Ideal guide rail size to rip full length 4x8 sheets

m021478

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Jan 22, 2021
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I believe the Festool FS 2700 106"in. Guide Rail is the optimal size for ripping a full 8'ft. sheet of plywood (without using multiple smaller rails connected together). However, I also had my eye on eventually picking up a TSO Parallel Guide system along with the TSO GRS-16 edge guide square, and I just wanted to make sure that the 106"in. rail will be long enough to also support the TSO guides/square.

Please advise. Thanks!
 
Get the 3000. Then you can also do diagonal cuts and you don't have to position the rail as exactly. Also way less risk of running off the rail with one part of the saw and dinging your workpiece and anti-splinterstrip.

The GRS-16-PE is 152mm, so with the 2700 rail it would leave you only 2700-2440-152=108mm on the other side of the cut.

I always prefer to be able to start with the saw down (no plunge cut) and completely pass the workpiece with the saw before letting it come up.
 
m021478 said:
I believe the Festool FS 2700 106"in. Guide Rail is the optimal size for ripping a full 8'ft. sheet of plywood (without using multiple smaller rails connected together). However, I also had my eye on eventually picking up a TSO Parallel Guide system along with the TSO GRS-16 edge guide square, and I just wanted to make sure that the 106"in. rail will be long enough to also support the TSO guides/square.

Please advise. Thanks!
Unfortunately it is "just too short". You want at least 2800 for that (250 mm at start for the saw and some for overhang at the end).
You need either the 3000 or 2400-ish + a shorty (IMO optimal for hobby use) or 2x1400.

If you plan an initial purchase, I would avoid the long rails before you are at 2+ 1400 (or equivalent) rails. already
/Did that mistake myself./

Check the Ben's video here:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/how-to-connect-and-align-festool's-guide-rails/

And my post here:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/which-guide-rail-length-should-you-get/

Do not be afraid of rail joining. If done properly, the main downside is time. Not a loss of accuracy.
 
I have a 118" rail and think for a rip that is the right size, having a few extra inches than minimum is helpful.  I have a 55" for the crosscuts, and that is barely workable with a TS75.
 
Get the 3000. Don’t deal with joining rails unless you really have to. I used the TSO and Mikita guide rail connectors and could never get it to align properly. Seemed like the first time I would move it, the rails would shift, and yes I tightened and aligned everything properly (I even have the Betterly Straightline Connector). I wasted more time and and messed up several cuts before finally getting the 3000. No issues since.
 
Since I can, I like to join a 1400 and 1900  together for ripping using TSO GRS and their PGS. Works great. Betterley connector and makita joiners. It stays straight. I like not having to worry about how much rail is before and after the cut since I have so much extra length this way. Only downside is when I need a crosscut I usually want the 1900 for that and if I'm bouncing back and forth between rips and crosscuts it means re-attaching.

 
I joined a 75 and 55 for years, first with Festool joiners and then Makita, using a 4' joiner I made with 8020 extrusion. I got tired of disconnecting to use the 75 for crosscutting and I sprang for the 3000 and have been happy ever since, I've even joined to the 3000 to rip 12' sheets.
 
m021478 said:
I believe the Festool FS 2700 106"in. Guide Rail is the optimal size for ripping a full 8'ft. sheet of plywood (without using multiple smaller rails connected together). However, I also had my eye on eventually picking up a TSO Parallel Guide system along with the TSO GRS-16 edge guide square, and I just wanted to make sure that the 106"in. rail will be long enough to also support the TSO guides/square.

Please advise. Thanks!

The 3000 is the ideal size for rip cuts on a 4x8 sheet - NOT the 2700. It’s only downside is storage and transport. It’s really only suitable for a fixed shop environment in my opinion. It can be unwieldy to haul around.
 
Yeah the 3000 is unwieldy but I rip what I need and put it back on the wall above the garage door using the FastCap Track Rack.
 
I’m using 2 x 1400 joined together with a TS75 with no problems. It’s definitely long enough and dead accurate to cut a full sheet lengthways
 
In the shop I use a 2700, on the job site I use a 1400 and 1900 joined together.  I use the Betterly alignment guide. 

I wish I had a 3000, but it wasn't readily available when I was ready to buy....  The combination of the 1400 and 1900 is really a nice length but it is unwieldy.

I really like the long rail, it's not that I don't have confidence in the rail joiners but they can be a PITA....
 
I have the 2700 ,
That’s what my local supplier had or I would have gone 3000.
It works with my tsc-55 I also have 2-1400 rails and a 1900.

I used to join my rails with a batterley and connectors , got ired of joining them.
I use the 1900 and a 1400 in the field , due to how easy they are to travel.
Cheers Charlie

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Worth bearing in mind that the HKC usually starts the cut with the blade in the down position and consequently requires a bit more lead into the start than a TS55.
Yeah, it's possible to use the plunge cut lever and start it with less lead in on the rail but 2800mm of rail is tight otherwise.
 
A good buddy and I both have Makita tracksaws with a pair of 55" rails apiece.  When I was building my ipe deck I bought an extra joiner and strung all 4 rails together for the trim cuts on my deck boards.  It was an awkward job getting it positioned but the cut was great.
 
I'm another for the 3000 rail. For the cost and transport issues, the 2700 is not enough smaller to matter. Neither is friendly for that, even the 1900 isn't so handy for transporting. If I had to use them for cuts that long in the field, I would probably go with a 1900 and a 1400. Cross cut  full sheets with the 1900 and combine them for full length cuts. The 1900 is still pretty long, but manageable.
The exception to this, for me anyway, would be if you are using a router. I really don't like routing across the joint. I have had to, which is why I bought the 1900. I used a 1400 to crosscut ply and may never have bothered to get a 1900, until I needed to route a groove into a countertop to retrofit COVID screening partitions. Since getting it, I don't struggle with the 1400 on sheet goods.
Another consideration is the pistol-grip style clamp. I have one and use it a lot, but you cant use it with joined tracks, another win for long rails, but I am not mobile.
 
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