How to get square cuts without an MFT?

[Toolpig]

I have the TS55 and a couple of 1400 guide rails.  To get square cuts on plywood, I've been using a drywall T-square, framing square, tape measure and pencil -- whatever it takes.  A lot of fussing and not the best results sometimes.

I can't afford the MFT (yet), but am wondering what folks here do to get square cuts on plywood with a minimum of fuss.

TP

 

[Greg in Memphis]

Have you tried using a 491594 quick clamp at both ends of the rail?
I had some similar problems before I started clamping my rails down on longer cuts.
Also, I've found that using two 482107 guide rail connectors together when I connect two guide rails for a longer cut can keep that straight edge better than just one.
You should be able to lay a good square right up to the corner, flush.
If you're not getting these results you may have saw or rail problems.

Hope this might help

Greg

 

[Lou Miller]

I have the TS55 and a couple of 1400 guide rails.  To get square cuts on plywood, I've been using a drywall T-square, framing square, tape measure and pencil -- whatever it takes.  A lot of fussing and not the best results sometimes.

I can't afford the MFT (yet), but am wondering what folks here do to get square cuts on plywood with a minimum of fuss.

TP

I assume you're talking about cross cuts? The problems you are having are mostly due to the tools you are using. Drywall squares and framing sqaures are seldom actually square and a tape measure and pencil leave too much room for operator error. When I don't want to drag my MFT out, I use an 800 rail and a 12" speed square. You can use your 1400 its just a little more awkward for crosscuts on narrow pieces. Basically just give yourself a mark for length, line your guide rail up to it, and use the speed square to make sure the rail is square to the work piece.

Speed squares are typically far more accurate than the other types of squares you are using. I use the fixed metal ones instead of the plastic ones or the adjustable metal ones. To check one of them for square, you just get a board that has a straight edge to it. Align the square with the edge and draw a line across the board. Now if you put the square on like this _l when you drew your line, flip the square over so it is like this l_ now. If the sqaure lines up perfectly with your line on both sides, the square is good. If not, its off. A sander can correct it, but its a pain, so try to buy one that is square to begin with. Speed squares also work better than framing squares and combination squares for this because they are thicker and it gives more area for the rail to make contact with.

Its still better to have an MFT, but the above method works very well. I probably make about 20% of my cross cuts on jobsites this way and I get excellent results. Its also very fast and effecient. Besides, I have about 8000 other uses for the speed square. You will too once you get one.

 

[Toolpig]

By and large, the results I'm getting are fine.  I'm just looking for an easier, faster way.

TP

Have you tried using a 491594 quick clamp at both ends of the rail?
I had some similar problems before I started clamping my rails down on longer cuts.
Also, I've found that using two 482107 guide rail connectors together when I connect two guide rails for a longer cut can keep that straight edge better than just one.
You should be able to lay a good square right up to the corner, flush.
If you're not getting these results you may have saw or rail problems.

Hope this might help

Greg

 

[mysterium]

Here's a cheap 48" square. 

www.sommerfeldtools.com/item.asp?n=87103&d=159&b=1

The one I received was "spot on" with my spendy Starrett combination squares.  The blade is aluminum, with painted on marks but again the scale was a perfect match with my 48" Starrett rule. 

jim

 

[fcraven]

Getting a 90 degree crosscut angle with the MFT is my biggest problems with Festool products (note: problems are few and far between). Although I like the functionality of the MFT, and use it a lot, I don't ever trust it for an accurate cut. No, seriously. If I want something to be square, I draw a line and then set the guide on top of the line.

I think the problem lies in the mitre guide. The drop down guide can be "set" correctly, but if you move the mitre guide, even to slide it down, your done for (I'm done for). I think someone here mentioned that if you have a pre-cut, known, 90 degree piece of wood then you can use that to set the fence and guide, but it would be nice to have "changeable, repeatable, reliable cuts.

Another problem...uh...complaining about UL doesn't count...uh...Price, no, knew about that coming in...Lake of Kapex (or other cool items) in the US, been there done that...OH, yeah, I know, on the jig saw you can't see the cutting line well with the dust shield installed ;D

 

[Michael Kellough]

Here's a cheap 48" square. 

www.sommerfeldtools.com/item.asp?n=87103&d=159&b=1

The one I received was "spot on" with my spendy Starrett combination squares.  The blade is aluminum, with painted on marks but again the scale was a perfect match with my 48" Starrett rule. 

jim

This square is a very good value and would be even without increments for use as an adjustable story stick. But, I don't think a head that short is stable enough for marking across a wide sheet of material.

The first issue is how straight and fuzz-free is your reference edge? The "factory rip" might have been both straight and clean when fresh but rarely is by the time it gets to my shop so the first thing I do is put an FS 2700 on it and rip a new one. Then you have a fighting chance to use a good square.

I find a drywall square to be problematic in that the long head apparently accumulates enough dust under it that variable pressure on the head produces variable results at the far end of the rule. If I needed full width stuff I'd probably go with the 12" speed square (as Lou reccomended) as a guide for an FS 1400. The big speed square seems to be a god size for achieving stability on the edge and providing a long enough guide for the FS without giving away so much leverage to the FS that the speedsquare is too easily moved. Also, the larger surface area of the speedsquare helps keep it in place and provides a way to clamp it to the work.

If the parts I need will fit on the MFT I rip them to that size first and square cut on the MFT. That is by far the simplest and most accurate way to go.