Help finishing my late neighbors cabinet

[CarlsonCarpentry]

I’ve had a great neighbor for as long as I can remember. He was a retired gentleman who I’ve into woodworking with his free time. He was always very generous with his knowledge and always passed on scraps and extra wood to me.
I am a door and window carpenter, not a woodworker. He gifted me this cabinet a while ago when he was diagnosed. I never got around to doing anything with it, but in light of his recent passing I would like to finish it.
I need a couple things clarified before I feel comfortable doing that.

1. What is this cabinet built for? Drawers? What are the racks inside?
If it is drawers and drawers with slides or drawers they just are boxes fit into those openings.
I have a lot of scrap of this African Mahogany that can be used for drawer faces.

2. What type of hinges is this best suited for? The face frame is slotted and biscuited but not glued so I have room to work. The cabinet faces are cut to fit inside the opening already with about 1/8 gap all around.

3. What finish? I usually just oil my projects down.. but I’m sure there is something better here.

Any help much appreciated.

 

[Rob-GB]

Looks to me to be for drawer pullouts running on the frames for paperwork or small tools perhaps. Very old/traditional way to make a drawer cabinet.
The photo seems to show the door upside down, bottom rail of the door is usually the wider one.
Small brass butt hinges would suit, align the top of the top hinge with the top of the panel and the bottom of the bottom hinge with the lower edge of the panel.
Nothing wrong with an oil finish if that is what you are comfortable using.

Rob.

 

[sancho57]

Like Rob said very nice traditionally made cabinet. Could be used for a number of thing , sorting paper for your computer, storing sanding paper etc. Id use Mohawk finishes wipe on stain to even the color out. Let it dry thoroughly go over it with their top coat. I found their top coat was a bit pricey. Very strong and durable but a bit pricey. If you can find it in qts and brush it on use the its. Gal was a bit pricey.

Bc I couldt find a it in qt size (I was in Oregon chasing stain down) ad I already had some GF endure WB. I used that. It will work if you let the OB stain dry thoroughly.

Make a couple of sacrificial pieces stained at the same time as test pieces to make sure the OB stain has completely dried or You'll run into problems. It does have to be dry. I set mine out in the hot sun for a day and Half to make sure it was dry, then allplied the finish with no problems.

To bad you live so far Im in the OC. If you cant find the mohawk stain or finish give these guys a call. Looks lke they got laquer on sale. heyll help you with what you need. Stain and finishing is what they do.
https://woodrepairproducts.com

 

[Rob Z]

That looks similar to the way my Grandfather built framework for  drawers in cabinets and under benches.  Could you remove the other door to show a picture of the full width?

If I had something like that I would be tempted to finish the drawer inserts and use it for small tools such as chisels, squares and so forth.

That's nice you get to keep something made by your neighbor.

 

[Mark Katz]

I'm a fan of these no-mortise hinges. The wraparound design makes it really easy to position the hinges so that they are directly in line with each other for smooth operation. I haven't had the same luck with butt hinges and mortising. 
https://www.rockler.com/ball-tip-full-back-to-back-wrap-around-inset-hinges?sid=V9146

They are made by many companies with many finishes and tip styles available.

 

[Bob D.]

Reminds me of an old pie safe.

 

[CarlsonCarpentry]

Looks to me to be for drawer pullouts running on the frames for paperwork or small tools perhaps. Very old/traditional way to make a drawer cabinet.
The photo seems to show the door upside down, bottom rail of the door is usually the wider one.
Small brass butt hinges would suit, align the top of the top hinge with the top of the panel and the bottom of the bottom hinge with the lower edge of the panel.
Nothing wrong with an oil finish if that is what you are comfortable using.

Rob.

Thanks for the insight. Yes I did put the door upside down for the photo. Oops.
Those hinges look like they would work fine.
Thanks

 

[CarlsonCarpentry]

Like Rob said very nice traditionally made cabinet. Could be used for a number of thing , sorting paper for your computer, storing sanding paper etc. Id use Mohawk finishes wipe on stain to even the color out. Let it dry thoroughly go over it with their top coat. I found their top coat was a bit pricey. Very strong and durable but a bit pricey. If you can find it in qts and brush it on use the its. Gal was a bit pricey.

Bc I couldt find a it in qt size (I was in Oregon chasing stain down) ad I already had some GF endure WB. I used that. It will work if you let the OB stain dry thoroughly.

Make a couple of sacrificial pieces stained at the same time as test pieces to make sure the OB stain has completely dried or You'll run into problems. It does have to be dry. I set mine out in the hot sun for a day and Half to make sure it was dry, then allplied the finish with no problems.

To bad you live so far Im in the OC. If you cant find the mohawk stain or finish give these guys a call. Looks lke they got laquer on sale. heyll help you with what you need. Stain and finishing is what they do.
https://woodrepairproducts.com

Thanks for the information and the hesds up.
I make it to the OC a couple times a year that’s it.

 

[CarlsonCarpentry]

I'm a fan of these no-mortise hinges. The wraparound design makes it really easy to position the hinges so that they are directly in line with each other for smooth operation. I haven't had the same luck with butt hinges and mortising. 
https://www.rockler.com/ball-tip-full-back-to-back-wrap-around-inset-hinges?sid=V9146

They are made by many companies with many finishes and tip styles available.

I’ll check woodcraft local. I like these. Thanks