How to enlarge existing melamine cavity to fit dishwasher?

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eddomak

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With great difficulty, I managed to remove (by winching out with ratchet straps) a standard standalone dishwasher from its cavity in the kitchen because there was zero clearance between the washer and the adjoining cabinet carcass sides. I don't know if this was due to tight clearances in the first place, or whether the carcasses may have expanded or swollen and wedged the machine in place.

Of course the next step is to install the new dishwasher, which is once again standard size, and won't quite fit. I suspect I would want to give myself an extra 2-3mm clearance over what is already there, and probably only in a couple of points on those carcasses.

Do you have any suggestions that don't involve dismantling the kitchen? I am considering sanding (or routing) the points of contact down one or two sides with low grit paper to remove material (melamine and the underlying particleboard, but then there may be moisture issues since the particleboard wouldn't be protected anymore?

Anyway, I'd love to hear any helpful suggestions.

Thanks in advance.
 
Some of the euro model dishwashers are slightly narrower than a standard "American" dishwasher. Look at various manufactures specs, see if you can find something that will fit.

Any chance you can loosen a row of cabinets and shift them a little?

If none of the above, remove one of the cabinets and mill the side down. Seal it well with a good cabinet finish.

Tom
 
Sanding and resealing is your quickest and easiest option. I'm guessing that the edge that will be exposed to moisture will not be exposed to view, so a sealant would be adequate.
 
RAS115 works well to quickly make some space. I use it all the time to fit refrigerators back in after I install new hardwood floors.
 
A router, jigsaw, sander, rasp in about that order depending on what you and what you want. If it is wood and not MDF then even a plane could work.
 
Thanks for the ideas and options - I'll update the thread on how it went.

Yeap - if it was proper wood I would have taken the chance to use my hand plane and block plane, and some Osmo PolyX.

I don't have a RAS115, only a ETS150/5, so am hoping a very low grip paper will get through the melamine layer. This has the advantage of dust collection using the CT.

I think I can't go the jigsaw route as I want to preserve the front edge, and it may not go deep into the cabinet far enough.
 
Check the tub, may be some ribs you can knock a few mm off of.

Tom
 
For me, 2-3mm, or 1-1.5mm on either side sounds more like a job for a clamp being reversed as a spreader or a bottle jack or wedge of some description. To push get the machine in place rather than trying to sand it back.

It's surprising how much something supposedly solid will move with less force than expected. I always remember seeing an old time carpenter "adjust" a door frame by giving it a good whack with a sledge hammer and how much it will actually move.
 
Most dishwashers are insulated. You could strip away some of the layers to get a better fit.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It's too tight on the top or sides? The last dishwasher install I did meant taking a Bosch variable speed grinder to the bottom edge of the granite and carefully remove 1/8 " from the sides. The house had tile underneath the dishwasher so there was high spots. We needed to bend back the metal on the corners and lowered or removed the feet. I can't remember?
If it's on the side I would sand both sides equally and split the difference. When you say won't fit I'm assuming it's just the front of the cabinetry once you slide it in?

If you can find a new dishwasher that's smaller then exchange it. Sounds like you'll be doing some sanding though to get it to fit it in.  Also, like the above post can you just remove the insulation on the side or top to make it fit?
 
bobfog said:
For me, 2-3mm, or 1-1.5mm on either side sounds more like a job for a clamp being reversed as a spreader or a bottle jack or wedge of some description. To push get the machine in place rather than trying to sand it back.

It's surprising how much something supposedly solid will move with less force than expected. I always remember seeing an old time carpenter "adjust" a door frame by giving it a good whack with a sledge hammer and how much it will actually move.
Click to expand...

[member=60286]bobfog[/member] I'm deffo going to get you to fix my TV the next time it fails [big grin] [wink]
 
bobfog said:
For me, 2-3mm, or 1-1.5mm on either side sounds more like a job for a clamp being reversed as a spreader or a bottle jack or wedge of some description. To push get the machine in place rather than trying to sand it back.
Click to expand...

Actually, this was an idea I had when I was removing the original dishwasher, but forgot about - just putting in the car jack with some spacers and hoping to bend the whole lot out, shift, or compress any high spots. Thanks for reminding me!

Thanks also for the comments about the sides, but the washer is a standalone unit where I can't do anything to the washer itself.

Sparktrician said:
Sounds like a perfectly good excuse to spring for a Rotex...  [big grin]
Click to expand...
If only... if only...
 
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