How to preserve top of MFT/3 table

K

Kwolsen

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Jun 24, 2016
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15
I'm not a festool owner yet, but considering. Almost every video I've seen using a track saw with the MFT/3 shows kerf cuts in the table top. Is there anyway to avoid these cuts? I'd like to keep the top looking good. Could you put down a think layer of plywood to avoid cutting into the table?
Thanks
 
That's a bit like asking if you can make a saw blade last forever if you never use it. Of course you can, but then you lose the ability to clamp through it and you're pretty much defeating the purpose of the expensive table. Might as well stick to sawhorses.

 
[member=61688]Kwolsen[/member]

[welcome] to the FOG!

I know some people have repaired the saw kerf areas after much use, perhaps you could be preemptive instead, maybe route out a dado and make some replaceable sacrificial strips. After enough use, you could remove and replace the strip. Just an idea anyhow... I know the MFT/3 is an expensive item, but the top is actually meant to be cut into a bit while using the track saw. If you are free handing cuts, maybe lay down a piece of foam first.

Have fun!
 
I know I often go against the grain  [blink], but I've never cut into any of my MFTs. Never. Always used a sacrificial piece under. Isn't that difficult, and I believe that there are some advantages.

My first Festool purchase included a MFT-1080.  [smile]
 
In the "perfect world" you will have one kerf line on your MFT and it's in much the same fashion that you perform the initial sizing of the clear strips on your FS rails. You'll see MFT tops completely destroyed by some simply because that's the way they choose to work .. it's a choice thing. Keep in mind it is a sacrificial top and is intended to be replaced over time. You could treat it like luxury dining table, but will the effort and the distraction save you the cost of replacing the top every few years (remember you can flip the top over too) ??

If you are careful with depth adjustment you can use an under board to eliminate blade contact with the MFT surface, but that's an extra step, an extra distraction and one more thing that can lead to a mistake in your project.

If you do have a minor accident .. as mentioned - wood fill and sand if it concerns you.

If you have a major accident .. buy a new MFT top.

Catastrophic blunder (cut through a side profile) .. replacement parts are available.

Which ever way you choose to go I would suggest that you adopt a checklist before you make a cut .. the check list should cover saw setup, safety, measurement accuracy, etc and you'll ultimately commit this to memory. If this list includes "insert MFT protecting packing piece" and "check integrity of cutting angle" .. thats OK [wink]
 
MFT tops are made to be cut in. Makes life a lot easier. I for one try to not cut into mine. Other then the one for cross cutting. Some folks make cutting tables, others use sacrificial pieces such as 2x4, ply, or what ever scrap they have lying around that can separate the work from the table.

It's personal preference really.
 
Holmz said:
Reminds me I need to get some shoes resoled.
Click to expand...

[member=40772]Holmz[/member]

Based on the previous link, are they for golf? [wink]
 
Kev said:
Holmz said:
Reminds me I need to get some shoes resoled.
Click to expand...

[member=40772]Holmz[/member]

Based on the previous link, are they for golf? [wink]
Click to expand...

No I do not golf, but I am willing to hold a club (ideally a Canadian club and soda).

Fore...
The shoes wear out if one uses them for the intended purpose, and the MFT may also get wear from usage.  [big grin]
 
I only use my MFT for precise cross cutting as I have a 64" X 102" table with the hole spacing that I use for long  and angular cuts.  I routed a sliding dovetail slot that in inserted a 1/2" face UHMW key that takes the kerf and can be replaced.
 
though I didn't read all the posts, I don't think anyone recommended use a sheet of foam insulation to cut on.
 
jobsworth said:
though I didn't read all the posts, I don't think anyone recommended use a sheet of foam insulation to cut on.
Click to expand...

how do you use the holes of the mft top to clamp the piece down if it's all covered?
 
If you use the MFT as designed, the rail remains stationary and you move the fence to cut other angles, you'll only cut one groove in the surface. But it's your table to use how you please.

Cutting stuff that is lower/thinner than the fence requires placing the work on something sacrificial. You don't want to lift the work too high so I keep some 1/8", 1/4", and 3/8" scraps nearby. The 1/4 and 3/8 risers are MDF but anything flat and smooth is good.

Cheap is good too so you don't mind ripping the riser down so the clamp holes are uncovered. Pieces can be taped together with packing tape. The 3M heavy duty version doesn't leave it's adhesive behind.

One of my favorite materials is 1/8" thick melamine covered double tempered Masonite called "tile board" at Lowe's for about $10 for a 4'x8' sheet. It's flat, smooth, and cheap. Bright white on one side and dark brown on the other, which makes it useful for photography too. The white melamine side can be sanded with fine abrasive and then it accepts pencil marks beautifully.

Another I use it for is quick and dirty zero clearance covers on the table saw. Once the fence is set just lower the blade and tape a good sized piece of tile board over the blade insert. It can be waxed if needed.
 
Remember that you can flip the top around so you get two surfaces. I just got a new top for my MFT after 7 years.
 
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