely fragment on him because he put some sort of cutting block through the planer with the end grain facing up and something happened causing a chain reaction which ruined the head. I can't fine the post at the moment but it was fairly recent and an interesting read
ps - MiniMax machines are individually made in Italy and shipped directly. I guess MiniMax can afford to have a local supply chain and Hammer can't...
I *do not believe* that MiniMax offers a "spiral head" from the factory - but like most tools, the opinions on spiral heads are all over the place
The advantage of the Tersa Head along with the ease in changing the blades - is you can use different blades for different materials - from carbide, chrome steel to high speed steel, etc. Each type of blade has advantages and disadvantages - you should figure out what blade material would be best for you. Also, if you were to hit a nail or chip a Tersa blade - you can easily slide it over a tad so the next blade will clean up the ridge left by the nick
blade types
http://www.tersaknives.com/HSS-High-Speed-Steel_c_1.html
blade changing video
I read a post on Sawmill Creek where somebody had a spiral head completely fragment on him because he put some sort of cutting block through the planer with the end grain facing up and something happened causing a chain reaction which ruined the head. I can't fine the post at the moment but it was fairly recent and an interesting read
ps - MiniMax machines are individually made in Italy and shipped directly. I guess MiniMax can afford to have a local supply chain and Hammer can't...
