Help on Painting Kitchen Cabinets

[jwaite550]

Good morning.  My daughter purchased a house and the kitchen cabinets were trashed.  I am building new ones for her out of UV coated plywood for Christmas.  The boxes (UV plywood) and face frames (maple) are done. She wants the doors (maple and 1/4" MDF center panel) and face frames (maple) painted white.  I went to Sherwin Williams and bought a good primer and paint. I bought an Earlex 5500 sprayer which will also be a first for me spraying a finish.

Not knowing what I am really doing, I have to adhere 1/4" painted panels on the side of 2 uv coated cabinet sides.  Should I use a glue or contact cement to stick the panels to the cabinet.  (I assume on either I should roughen up the UV coating?)

Also, she has 3 boys and should I put some kind of clear coat on the latex paint to keep it clean?  If so, what should I use.

Thank you very much for your help.  Jeff

 

[tjbnwi]

Getting a panel to stick to a UV coated factory finished panel with glue (or any adhesive) is a lesson in frustration. You need to sand the coating off completely. Next time order a few sheets of ply, finished one side only.

I'll let others who have the Earlex comment on that aspect of the project.

Tom

 

[jwaite550]

Thank you Tom, I will sand it off.  I didn't know you could get plywood finished on just one side.  Learning every day.

 

[Goz]

With the right paint, you shouldn't need a top coat. I've used SW ProClassic in semi gloss before with good success. Another paint that is often recommended on the PaintTalk forum is SW Multi-Surface Acrylic from their Pro Industrial line. I haven't used it yet, but it's supposed to be even a little more durable than Pro Classic, but still easy to work with.

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[tjbnwi]

Thank you Tom, I will sand it off.  I didn't know you could get plywood finished on just one side.  Learning every day.

If you have a good plywood supplier near you (you list IL. as your location but don't narrow that down), they may have finished one side, MDF face sheet other side, paints up well and is flatter than "normal" ply.

Tom

 

[jwaite550]

With the right paint, you shouldn't need a top coat. I've used SW ProClassic in semi gloss before with good success. Another paint that is often recommended on the PaintTalk forum is SW Multi-Surface Acrylic from their Pro Industrial line. I haven't used it yet, but it's supposed to be even a little more durable than Pro Classic, but still easy to work with.

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SW ProClassic semi gloss is what he sold me.  Thank you for your help.

 

[jwaite550]

Thank you Tom, I will sand it off.  I didn't know you could get plywood finished on just one side.  Learning every day.

If you have a good plywood supplier near you (you list IL. as your location but don't narrow that down), they may have finished one side, MDF face sheet other side, paints up well and is flatter than "normal" ply.

Tom

I wasn't aware of that either.  There is a distributer in Arthur, IL.  I will check them out.  Thanks again.

 

[JCLP]

Hi Jeff,
I have trying spraying Pro Classic with an Earlex 5500 and it doesn't work well. As Pro Classic is a very thick paint you would have to thin it way too much. Anything more then 10% is not recommended. You may want to try SW Kem Aqua. It's a really thin paint and does spray with the Earlex5500. I have the 6003 as well, and was not able to spray Pro Classic well, even thinning it by 20%. My 5500 is now used for stains and polyurethane top coats. My 6003 will be upgraded to the Fuji Q5 Platinum in the very near future.
Cheers,
JC

 

[jwaite550]

Hi Jeff,
I have trying spraying Pro Classic with an Earlex 5500 and it doesn't work well. As Pro Classic is a very thick paint you would have to thin it way too much. Anything more then 10% is not recommended. You may want to try SW Kem Aqua. It's a really thin paint and does spray with the Earlex5500. I have the 6003 as well, and was not able to spray Pro Classic well, even thinning it by 20%. My 5500 is now used for stains and polyurethane top coats. My 6003 will be upgraded to the Fuji Q5 Platinum in the very near future.
Cheers,
JC

Thanks JC  I guess I will have to brush it on.  Hope it doesn't leave brush marks to bad.

 

[mleny77]

I just finished a job using 3/4" UV finished panels from Menards for the carcass. On the exposed ends panels I sanded off the UV finish with the RO125 and used 80 grit sandpaper. Then used 1/4" unfinished birch ply and stained to match the front. I used contact cement and a few 25ga pins to attach it to the cabinet. I haven't tried spaying paint with my 5500 yet but let me know how it works if you do try. I know you have to use the largest tip on the gun for thicker paint.

 

[tiralie]

Thanks JC  I guess I will have to brush it on.  Hope it doesn't leave brush marks to bad.

I think JC did use a brush and got a good smooth coat and would recommend a 3/8" nap microfiber roller as well. I would also recommend using BM Advance. Much better for cabinets and apparently it smooths out after being brushed and rolled on. Takes a long time dry but it's tough paint.
Tim

 

[Goz]

Hi Jeff,
I have trying spraying Pro Classic with an Earlex 5500 and it doesn't work well. As Pro Classic is a very thick paint you would have to thin it way too much. Anything more then 10% is not recommended. You may want to try SW Kem Aqua. It's a really thin paint and does spray with the Earlex5500. I have the 6003 as well, and was not able to spray Pro Classic well, even thinning it by 20%. My 5500 is now used for stains and polyurethane top coats. My 6003 will be upgraded to the Fuji Q5 Platinum in the very near future.
Cheers,
JC

Thanks JC  I guess I will have to brush it on.  Hope it doesn't leave brush marks to bad.

Un-thinned, I find it will leave light brush strokes. I would recommend adding Floetrol or XIM extender if that is a concern. You may want to test on some scrap first.

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[tjbnwi]

Use the Mohair roller sleeves.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...ries/mini_roller_systems/?Nao=18&N=1248991414

Tom

 

[JCLP]

Use the Mohair roller sleeves.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...ries/mini_roller_systems/?Nao=18&N=1248991414

Tom

Can't find mohair here. I use Purdy Premier micofiber 3/8" nap. Produces a flawless surface, if you apply the right amount of paint.

 

[JCLP]

Well I just sprayed some Lenmar Dura Laq Waterborne acrylic with my 3 stage and 1.3mil needle. Goes on really nice. We'll know in 30 minutes how it levels out.
Cheers,
JC

 

[jwaite550]

Wow, thank you all so much!  What a great group of people here on FOG!  I appreciate everything from all of you!
I have a friend picking up the items you mentioned and I will be trying them out in a few days.  Thanks again!

 

[antss]

+1 for floetrol with latex.  Penetrol for oil paint.

I'd suggest using a 3/4 (or thicker) end panel which can be applied with screws to the end of the run.

1/4"ers are amateur hour and cheap looking in my view. 

 

[bkharman]

Just for sake of the thread... floetrol doesn't thin paint. It is an extender to let the paint take longer to "lay down". It is actually thicker than most latex paints. Thinning and extending are two different things.

Cheers. Bryan.

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[jwaite550]

+1 for floetrol with latex.  Penetrol for oil paint.

I'd suggest using a 3/4 (or thicker) end panel which can be applied with screws to the end of the run.

1/4"ers are amateur hour and cheap looking in my view.

I did pick up the floetrol last night and some of the rollers suggested by JCLP .  Thank you for your suggestion.  I can see that now, of course after I built the cabinets and have no room to add the thicker sides.  I am very amateur as this is my first attempt at cabinets, but with all of your help and a lot of help from Erock,  I am muddling through them.

 

[bkharman]

+1 for floetrol with latex.  Penetrol for oil paint.

I'd suggest using a 3/4 (or thicker) end panel which can be applied with screws to the end of the run.

1/4"ers are amateur hour and cheap looking in my view.

I did pick up the floetrol last night and some of the rollers suggested by JCLP .  Thank you for your suggestion.  I can see that now, of course after I built the cabinets and have no room to add the thicker sides.  I am very amateur as this is my first attempt at cabinets, but with all of your help and a lot of help from Erock,  I am muddling through them.

I think what people are saying is to make a false door to attach to the sides. I made an end panel for an island recently to do just that.  Here are a few shots of it.

Cheers. Bryan.

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