Inca Tablesaw - Help, please

[Dane]

So I got myself an Inca tablesaw.  The little one, with the mortising attachment.  It was a really good price, but that is because it is missing a few things.  Most notably the fence. And the guard. And the riving knife. Oh, and the miter gauge. Maybe it wasn't such a good deal after all....  But I love it, it is a sturdy little beast.  So, if I can get it operable, I am really looking forward to owning it.  I know that a few of you guys own these, if you could share some wisdom I would really appreciate it.

I have a few questions:

1.  Missing parts.  I haven't had much luck tracking down replacements.  I can live without the guard.  I am assuming that I can make some riving knives, if I can manage to get the templates, or maybe just wing that.  Any advice on the fence?  What about using an IncRa fence?  Or maybe even one of the Kreg bandsaw fences?  I have a TS75 for wide rips, so this will primarily be used for narrow pieces, so I don't need a long fence.  Miter gauge?  Maybe just make do with a crosscut sled?  

2. Table.  Has anyone built a custom table for their saw? The existing table is a beat beat up.  I need to put the saw on wheels and have it be short enough to store under a workbench.  Seems like it wouldn't be too hard to build a custom table, just have to get the motor lined up correctly.  Any cautionary notes here?

3. Blades.  So, it has a 20mm arbor.  Where do you guys get blades?  The ts55 has a 20mm bore, would that work?

4. Wiring.  It is currently wired for 220.  The motor is 1.5 hp which is what my bandsaw runs on and it runs at 120v.  Would be harmful to rewire the motor over to 120?

5. Mortising attachment.  I have a Domino, am I ever going to use the mortiser attached to the saw?  Do you?  I guess my question is if it is worth the time to get it tuned up and running or will I find that between my routers and Domino, I have easier ways to get the job done?  I appreciate the cleverness, and have half a mind to get it working for the asthetic value alone.  But really I could use the extra real estate that that attachment takes up in my 10 x 12 shop space.  But if its the coolest thing ever, I will get it going.  You tell me.

I also need to take it apart and give it a good cleaning, any advice here?  Any recommend lubricants?

I really appreciate any advise you guys might have.  I don't contribute as much as I should to this forum and once I get my micro-shop up and running I hope to spend more time sharing.  But I sure do appreciate all you guys that take the time to pass along your knowledge.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Check this thread then call Jesse at Eagle Tool.

 

[Dane]

Thanks for the reply Michael. 

I have read through pretty much every thread on the FOG and other sites related to the Inca including the Yahoo Inca group.  I have applied to join that group, but they seem to be fairly inactive and I haven't heard back.
 
I do have a call into Eagle, from what I have read they seem to have a decent selection of parts, but not so much accesories like fences and miter gauges.  I am really just wanting to get some general info about users experience with the saws re: wiring, custom tables, blades etc. and if their are some third party solutions or home-made devices that might work as well as trying to track down OEM equipment.

Thanks again for your input.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Dane, I'd try posting at Sawmill creek too.
Also, send a PM to Roger Savaterri here or at talkFestool.com.
He has several Inca machines but he just takes them to Eagle when service is needed.
I visited him in the Spring and we picked up his 12" Inca from Eagle
where they had just replaced the arbor bearings.

 

[nclemmons]

Dane -

I have had a 259 with the mortising attachment for 20+ years.  It's a great saw, particularly in combination with a Festool and guide rail for panel cuts.  You will really enjoy it.

As to your questions - Jesse is a great resource as is the Yahoo group, so stay on those paths.

You could get a fence fabricated to clamp on the rails of the saw for not a lot of money at a machine shop.  It's a very simple design.  I have two fences for mine - one that clamps on the front of the saw, and one that clamps on the front and rear.  If you need photos, I can send them to you this weekend and they might give you some ideas to take to a machine shop to get something welded up.

You could do the same for a miter guide as a machine shop can take a standard miter gauge and machine down the slot insert.  I did it on some Incra aluminum sliding guides and a lot of sanding.  I run one of their sleds on my saw on occasion and they work great.  But a machine shop would do a better more consistent job of narrowing the slot insert on a miter guide for not much money.  That would let you pick the miter guide you like and adapt it.

I have the domino and still use the mortising table.  It will do a 4" mortise over two inches deep - something that can be handy if you are making a bed or larger furniture where you need larger mortises.  I also have a Delta mortiser.  But the Inca does such a nice job with deep or wide mortises that I'd suggest you clean it up and see if you use it.  The mortising attachment is also great for horizontal boring.  And Inca used to offer a sanding disk.  I'm sure you can find sanding disks that would fit even if not Inca, assuming you might need one for occasional use and get more use out of the table.

There are a number of accessories for the table in clamps, pegs, and bits.  Check with Jesse because when I was in his store back in May, he had quite a few various parts for different Incas.  He does buy and rebuild / refurb old Inca's so likely he may have assorted parts.

As for the table being beat up, you could get your sander and sand it down to improve the finish.  Not sure how 'beat up' it is, but if you have a Festool ROS it can certainly help.  Then apply some wax to it and and you're in business.  Again Jesse would be the first person I'd ask as he's likely seen all ranges of quality.

I have both a plexi and a formica covered MDF insert for the table (with longer rails) that I use on occasion.  There were several different rail lengths, so if you have the longer rails, you can easily formulate a wider table with wooden inserts that come flush.  Just use set screws to accurately level the top to the new insert for final adjustments.  PM me if you want photos.  You could also make an extension outfeed table if you need it, though I use a roller stand with pretty good results since adjusting the table will raise or lower whatever outfeed table / stand you use.

Many saw blade suppliers will bore the blades out to 20MM.  I have Freud and other makes.  You can use the Festool TS55 blades.  I think there was a discussion on the Yahoo board, but your depth of cut will be limited.  I use 8" blades most of the time on the saw as they let you bury the blade in the table for shallow cuts.  You can also run 10" blades, dado blades, wing cutters, etc if they are bored out.

My saw runs on 120 - you can likely rewire the motor to run at that voltage very easily by swapping a couple of wires.  It's usually on a diagram when you take the cover off the wiring box on the saw.  I'm on my second motor - the original wore about two years ago - after about 25 years of use.

As for maintenance and repair, in 25 years, I have disassembled my saw twice - to clean and align it.  It's a simple procedure.  Jesse likely has repair and parts manuals so you can see how it comes apart.  I used a little lithium grease, but it does not need much in the way of lubricant on the ways and adjustment screws.

Good luck and PM me if you have questions or need photos for inspiration.

neil

 

[Dane]

Awesome, just awesome.  I am amazed at the people that frequent this group, thanks so much.  I will pm you later today when I get home for some futher advice.  Unfortunately on the fence subject, I am missing the rails as well.  I may just see if I can make Incra fence work.  Thanks again.

 

[monte]

.

Good morning Dane,

Well Michael & Dane just about covered everything.
Just a few tidbits,,,,,

I actually just recently tried putting on a TS 55 blade and it works great & took pics. (Total height clearance is a tad over 1 inch) see pics below.......
My 259 is wired for 220 and it works great, my fear if you were to wire it for 110 that it might not have enough umph.
I recently had someone come over and rewire my Inca 710 bandsaws and 570 jointer/planer over from 110 to 220 and I prefer the added power.
It will work well with 110, but better with the 220.
General cleaning and lubing I do myself, but bearing changes I leave it for those that do it everyday - as Michael mentioned.
If you could get hold of a 710 bandsaw, you should. FYI the rails are interchangeable with the 259.
I have just about the full family of Incas, they work great for me and would hold on to them even if I got larger scale equipment.

cheers,
,,,,,,r

p.s. If you want a tracing for the riving knife, email me your address and I'll send you a tracing.

p.s. 2 The MFT 800 you see in the background is sitting on the bedlift's available at Bed bath & Beyond and brings the table up for almost a perfect outfeed table.(and yes the mft stays sturdy)      
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?order_num=-1&SKU=12106769

p.s.3 If you have the Inca stand that is with most 259's email me, there is a modification you should make on it.

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[Dane]

Great stuff, thanks Roger.  I'm going to shoot you an email.

 

[greg mann]

Bed Bath and Beyond, eh? Nobody can accuse Roger of being a Festool snob.  ;D

 

[NuggyBuggy]

A while back I bought an old Inca 259 saw.  I am trying to rehabilitate it (dirt and crapped packed in everywhere).  I was trying to figure out how to remove the arbor and drill chuck assembly when I found this old thread.  Hopefully people are still tracking it !

General cleaning and lubing I do myself, but bearing changes I leave it for those that do it everyday - as Michael mentioned.

I'm very new to this and not expert in things mechanical, but what's difficult about changing the bearings ? I've only changed bearings in rollerblades; is it here not just as simple as pushing them out with e.g. a socket ? It doesn't seem like setting the depth of the bearing would be critical.

Also, do any of you fine people know
a- whether the arbor bearings are sealed or not,
b- what size/type bearing they are (I might just replace them while I have the saw broken down)
c- how best to remove the arbor assembly
d- what size key is required for the mortising/drill chuck
e- how best to remove the drill chuck ?

The main part of the saw is almost completely broken down except for the arbor and components on it.

Thanks - terry

 

[MarkF]

Join in the Inca braintrust:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/incawoodworking/
Lots of help there.