how do you feel about rotozip
- Thread starter Alan m
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greenMonster
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almost never use it,though it's handy to cut out recesses in sheetrock. ie recessed lights
Half heartedly tried cutting wood once, smoked up a mess promptly quit.
Made the edge of the tile I was trying to cut nice and shiny.
Then again, I really didn't make much effort. Mostly got it for quickly zipping out sheetrock, but like I said...makes a serious mess
Half heartedly tried cutting wood once, smoked up a mess promptly quit.
Made the edge of the tile I was trying to cut nice and shiny.
Then again, I really didn't make much effort. Mostly got it for quickly zipping out sheetrock, but like I said...makes a serious mess
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I have had a Roto Zip for 10 years. I wonder where it is.
Peter
Peter
Sparktrician
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There have been times that the RotoZip was the only tool that I had that did what I needed, when I needed it done. It cut neatly enough, used carefully, but blew drywall and wood dust all over the customer's premises, which I had to clean up. In the same situation today, I'd be using my Fein MultiMaster with the CT22 and be cleaned up and out of there far sooner.
[smile]
[smile]
Ken Nagrod
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The various Rotozip tools have their place in a well rounded tool collection. I have the RZ2000 (I believe is the correct number) and the DR1 (specific drywall router) and I'm going to get the Rotozip saw which seems better than the attachment for the RZ2000. You really have to use them in different situations with different blades and bits to realize their usefulness and limitations.
Jesse Cloud
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Peter Halle said:
[thumbs up] Well said Peter!
The last time I used mine was to make decorative cuts in the 1/4" panels of the doors on a wardrobe I built for my niece's wedding present.
The cuts were in the form of cattails and reeds to provide ventilation in a decorative pattern. I made the cuts using a template curve; did not do it freehand after trying that route as an experiment on scrap material.
In that case, it was a good choice. I suppose a small-base trim router would have worked as well, if I had one.
The cuts were in the form of cattails and reeds to provide ventilation in a decorative pattern. I made the cuts using a template curve; did not do it freehand after trying that route as an experiment on scrap material.
In that case, it was a good choice. I suppose a small-base trim router would have worked as well, if I had one.
Holzhacker
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I also have one in my basement somewhere. I think I might know where it is. The bits don't hold up well for what I consider 'real' work. DIY homeowner stuff they are probably ok. The dust and noise level are also an issue. About the only thing I pull it out for is tile work.
As others have said, consider one of the multimaster versions instead.
As others have said, consider one of the multimaster versions instead.
AlexThePalex
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Alan m said:
Maybe you should take that as an indication of where it's true strength lies.
Deansocial
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what sort of til does it claim to cut?
as for noise level, tile cutters aint quiet are they
as for noise level, tile cutters aint quiet are they
Alex said:
I hardly ever use mine for tile. I would rather dill and use a diamond blade in a jig for accurate cuts. The Rotozip is great for a fast cut out of a box in sheetrock......and a great way to make dust. It can do tile but hard to do much more than a few small cuts. I would rather pull out my 10" wet table saw... for much of any work in tile.
Cheers,
Steve
Hi Alan,
The drywall specific version (DR01-) is a must if you are going to cut drywall. it was an enclosed case system which will not allow the fine dust to enter into the housing and burn out the motor. Otherwise, if using any other Rotozip, you will prematurely shorten the lifespan of the tool you use.
The benefits to the Rotozip is that it is very aggressive and fast, so if small,moderate re-modeling is being performed it keeps the job pace going. The Fein multimaster takes much longer to cut out that kind of hole but is "cleaner."
Using a Rotozip on plywood is also much, much quicker as well with the Rotozip, whereas i find the Mulitmaster to be more precise and a great help on flush cuts and more detailed work. neither tool is rated or very functional on any kind of porcelain cutting.
I own them both and find they both have a place when I am doing reno-work on my house. For about a 100 bucks its hard to beat the practicality of a Rotozip properly fitted for a job.
Ok-that's my .02 worth. God bless in your decision.
David
The drywall specific version (DR01-) is a must if you are going to cut drywall. it was an enclosed case system which will not allow the fine dust to enter into the housing and burn out the motor. Otherwise, if using any other Rotozip, you will prematurely shorten the lifespan of the tool you use.
The benefits to the Rotozip is that it is very aggressive and fast, so if small,moderate re-modeling is being performed it keeps the job pace going. The Fein multimaster takes much longer to cut out that kind of hole but is "cleaner."
Using a Rotozip on plywood is also much, much quicker as well with the Rotozip, whereas i find the Mulitmaster to be more precise and a great help on flush cuts and more detailed work. neither tool is rated or very functional on any kind of porcelain cutting.
I own them both and find they both have a place when I am doing reno-work on my house. For about a 100 bucks its hard to beat the practicality of a Rotozip properly fitted for a job.
Ok-that's my .02 worth. God bless in your decision.
David
dwillis
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- Feb 21, 2008
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I find it's less expensive to let dust gather on the shop floor than on my Rotozip case [wink]. In fact I think I loaned it to my brother last year and haven't seen it since... Just don't find it very useful. I usually use the Fein tool for cutting holes in gypsum board, less dust, better cut, and a much less annoying sound.
It definitely has its place--mostly on the construction site; not in the shop.
Like some others have intimated, it is pretty much an indispensable tool to use if you hang drywall (with recess lights and outlets to cut outs as part of the job description) on a production level. The 1/8 pilot guide bits are specifically made for this and it saves a ton of time and increases the accuracy of any job (I don't care how good your are with a tape, drywall t-square & jab saw, you won't get as close and as quick as with the guide bit). Once you get the hang of it, you won't prematurely burn or break bits like you may at first. I can make it through a 150-200 sheet job with 2-3 bits. I bring it to any job where I am hanging more than 5 sheets.
Like some others have intimated, it is pretty much an indispensable tool to use if you hang drywall (with recess lights and outlets to cut outs as part of the job description) on a production level. The 1/8 pilot guide bits are specifically made for this and it saves a ton of time and increases the accuracy of any job (I don't care how good your are with a tape, drywall t-square & jab saw, you won't get as close and as quick as with the guide bit). Once you get the hang of it, you won't prematurely burn or break bits like you may at first. I can make it through a 150-200 sheet job with 2-3 bits. I bring it to any job where I am hanging more than 5 sheets.
