How do you add a capability to do angled cuts to your table?

[JSB]

I've been taking a close look at Steve Jones' design for a cut table and think I will use his design, but have been wondering how one might integrate into that table the capacity to use the saw to do angled cuts.  I'm thinking some sort of franken-table, using the edge profiles for the MFT3 and the associated miter gauge.

Any thoughts or examples of how this might be done?

 

[score0matic]

Jsb

There are two main issues with mitered cuts on cutting tables.

1. If you are content to limit yourself to a few select angles 60, 45, 30, 22.5.  and do not care to take advantage of the full width of the table  you could use your rail and a protractor to map the angles you want and drill 20 mm holes (edit: for the various angles you use). 

Heres how to get the right position for  the hole;  install a sharpened screw at the far end of the slot in the underside of your rail.   butt the left side of your rail (edit Near side) against your regular 90 deg. stop and pivot the rail to map your angles.  Tap the far end (where the sharpened screw is secured) against  the table to mark the location for the hole.    (You cant use a regular straight edge as the pivot point is left edge of your rail and the stop is at the center of the underside rail.)

Install a Qwas rail dog at the far end of your rail and drop it in the desired angles hole.  If you use this consider placing a hole at the 90 deg and use it as your primary stop it has several other advantages ( you can use your rail to rout square, and stopped, rabbits and datos.  Make sure you secure your work piece under the rail though ;D)

2. If you plan on angled cuts for the full width of the sheet you will need a longer rail.  You can get away with the 1900 for a ts55 on a 45deg cut.  The procedure is the same as above but rather than moving your rail in an arc move it so the far end runs along the back edge mapping the angles along it.   

TRIPLE CHECK THE ANGLES BEFORE YOU DRILL!!!!! also you will want at least 51" wide table if you use the dogs for your 90 deg stop as well.  There will be times when you rip down mdf or melimine

 

[score0matic]

one other thing your stops will no longer be accurate on angled cuts.

Thanks Craig

 

[JSB]

Score'O, that's very helpful and I appreciate the reply.

I'm thinking that since I won't be trying to do cross cuts of some angle other than 90 degrees with a whole sheet it may be better to have a cut table dedicated to 90 degrees and then, once the sheets are broken down, use the MFT3 to do the angled stuff.

 

[score0matic]

Jsb

For the most part i find you rarely need to cut wide angles.

Thanks Craig

 

[Steve Jones]

I had a few requirement for angle cuts, none of them required a full width cut, so I would simply mark my cut and drop a rail on it anywhere on the table 9in other words not using the fence).

I have seen the trick of sticking razor blades into the cut line then sliding the rail against the blade to get very accurate positioning, but modern disposable razors don't work - however I use a pair of marking knives for the same purpose.