How should I trim/paint this?

bkharman

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Jul 1, 2013
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I am wrapping up my MIL's kitchen and need some advice. The case and base trim is all bright white but the cabinets are Downey white (similar to antique white). I need to run a price of base with a return in it to finish the cabinet ends, but am unsure of the best way to get them both painted appropriately, but not look weird.

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I am thinking that I need to trim out part of the base to install a "corner block" or whatever the common name is and the run the other trim in the other color along the cab base. What color should that block be?

The island I just wrapped the base on two sides and made furniture feet to complete it out. Here are some of the island and some perimeter cabs as well.

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Cheers. Bryan.

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I'd clean the cab side, finish it as you did the other cabinets, no base trim at all. The cabinet sits well on the floor, it will be self trimmed.

Tom
 
    If you do add trim you can cut space for a corner block or just cope the piece. If you cope you won't need to worry about which color the block is.

  I would cope the piece and paint the same color as the cabinet. If it is painted the other color it will stand out.

Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
    If you do add trim you can cut space for a corner block or just cope the piece. If you cope you won't need to worry about which color the block is.

  I would cope the piece and paint the same color as the cabinet. If it is painted the other color it will stand out.

Seth

I thought about coping the one cut and then painting like you say Seth, but didn't know what those two colors would look like against earth other through the cope.

Might cut it long, see what it looks like and decide then.

Cheers!  Bryan.

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tjbnwi said:
I'd clean the cab side, finish it as you did the other cabinets, no base trim at all. The cabinet sits well on the floor, it will be self trimmed.

Tom

Thanks Tom. Not sure if I can do that as it has about a ½" gap in some parts where the floor dead ends against the cab. I suppose I could put a quarter round or similar down if need be.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Cheers. Bryan.

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I'd cope the cabinet color into the wall trim and call it a day. A plinth block of sorts would look the most professional but with it being larger to accommodate the bases dying into it, it would pull your eye to a transition you really want people to gloss over.

I've done a few cherry peninsulas like that and your eye really doesn't pick it up.

Edit- Your furniture feet look awesome btw. Pretty slick idea to make them as an applied mounding.
 
rizzoa13 said:
I'd cope the cabinet color into the wall trim and call it a day. A plinth block of sorts would look the most professional but with it being larger to accommodate the bases dying into it, it would pull your eye to a transition you really want people to gloss over.

I've done a few cherry peninsulas like that and your eye really doesn't pick it up.

Edit- Your furniture feet look awesome btw. Pretty slick idea to make them as an applied mounding.

Thanks!  I think this would be the simplest way to get it across, if she complains, I will just ask her what she wants.

I am going to roll out a member project on the feet and the rest of the kitchen work sometime in the next week. I do feel like the 10 feet of 1x6 poplar and some time was the "right thing to do". Amazing what less than $20.00 can do for a project!

Cheers. Bryan.

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bkharman said:
tjbnwi said:
I'd clean the cab side, finish it as you did the other cabinets, no base trim at all. The cabinet sits well on the floor, it will be self trimmed.

Tom

Thanks Tom. Not sure if I can do that as it has about a ½" gap in some parts where the floor dead ends against the cab. I suppose I could put a quarter round or similar down if need be.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Base shoe---not quarter round.

Tom
 
rizzoa13 said:
I'd cope the cabinet color into the wall trim and call it a day. A plinth block of sorts would look the most professional but with it being larger to accommodate the bases dying into it, it would pull your eye to a transition you really want people to gloss over.

I've done a few cherry peninsulas like that and your eye really doesn't pick it up.

Edit- Your furniture feet look awesome btw. Pretty slick idea to make them as an applied mounding.

    Yes, exactly why I would skip the block. Also the block will put which ever color on  both sides of the transition. The cope will keep the two paint colors in the respective matching locations.

    I am also thinking you will get some transition masking because this looks like a corner that will probably end up with a trash can, extra chair, stool or something in it.

    Bryan I see what you are getting at with the colors being similar but different. You don't want it to look like a match that didn't quite happen. It would be better if the colors were more different.

Seth
 
One other thing I was thinking was to paint the existing wall trim (the one piece in the picture) the same color of the cabinet. Where it dead ends into the door casing would show the contrast.

Thoughts? 

Cheers. Bryan.

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Even slicker would be to have a piece of furniture or something along that wall to hide the base for a bit. Go in from one side with the cabinet color and out from the other with the trim color.
 
In the first picture I see a garbage bin. If that's the corner for the garbage bin I'd glue a sheet of stainless steel on the cabinet end.
Robust and easy to clean.

And stainless steel is already a part of the design in the kitchen (fridge and oven).
You could actually do the same with the cabinet end at the oven....if approved by "she who must be obeyed"

I can't see from the pictures if there's any other cabinet ends to be trimmed/painted(?)

Kind regards
Henrik
 
tjbnwi said:
I'd clean the cab side, finish it as you did the other cabinets...
.

Agreed, that cabinet side needs to be refinished.

tjbnwi said:
Base shoe---not quarter round.

Yes a base shoe is much better, quarter round looks very dated. Preferably a colonial pattern if you can find it. If you must use a quarter round, use as small as possible. I would probably just paint a small top beveled batten that is thick enough to fill the space between the floor and the cabinet side

bkharman said:
One other thing I was thinking was to paint the existing wall trim (the one piece in the picture) the same color of the cabinet. Where it dead ends into the door casing would show the contrast.

Thoughts? 

I wouldn't, unless you change all the trim to match the kitchen cabinet color. The way the trim dead ends into the cabinet side creates the break and the trim style and cabinet style are different enough to signal to anyone who cares about this stuff that it was intentional. I know they are close in colour but once you start down that road, you wind up repainting all the trim.
Unless you have a lot of time and it really bothers you or your MIL I wouldn't go there.
Tim
 
Ok. So I went with the coping and it came out great. The two shades are very different when looking at them on my assembly table, with a ton of light but once they were in place, it isn't that noticeable with the various lighting and shadows.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I agree that the dresses end panels would be best, but she talked me out of it. She said she wanted the island to stand out more and this was her choice. I think it came out pretty good!

(Flash and non-flash photos below. Hard to tell any difference either way.)

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Cheers. Bryan.

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Looks good, but that casing needs to meet the floor, or is the photo exaggerating the space?
Tim
 
I would say leave it. 

The only way to fix it is squeeze a little cut off in there or recut a new piece. That casing appears it was put in ten or more years ago. I say that because of the large dent in the  casing 1/2 way up and coloration of it. If it's new casing it should of been replaced at that point and the gap should of been addressed then, upon install. Possibly when a new floor went in the floor guy undercut it too high?

The new base makes the casing look worse.
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Looks good, but that casing needs to meet the floor, or is the photo exaggerating the space?
Tim

Hey Tim.

Not exaggerated. It was there before. The house is mid-80's and had horrible 6x6 white tiles on top of backerboard. In some places, there was also a lot of mud to fill in some dips in the floor. The old dark stained trim got a white PC coat a few years back.  The gap isn't too bad and isn't the only one obviously!

Thanks for the replies guys.

Cheers. Bryan.

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