How to get air tool oil out of an MFT top?

[TJ Cornish]

I was using my MFT3 as a work surface when I used a brand new air tool - a pop riveter, and a bunch of oil spattered out onto my MFT top.  Any idea how to get it out?  Should I just put a coat of varnish over it?

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Repeated gentle wipings with lacquer thinner so you don't damage the MDF, but still remove enough of the oil to keep it from transferring to other things placed on the MFT.

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Or just flip the top.

 

[MarkF]

Why bother?  It's a workbench! 

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Why bother?  It's a workbench! 

Because it can transfer to other materials placed on top of the MFT like a piece of wood.  That presents a staining of the wood or finishing problem.

 

[MarkF]

Why bother?  It's a workbench!  

Because it can transfer to other materials placed on top of the MFT like a piece of wood.  That presents a staining of the wood or finishing problem.

I didn't realize there was enough oil in a pneumatic Pop Riveter to pose a significant risk to a finish.  I understood that it was a few spatters.  Not enough to be able to transfer after it soaked into the surface.

My point is this...Too many expect their MFTs to remain pristine.  The surface is not a surgical field.  It's a consumable.  Less than the cost of a TS-55 blade and easily repaired or replaced.

 

[TJ Cornish]

Thanks for the replies.  Though I do like to keep my tools working and looking really good, I don't believe I've yet reached the point of OCD about it.  As I mentioned in my first post, this was a new tool, and had quite a lot of oil in it, presumably to keep it from rusting on the boat.  The first exhaust of the tool created  a splatter the size of a piece of New York pizza.  I was able to wipe some of it up, but this happened 2 days after I came home from the hospital with my second child, and I didn't have much time to give it any attention, since I was trying to finish up a good paying job, and my time in the shop since then has been all but non-existant.

I'll give the lacquer thinner a go.  I've done some baltic birch plywood work on it since the spill (non-critical work - will probably end up being painted) and can't see any oil transfer, but that doesn't mean there isn't any.

TJ

 

[MarkF]

Try some clay style cat litter (clean of coarse [eek]) or a product called Oil-Dri (same as cat litter) on the oil before trying the solvent.  If you can get it ground up a bit and powdered it will absorb a lot of oil.  Leave it for a day and see if it pulls it out.  It works great on concrete.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

If that doesn't work out at least your cat will have new German "facilities".  [big grin]

 

[tbellemare]

Try some clay style cat litter (clean of coarse [eek]) or a product called Oil-Dri (same as cat litter) on the oil before trying the solvent.  If you can get it ground up a bit and powdered it will absorb a lot of oil.  Leave it for a day and see if it pulls it out.  It works great on concrete.

I've also seen it called Floor Sweep. It works best for me on concrete when I grind it in with my foot. That method might cause a few heads to turn if your table is set up...

Tom

 

[harry_]

Try some clay style cat litter (clean of coarse [eek]) or a product called Oil-Dri (same as cat litter) on the oil before trying the solvent.  If you can get it ground up a bit and powdered it will absorb a lot of oil.  Leave it for a day and see if it pulls it out.  It works great on concrete.

A fistful of powdered laundry detergent thrown in make this method work really well. (at least on concrete/asphalt it works really well)

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

You could sand it.