High end flooring w/ Festool

[FlobeySolo]

Simply stunning.

 

[ShawnRussell]

Stunning work.

 

[Jaybolishes]

High end goes without saying, that looks awesome!

 

[Makkus]

Really great work! Almost too nice to step on [big grin]

May I ask what kind of finish are you using and how so you apply it?

Mark

 

[Walk On Wood]

Really great work! Almost too nice to step on [big grin]

May I ask what kind of finish are you using and how so you apply it?

Mark

Sure! The patterned foyer and the patterned great room were both Glitsa Multi-Cote satin, which i use  about 95% of the time.  I truly believe it is the best flooring finish available.  I apply with a brush and high quality 3/8" roller (usually Wooster Pro-dooz or Purdy White Dove)

The hand beveled wide plank floor was finished with Waterlox (per customer request), 2 coats of Original, then final coat satin.  This was applied with a brush and lambs wool.

 

[Makkus]

[thanks]

 

[Walk On Wood]

I finally got some pics of the house from the first post  after completion:

 

[Nippychippy]

It looks great well done

 

[dltflt]

Those are some beautiful floors !

 

[Walk On Wood]

Thanks guys

 

[Billedis]

A true artisan at work.  Awesome

 

[stvrowe]

Nicely done!

 

[TooManytoys]

That is beautiful work!

 

[blakjak220]

Here's another floor i just finished up.  The 55 did some more sweet cutting for me, but all of the beveling was done by hand with scrapers. I also used my ro90 and dts400 for some of the smaller areas.  This is white oak, some wormy, some knotty. 7-10" planks, 1-10' long.  Engineered, glued down to concrete.  The room that is a border only is 4"', also hand beveled.

That looks awesome..... I noticed this was engineered wood and glued directly to concrete... is that the preferred method for putting wood on the slab? I've seen so many other methods (like putting plywood subfloor down then gluing and nailing down) but that one seems like the simplest. But I guess that only works with Engineered and not solid wood..

Thanks

 

[sjalloq]

Hi there,

just seen your updated pictures and it looks fantastic.  I've been looking into doing a bedroom floor in a similar colour and have so far been looking at using walnut.  Your pictures have made me change my mind as I love quartersawn oak.  Can you describe the stain you used?  I'm assuming that the MultiKote is a clear varnish.

Anyone in the UK have any suggestions for floor varnishes I should look at?  Not really done much research yet but it looks like MultiKote is not a product we can get.

Cheers.

 

[Walk On Wood]

Here's another floor i just finished up.  The 55 did some more sweet cutting for me, but all of the beveling was done by hand with scrapers. I also used my ro90 and dts400 for some of the smaller areas.  This is white oak, some wormy, some knotty. 7-10" planks, 1-10' long.  Engineered, glued down to concrete.  The room that is a border only is 4"', also hand beveled.

That looks awesome..... I noticed this was engineered wood and glued directly to concrete... is that the preferred method for putting wood on the slab? I've seen so many other methods (like putting plywood subfloor down then gluing and nailing down) but that one seems like the simplest. But I guess that only works with Engineered and not solid wood..

Thanks

Thanks! You are correct. Engineered wood directly glued or plywood glued/nailed with solid wood over are both great methods for installing over a slab.  Gluing solid wood directly is not a recommended technique.

 

[Walk On Wood]

Hi there,

just seen your updated pictures and it looks fantastic.  I've been looking into doing a bedroom floor in a similar colour and have so far been looking at using walnut.  Your pictures have made me change my mind as I love quartersawn oak.  Can you describe the stain you used?  I'm assuming that the MultiKote is a clear varnish.

Anyone in the UK have any suggestions for floor varnishes I should look at?  Not really done much research yet but it looks like MultiKote is not a product we can get.

Cheers.

The stain I used was a 50/50 mix of Duraseal Rosewood and Neutral.  Im not sure of the availability of the stain or the finish in the UK.  Walnut makes for a beautiful floor, but is very soft and dents easily.  Quarter sawn oak is a great choice that stains up great.

 

[nickao]

The preferred method is what he asked, not what can be done and the preferred method is NEVER glued to concrete.

Engineered to concrete is  prone to failure more than any other floor I have ever dealt with. And definitely don't do it below grade.

I always tried my best to talk a client out of it. Plywood down first and real 3/4" on top is always better. Luckily I get to stay in the shop and don't go on site any longer. I hated being the guy that dealt with the clients when the failures happened. Yeah gluing on crete is done a lot and yes it works most of the time, but its not the preferred way and not even close to the best way.

 

[Walk On Wood]

In my experience, nearly all glue down failures can be traced back to either moisture or installer error, whether it be improper prep, improper glueing technique, lack of expansion, etc.  Moisture will destroy a plywood and solid floor just as easily.  How many glue down floors have you seen that fail "for no reason"?  Don't get me wrong, direct gluing is rarely my method of choice either.  But the floor shown above was 5mm white oak over architectural grade plywood, glued over a cured, radiant heated slab using Bostiks Best.  BB is one of the most difficult glues i know of to work with, but offers a superior bond.