How would you prep this door?

[Pnw painter]

A client just added an exterior door to the scope of work that is in pretty rough shape.

The door will ultimately be finished with ProLuxe Door and Window, but I'm wondering how I should prep the door? Sand , strip or ???

If I sand I'm concerned about sanding through the veneer. If I strip I'm not sure what product to use?

I'm also concerned about the cracks and thought I'd fill them with System 3 Scuptwood Paste. The data sheet mentions that the product accepts paint, but I'm not sure if a clear oil based finish counts as paint.

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[antss]

Why do you think this door is veneered ?  That would be very a very odd type of construction for an exterior wood door.

If those stiles are actually veneered , then it's time for a new door in my opinion.

If it's solid wood then I'd sand it and use a hardener like rot dr. or similar if the wood is soft.  This assume the joint is still sound. If not, time for a new door.  You can make a paste with the sawdust to fill the cracks.  Wood bleach will prob. take care of the discoloration if it's not too deep.  If it is, nothing is going to help with a clear finish.

 

[Svar]

Why do you think this door is veneered ?  That would be very a very odd type of construction for an exterior wood door.

I thought the same thing. The panel is ply, but rails have got to be solid.

 

[antss]

Think the panel might be solid wood too.  Take a look at the vertical breaks every 4-5". 

I can't imagine using such narrow strips of veneer in a common and inexpensive species for a panel like this. It looks to be Doug Fir from here .

With that much exposure I'd also expect to see veneer peel away from the substrate instead of stain.

If this door is opening outward like it appears, you'd better get some security hinges instead of regular ones.  Those pins can be popped with a screwdriver in about a minute and the door pulled right out of the locks .

 

[tjbnwi]

I also believe that is a veneered door. Just not the thin veneer we're used to seeing on an interior door. There are many stave core doors that appear solid but are veneered.

I'd take a thin putty knife and peel a piece off the bottom rail to answer the question.

I'd sand this one, evaluate for necessary glue down and fill repairs.

Pictured is an Andersen Patio door. I replaced a section of the veneer their dog damaged. The veneer was standard 1/50th solid.

Tom

 

[antss]

I guess I've seen it all now.  [eek]

Tom , how many hours did that repair take ?  I'm trying to wrap my head around the economics of repairing a cheap (relatively) door?

I've never used Anderson and sure am glad after seeing this. 

 

[Pnw painter]

I'll have to investigate the thickness of the veneer tomorrow morning. If I end up sanding through the veneer the GC will replace whatever's needed. The client understands that there's a high likelyhood that some of the veneer's may need to be replaced and they still wanted to proceed with a clear finish vs painting.

At this point I'll go ahead and sand the door. It shouldn't be too tough with the RO125 or Ets Ec 150.

I was also lucky to get some excellent advice from the clerk at a local marine supply store. He recommend filling the cracks with System Three Sculptwood Paste. For the ultimate in longevity he also recommended applying Smith's Penetrating Epoxy Sealer prior to clear coating. Here's a link in-case anybody is interested:http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/

@antss thanks for the wood bleach recommendation. I hadn't thought of that. Once the doors have been sanded I'll see if it's needed.

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[tjbnwi]

I guess I've seen it all now.  [eek]

Tom , how many hours did that repair take ?  I'm trying to wrap my head around the economics of repairing a cheap (relatively) door?

I've never used Anderson and sure am glad after seeing this.

I was there a day by the time I dyed and finished the door.

That door is right around 2K plus installing it.

It's not just Andersen, all of the door manufactures (that I know of and have used) have gone to stave cores. It creates a much more stable door.

Most would be very surprised to see what is veneered that they thought was a solid.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

I'll have to investigate the thickness of the veneer tomorrow morning. If I end up sanding through the veneer the GC will replace whatever's needed. The client understands that there's a high likelyhood that some of the veneer's may need to be replaced and they still wanted to proceed with a clear finish vs painting.

At this point I'll go ahead and sand the door. It shouldn't be too tough with the RO125 or Ets Ec 150.

I was also lucky to get some excellent advice from the clerk at a local marine supply store. He recommend filling the cracks with System Three Sculptwood Paste. For the ultimate in longevity he also recommended applying Smith's Penetrating Epoxy Sealer prior to clear coating. Here's a link in-case anybody is interested:http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/

[member=727]antss[/member] thanks for the wood bleach recommendation. I hadn't thought of that. Once the doors have been sanded I'll see if it's needed.

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They do know with clears there is really no UV protection for the door? Try to talk them into a painted exterior.

Use Sherthane to caulk the panels bottom and 2 sides. Most of the damage appears to be water thru the panel to sticking.

Tom

 

[Pnw painter]

Thanks for the advice Tom! I'm using ProLuxe Door and Window in the Natural color, but the client is well aware that it won't last as long as a painted door.

Do you think it would be better to use clear caulk or the System Three Scuptwood paste? My thoughts are that caulk has more elasticity, bit it would be pretty messy. If I use the paste I can fill everything and sand it smooth. This might seal the wood a little better and leave a nice looking finish.

All the millwork in their house is Fir that has been finished with Osmo or Rubio Monocoat.

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[Pnw painter]

I was lucky that when I sanded the door I only burned through a very small spot of the veneer near the very bottom of the door.

Although I suggested bleaching the door, the client though it was fine despite the stains on the bottom of the door.

After all the sanding was complete I applied Smith's Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. It's really easy to apply, but I had to work fast because my local dealer only had the cold weather formula in stock.

After the Smith's cured I applied System Three Scuptwood Paste to all the cracks. After a little sanding it'll be ready for 3-4 coats of Sikkens.

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