how has kapex held up

[glass1]

last year i bought the kapex but returned after the miter lock issues. I currently own the Milwaukee. I am now ready to get another saw. I am considering another stab at the kapex. Can anyone please tell me how it it has held up ? Pros Cons 

 

[mastercabman]

I did the same thing,but i did not get the Milwaukee.
I would also like to know about how everybody who's been working with the Kapex,how do you like it so far?
glass,why are you looking to get another saw? Are you adding or replacing?  How do you like the Milwaukee?

 

[bonesbr549]

I bought mine at the beginning and its been fine no issues. 

 

[glass1]

I am keeping the mil. Its great  capacity + accuracy but Like having two saws  if the kapex is good  than its weight ,quietness dust collection, and compactness would compel me.

 

[Forrest Anderson]

last year i bought the kapex but returned after the miter lock issues. I currently own the Milwaukee. I am now ready to get another saw. I am considering another stab at the kapex. Can anyone please tell me how it it has held up ? Pros Cons   

If you haven't read the thread, see Frank Pellow's poll entitled "Revisiting the Kapex problems -a new poll".

78 people responded, with 25 people (32%) saying "No problems at All works like a charm", and only 1 person saying that they had a problem that hadn't been fixed yet.

Forrest

 

[glass1]

so of the 35 who purchased the saw 25 had no problems (70%) and 10 (30%) had problems. this is just a poll, more detailed descriptions of the saws performance is what I am looking for. thx

 

[nclemmons]

Bought mine when it was released.  I had scraping issues show up in the fall.  Festool sent the replacement plate and with a five minute replacement, it's been going great since then.  Accuracy, variable speed, dust control, light weight.  I previously had a hitachi 8" slider that I had for 10+ years.  I've been very pleased. 

neil

 

[erikfsn]

I've had my Kapex for about a year now and it has held up well with moderate use. (average use perhaps 6 days a month and on those days maybe a few dozen cuts.)

I have had a problem or two, one time the laser cut on a blade blew out and Festool replaced it.
Another time a small end-cut flew back and shattered the plastic piece that holds the dust collecting shroud in place. Festool also repaired that.

These were minor problems however, and the saw has been a pleasure to use and I have no regrets purchasing it. In my experience it has been all the good things you read about the saw and none of the bad.

Erik

 

[danrush]

I picked up one of the first saws available last July.  Had the scraping issue, it was fixed, and no problems since.  I use the saw 5-6 days a week for interior trim work.  Mostly crown and associated build-up pieces.

Here are a few thoughts:  (again, from a traveling trimmer's perspective and in no particular order) 

Bevel adjustment:  outstanding! very accurate and easy to use.  Probably the most well thought out part of the saw. But why no detent stop at 22.5 degrees???

Miter adjustment:  Not so good.  The table, although properly tuned, is stiff and requires more muscle than should be necessary to move.  It is accurate, though.

Lasers:  The lasers are accurate, and rarely need adjustment, usually just after moving to another jobsite.  I could (and usually) do without them, and would much prefer a LED light to illuminate the table area.  (Lining up a laser mark on a pencil line doesn't work if you can't see the mark! )

Dust collection:  Very good.  I should define what I consider good.  No clouds of micro dust in the air.  After a full day of cutting hardwood crown, I may have a cup or two of course dust on the floor.  Dust free? No.  But certainly better than all the other saws I've tried.  ( I use a ct22 in the shop and a mini in the field with the same results.)

Miter gauge gizmo:  It sits on a shelf in my shop.  I'm sure it's helpful for some, just not this dinosaur. I'll live and die by my Starrett angle gauge.

Optional crown stops:  Ok, they work, and are probably as good as any on the market;  but I don't think they are as good as most shop built ( or field built ) I've seen or used.  They sit too far to the left and right of the blade and thus makes cutting small pieces (like returns) difficult, if not impossible. I know they are set so that when cutting greater than 45 angles, they are not damaged, but I would suggest a sliding stop that could be adjusted. ( like the sliding back stop on the saw for cutting bevels)

I would also like to see an index gauge or "memory" so that when I remove the crown stop to cut flat stock,  I could reinstall the crown stop to the exact position it was in previously to continue cutting crown without a lot of the fuss now required to correctly place the stop.

Back stops:  I often have to go from cutting crown to cutting flat stock on the bevel, and back again.  The current system for adjusting and/or removing the backstops for bevel cuts is cumbersome, at best. With the current system, the backstops slide out and become independent of the saw unit when not being used.  I've found the this can lead to damage to the aluminum rails, or simply misplacement on a hectic job.  I would much prefer a hinged or swing away stop.(like my Makita 1214) 

Portability:  I love the ergonomics and weight of this saw.  I move from site to site weekly, or more, and this saw has held up well.  Although I take care of my tools, I can not be accused of being overly cautious of an extra bump or bruise.  I believe this saw is built for work.

Blade guard:  Like every other saw I've owned, I had to modify the clear plastic blade guard to accept the large crown in the nested cutting position.  It seems to me that if a saw is advertised to be able to cut a crown at  " X " inches, then the blade guard should accept that size crown as well.  Most saws don't, and neither does the Kapex.

Some of the criticism may seem harsh, but I don't mean it to be.  I do like this saw, use it daily, and would buy it again.  I can't speak to the benefits of some of the other features, like the variable speed, hold down clamp, etc, but would recommend it to someone who uses a saw often and has to move a bit.

Just some thoughts, Dan

 

[mastercabman]

I picked up one of the first saws available last July.  Had the scraping issue, it was fixed, and no problems since.  I use the saw 5-6 days a week for interior trim work.  Mostly crown and associated build-up pieces.

Here are a few thoughts:  (again, from a traveling trimmer's perspective and in no particular order) 

Bevel adjustment:  outstanding! very accurate and easy to use.  Probably the most well thought out part of the saw. But why no detent stop at 22.5 degrees???

Miter adjustment:  Not so good.  The table, although properly tuned, is stiff and requires more muscle than should be necessary to move.   It is accurate, though.

Lasers:  The lasers are accurate, and rarely need adjustment, usually just after moving to another jobsite.  I could (and usually) do without them, and would much prefer a LED light to illuminate the table area.  (Lining up a laser mark on a pencil line doesn't work if you can't see the mark! )

Dust collection:  Very good.  I should define what I consider good.  No clouds of micro dust in the air.  After a full day of cutting hardwood crown, I may have a cup or two of course dust on the floor.  Dust free? No.  But certainly better than all the other saws I've tried.  ( I use a ct22 in the shop and a mini in the field with the same results.)

Miter gauge gizmo:  It sits on a shelf in my shop.  I'm sure it's helpful for some, just not this dinosaur. I'll live and die by my Starrett angle gauge.

Optional crown stops:  Ok, they work, and are probably as good as any on the market;  but I don't think they are as good as most shop built ( or field built ) I've seen or used.  They sit too far to the left and right of the blade and thus makes cutting small pieces (like returns) difficult, if not impossible. I know they are set so that when cutting greater than 45 angles, they are not damaged, but I would suggest a sliding stop that could be adjusted. ( like the sliding back stop on the saw for cutting bevels)

I would also like to see an index gauge or "memory" so that when I remove the crown stop to cut flat stock,  I could reinstall the crown stop to the exact position it was in previously to continue cutting crown without a lot of the fuss now required to correctly place the stop.

Back stops:  I often have to go from cutting crown to cutting flat stock on the bevel, and back again.  The current system for adjusting and/or removing the backstops for bevel cuts is cumbersome, at best. With the current system, the backstops slide out and become independent of the saw unit when not being used.  I've found the this can lead to damage to the aluminum rails, or simply misplacement on a hectic job.  I would much prefer a hinged or swing away stop.(like my Makita 1214) 

Portability:  I love the ergonomics and weight of this saw.  I move from site to site weekly, or more, and this saw has held up well.  Although I take care of my tools, I can not be accused of being overly cautious of an extra bump or bruise.  I believe this saw is built for work.

Blade guard:  Like every other saw I've owned, I had to modify the clear plastic blade guard to accept the large crown in the nested cutting position.  It seems to me that if a saw is advertised to be able to cut a crown at  " X " inches, then the blade guard should accept that size crown as well.  Most saws don't, and neither does the Kapex.

Some of the criticism may seem harsh, but I don't mean it to be.  I do like this saw, use it daily, and would buy it again.  I can't speak to the benefits of some of the other features, like the variable speed, hold down clamp, etc, but would recommend it to someone who uses a saw often and has to move a bit.

Just some thoughts, Dan

Dan, I pretty much felt the same way as you about the Kapex.

 

[vicc]

I agree with Dan; I am glad I bought it.