How to create a groove in a cutting board

[HowardH]

I'm making another cutting board as a gift but this time I want to rout a groove about an inch inside the perimeter.  I have a MFS 400 system which would have been perfect but it's too small.  The board dimensions are about 14 x 20.  Should I get an edge guide and use that with my OF 1400 or should I use my router table with stops on the fence?  I kinda like the idea of using the Of1400 since I will be able to see what's going on.  It's about $60 in material so I can't afford to screw this up. 

 

[peter halle]

I have an idea, bit I need to know if you have the guide rail adaptor for your 1400. 

Peter

 

[HowardH]

I do. 

 

[mouppe]

Clamp two pieces of mdf either side of the groove location and use a guide bushing. I would use a bit narrower than your final groove dimension as you can then run a clean-up pass on both sides of the groove. Stop short of the groove ends and finish that part with a chisel.

Just to put the cat among the pigeons, I have to say this is a job for a router plane... [tongue]

 

[HowardH]

That gives me an idea.  I could make make an MDF template just for this project using my dowelmax to hold it together.  Sort of like a non-adjustable MFS and then use the 1400 with a guidebushing around the inside edge. I could use the MFT to clamp it down to the top of the board or use double sided tape. 

 

[peter halle]

Here is another idea:

Mark the center lines for your grooves on your cutting board.

Mount the guiderail adaptor on your router and clamp a long straight piece of scrap to the bottom of the guiderail adaptor.

Line up the center line of the router using the marks on the router base to your line and adjust the clamped piece to match.

Do the same at the other end.

Slide to the intersection of your lines at one corner.  Clamp a scrap as a stop at the end of the board where applicable.  Clamp a scrap on top of that piece.

Repeat at other end.

Route your two sides.

Switch to the perpendicular sides and repeat.

This took longer to type than it would probably take you to set up the first side.  No cost.  No permanent jigs to take up space.

Peter

EDIT:  This image should explain better the concept than my typing:

[attachimg=#]

 

[sgryd]

What a great oppurtunity to add a couple of MFS 700 rails to the collection  ;D

 

[tiralie]

That gives me an idea.  I could make make an MDF template just for this project using my dowelmax to hold it together.  Sort of like a non-adjustable MFS and then use the 1400 with a guidebushing around the inside edge. I could use the MFT to clamp it down to the top of the board or use double sided tape. 

Why do you need to dowel max the parts, just make a template of the negative shape stick down with some double sided tape and route around the outside of that, boom you're done.
Tim

 

[HowardH]

I guess I don't follow the set up.  Looking at the picture, it appears the long scrap piece is clamped down to the MFT along with the router guide.  How do you slide the router if it's clamped down?  I'm sure your method makes sense but I'm not seeing it yet.   

 

[tbellemare]

I think he's turning the scrap piece into an "edge guide".

Tom

 

[HowardH]

I thought so too but if you examine the picture, it appears the router is in effect clamped so it won't move.  Not sure what I'm missing. 

 

[tbellemare]

The white is not connected to the router. The natural wood scrap is clamped to the guide stop.

If you were to use this set up and both parts of the guide stop, you would also have a micro-adjuster.

Tom

 

[HowardH]

Tom,
White what?  If the guide stop is clamped down, (it appears so with the speed clamp) what is actually moving?  why couldn't I just draw my lines and clamp the guide rail to my board and add a couple of stops at either end and then route down the four sides in order? 

 

[tbellemare]

The part between the arrows is all that is clamped to the edge guide.

[attachimg=#1]

There are several ways to do this, the way you just mentioned included.

Another way is to clamp a piece to the edge of your cutting board that is slightly higher than the top of the cutting board. Higher enough to allow the copy ring to ride against it. Run one side. Move it to the 3 other sides and rout them. You could even put some stops on it by clamping two other pieces to the adjacent edges of your cutting board or just surround it.

Tom

 

[mastercabman]

I guess I don't follow the set up.  Looking at the picture, it appears the long scrap piece is clamped down to the MFT along with the router guide.  How do you slide the router if it's clamped down?  I'm sure your method makes sense but I'm not seeing it yet.    

I think what he made is a edge guide by clamping a piece of wood to the guide rail adapter.

To answer your original question,i would make a template and use a bushing guide.

 

[tbellemare]

I think this is what Peter has been showing. I used a scrap piece of 2x6 to make it easier.

When I first looked at his image in another thread, it was difficult to see. I think that was because he used an image of his rig in use.

Peter:

Please tell us if this is it?

[attachimg=#1]

Tom

 

[tbellemare]

In this image, I tried to show how Peter's concept can be used with the Micro-Adjuster that comes with your typical Festool Guide Stops. I also used the same piece of left over 2x6.

[attachimg=#1]

I, personally prefer the Festool Edge Guide but this and Peter's solutions are certainly viable. There are so many ways to skin a cat...

Tom

 

[peter halle]

Sorry Guys, just got back from a meeting.  I guess I threw a curveball into the equation by not explaining that the piece that I was routing in the images was white PVC.  In the part of the image that you don't see I was using the edge guide also on the other edge of the workpiece so that the router was forced to route in a straight line.  Tom's example is a clearer depiction.  Just imagine Tom's wooden piece to be long enough to have stops clamped to them that would hit the ends of the cutting board.  Yes you would have to be creative, but woodworkers are  [thumbs up].  I have never been a permanent jig kind of guy so I tend to use things in ways that they can be reused.  May not be the most efficient in the long run but until I have a shop that I own versus rent on a monthly basis where I can't mount anything to the walls it will have to do for me.

Thanks for the assist Tom!

Peter

 

[richard.selwyn]

I must be missing something, but I just use the fitting shown on this thread with the guide rail. Mark the same distance from the edge all the way round and fit or mark stops on the rail. I made a very quick board this way on Saturday to cut up a small sheep - about 1 metre long by 40cm wide

 

[allen r austin]

Why do all this work, cut a 3/8 ply to the size you need then double stick tape it down and put the guide bushing in and plunge it down and go around?
Allen - note as all ways practice on scrap    re tape and go!!