How Long Should Factory TS 75 Universal Blade Stay Sharp

[DrD]

First let me say I know this is subjective, depending upon a lot of factors.  Here's what I'm experiencing.  The TS75 is used to cut mostly 1/2" and 3/4" commercial ply, including some 12+ layer Baltic Birch ~ 95%; some 1/2" and 3/4" MDF and MDO ~ 5%, all with burn-free, smooth cut surfaces all around. 
Yesterday I cut some 3/4 walnut strips (ea ~19" long) for a DIY/Crafts project, and on each of the 4 strips, the surface under the Guide Rail was both burned and rough, while opposing surface was smooth and unburned.  Checked the blade, and there was minimal build-up, certainly not enough to warrant cleaning.
Just wondering if the small amount of cutting MDF/MDO could have dulled the blade.  If so, why was one of the cut surfaces burned and rough while the other was burn-free and smooth?
All suggestions appreciated.
DrD

 

[chrisrosenb]

MDF will dull a blade in a short amount of time. Glue in plywood will also dull a blade quickly, but not as fast as MDF will.

 

[Bob Wolfe]

You can't successfully rip with a half dull crosscut blade.
Use a ripping blade or a sharp multi-tooth blade  and go slow.

 

[John Broomall]

I had this problem with a TS75 and found that my blade was no longer parallel with the base. After readjusting things went back to normal. At this point I have used the blade for joining 20/25 table tops in pine. maple, and cherry. I'd say it's about due for a sharpening.

 

[DrD]

Thanks all for your responses.

[member=12516]Bob Wolfe[/member], thanks, I did not even think about the fact that I was ripping, but, indeed, I was.  So, there's a lot of not-so-good things here on the FOG about the Panther blade, and that since it is thicker than the Universal, one must either replace/readjust the Splinter Strip or use a dedicated Guide Rail for each of the 2 different kerf blades.  Not sure what to do about all this.

Most of the time the TS 75 is used for cross-cuts, but the capability to rip in grained wood is also needed.  What to you guys who switch back and forth between ripping and cross-cutting do regarding the Splinter Strip?

[member=21915]John Broomall[/member], so, adjusting the alignment of the blade got rid of the burning on one side of the cut issue?  I guess I'm not sure what causes burning.  I've noticed it in the past on the Kapex when cutting bowed and/or twisted wood, particularly pine 2 x stock.

Thanks,
DrD

 

[ear3]

If the blade has been dulled, you generally won't notice this while continuing to cut ply and MDF, but as soon as you switch to hardwood (and especially ripping), you notice it immediately.

I would suggest though an experimental cleaning just to make sure.  I've encountered before where it looks like not much build-up of gunk on the blade, but after brushing it off with a solvent the blade performs significantly better.

On the panther blade: I think it's worth it if you're ripping boards in excess of 6/4.  Just in case you don't already know, you can shift the splinterguard over a tad to rip a fresh edge, and don't have to replace the whole thing.  But yeah, I tend only to rip on the long, 3000mm rail, so I don't have to worry about chewing up the strip on the shorter rail I use for cross-cutting. 

 

[DrD]

Thanks [member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member].  Looks like another rail is in my future. 

As an aside, do you have any projects pending like your set build & ultimate tear-down?  Loved the photo-documentary on that!  Big fan.

DrD

 

[ear3]

Thanks [member=19075]DrD[/member] There's one on the horizon.  The artists I work with got a commission by a private collector to create a permanent installation in a what will essentially be an underground bunker, which will eventually be donated to the Cleveland Museum of Art.  They're excavating the site right now -- we're going to build the installation that goes inside in New York probably this summer and then ship it and reinstall on site.

Thanks [member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member].  Looks like another rail is in my future. 

As an aside, do you have any projects pending like your set build & ultimate tear-down?  Loved the photo-documentary on that!  Big fan.

DrD

 

[junk731]

I don't know from what you said how much you cut hardwood but tension in the wood, grain orientation, how the wood was dried and blade selection/condition can all can contribute to what you're seeing. Even cutting on table saw will produce similar effects IMHE. If the saw was really labouring during cut and wasn't being pinched by the board that to me would indicate a dull blade especially cutting walnut which is typically a pretty soft hardwood. The sanding stage will eliminate all of what you're seeing so not really a big concern.

John

 

[DrD]

[member=4907]kcufstoidi[/member] ,

Thanks for the reply.  Yup I took the pieces and sanded all sides - 120 thru 320 - and they are smooth and burn mark free; amazing who quickly the sanding was accomplished with the ETS 150/3.

I removed the blade, and the inside surface - which contributed to the burning - was all "gunked" up with what appears to be MDF gradeaux, the other side of the blade is basically clean.  So today I'll soak and thoroughly clean that blade and my Kapex blade as well, as I've cut some MDF on it recently.

Thanks again,

DrD