Homemade guide rail connectors (not your typical ones)

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Svar

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Jul 22, 2012
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I needed to join two rails and checked out connectors. Wow! $32 for a pair of metal bars with holes in them. You’ve got to be kidding. Profit margin must be over 90% on that thing .

I stopped by the hardware store to pick up a piece of metal about 12x6 mm. They didn’t carry that, but instead (as it turned out later fortunately) had one 12.7x3.2mm. I then realized I could do better than the stock part.

I often read complaints that joined rails don’t stay aligned together. Festool warns not to over tighten the screws, in fact, boasts flat heads to prevent just that. And the connectors are about only Festool item that has bad reviews on Amazon. No wonder they can’t be secured well; steel screws dig into soft aluminum rail.

My solution is to make the connector consisting of two thinner 3.2 mm parts (see picture). The top one has threaded holes with Allen screws (M6, 6mm long). The bottom one has non through (1/3 deep) cone shaped holes that align with the screws. These holes help to fully engage the threads and prevent lateral sliding of two parts. As you tighten the screws the two pieces are pushed apart and firmly press against inside of the slot distributing pressure over large area. You can tighten them very well.

While fitting the connectors I discovered that two t-slots of the guide rail have different width by about 0.3 mm and had to file the bars a bit :-(.

I tested the setup. After joining two rails I moved, rotated, flipped, lifted by one end, and kicked them around. Checked again with a straight edge – perfect.

P.S. Festool, if you like the idea e-mail me a thank you card attached to a banknote or a green tool of your choice :-)  [poke]

[attachimg=#]
 
Yep, I like the look of that and the allen key heads.I may have to try that if you don't mind?
 
At first I thought why? really?  Then I read this part " The bottom one has non through (1/3 deep) cone shaped holes that align with the screws." and the light turned on and I said brilliant he has created a wedge affect to really grab the entire slot.  With this design you are distributing pressure on the bottom of the slot and the top of the slot. This should be rock solid. Extremely good concept and design.  It is simple, and it is a large improvement.

Festool should be all over this. I will be making one as soon as time allows. I guess you could easily make it longer with an additional hole or two if desired.

I owe you a beer.  [thumbs up]
 
I will definitely try this myself!! This has been a frustrating aspect of the rail design for me as I have dimpled all my rails trying to tighten them and then still am able to knock them out of alignment. Festool should purchase your idea or you need to market this!
 
If you could somehow add two half attached rivets to the design to keep the halves together but still movable vertically it would make these a serious selling article.

What I mean is that the rivet would be welded to the bottom bar, go through the top one and keep them together with a conical top cap while still allowing the top bar to move vertically with the tightening of the screws.
 
Great idea Svar!  If you wanted to to semi-attach the 2 rails together as Reiska suggested,  you could drill a couple holes in one of the bars and epoxy in a couple of thin rare-earth magnets. That would hold them together for ease of assembly but still allow movement.  It looks like it works great as it is though.

John
 
Reiska said:
If you could somehow add two half attached rivets to the design to keep the halves together but still movable vertically it would make these a serious selling article.

What I mean is that the rivet would be welded to the bottom bar, go through the top one and keep them together with a conical top cap while still allowing the top bar to move vertically with the tightening of the screws.
Click to expand...

If you store the connectors in the rail there is no need.
 
Oh, no! Makita beat me to that!  [doh] I won’t get rich!  [crying]
But are Makita’s handmade, and come with file marks left by a skillful craftsman?!   [big grin]

Thank you all for the comments. Holding screws could be added like so…
[attachimg=#]

Also, when not stored in the rail, set screws could be tightened lightly and they won’t get lost. Pin/screw in the middle will hold parts together.
Now I need to build a nice tiny systainer to store the connectors in.
 
Svar, If you're inclined to make another set, please let me know, I will send you a thank you card and a bank note. 
 
This may be a little too far over the top but how about holes in the inside channel so that you could tighten both sets of connecters from the top?
 
fshanno said:
This may be a little too far over the top but how about holes in the inside channel so that you could tighten both sets of connecters from the top?
Click to expand...

I like this idea too, that would make it easier to keep them aligned  while tightening.

Seth
 
Reviving an old thread.  Great great idea! Made a set tonite!
babehy6y.jpg
 
Do you think these would work acceptably if made from T6061 aluminum instead of steel? I know the Festool ones are steel but I'd really like to stay away from using a dissimilar metal if aluminum would work? Also it would be easier to work with than steel.

I know it wouldn't be AS strong, but the question is "would it be strong ENOUGH"?
 
I thought about aluminum but felt the set screws would strip out to easy if over tightened. That and my hardware store didn't stock1/8"x1/2" aluminum. I still had to grind that size down a bit. I am going to either paint these or clear coat them. I am not worried about dissimilar materials for a piece that won't be used that much.
 
Dissimilar metals are not issue as long as they are not in the presence of an electrolyte (e.g. water).  You won't see any galvanic corrosion as long as you keep the rails dry while joined with the steel connector.
 
As far as I remember Makita Supplying this type of connector with their track saw. I personally found it fiddly keeping to parts together.
 
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