Is my sawblade still sharp?

[Wim]

I guess my question falls in the category "Woodworking for Dummies", but encouraged by the topic "Why" I will put it forward.
I have the TS55 for several month now and used it quite regularly, mostly on firwood and some laminate. Now I have the impression the blade is getting dull. However I do not see any traces of wearing down, just some residu of resin(?) at the cut-back part of the teeth (behind the teeth).
Is there a methode of determining if a sawblade is dull yes or no. And when the blade is dull, is there a way to sharpen it with simple tools.
Are there rules to lengthen the life of the blades.

 

[Brice Burrell]

You can tell just by using it, however, your blade likely only needs to be cleaned not sharpened. I use over cleaner to clean my blades because it's fast, some people use friendlier cleaners. I spray on oven cleaner wait a minute or so, scrub the blade with a wire bush, I use a brass brush, flip it over and do the other side. Make sure you wear safety glasses if you use a harsh cleaner. If once you clean a blade and it still won't cut, it's time to sharpen, and you can't do it yourself, send it to be professional done. Here is a good place to use www.ridgecarbidetool.com
Good luck.
Brice

 

[Ted Miller]

Wim, I would say most of the blades that seem to be dull are only gummed up. Try to find a cleaner that is not harsh as it can cause problems on the brazings. I use a stiff nylon brush and I do not touch the teeth as well...

 

[Wim]

@ Brice & Ted
Thanks. I will start with cleaning. Then I will do a testrun.
Is the speedsetting a factor to get the impression of a dull blade.
I just think I have to push harder to get the wood through, a very subjective entity.
Sending the blade out for sharprning to the proposed company is not quite practical in my case as I live in Holland. I will have to check locally for a source.
I will post any results when they come available.

 

[Jeff W.]

Wim

Spray your blade with the household cleaner "Simple Green", let it soak for five to ten minutes.  Get an old toothbrush and brush the teeth on your saw blade, brush until all the residue comes off.  Then rinse the blade with water, yes water.  Now dry your blade off with a towel and let it sit out in the open air to dry off.  Simple Green is a great product for cleaning blades and router bits, and it's non-toxic.  I've been doing this to my blades for years and none of them have any rust on them from the water.  Some will get "nervy" about using water on a blade, it's fine.
Good luck, Jeff W.

 

[ScooterX]

since this was posted as a "woodworking for dummies" question (his term, not mine), let me just add that you should remove the blade from the saw before spraying anything on it.

 

[Les]

As a tool and die apprentice years ago, I was taught to check a tool for sharpness, scrape it along your thumb nail. If it is sharp, it will cut a continuous "chip" with little on no drag. If dull, it will drag or not cut your nail.

HTH

 

[Michael Kellough]

Wim

Spray your blade with the household cleaner "Simple Green", let it soak for five to ten minutes.  Get an old toothbrush and brush the teeth on your saw blade, brush until all the residue comes off.  Then rinse the blade with water, yes water.  Now dry your blade off with a towel and let it sit out in the open air to dry off.  Simple Green is a great product for cleaning blades and router bits, and it's non-toxic.  I've been doing this to my blades for years and none of them have any rust on them from the water.  Some will get "nervy" about using water on a blade, it's fine.
Good luck, Jeff W.

I use the same procedure but add a step after drying by spraying the blade with Dry Coat, a waxy substance that reduces gumming of the blade so it will last longer before needing to be cleaned again.

 

[Mirko]

You should only use hot running water from your sink, and use a nylon brush, do not use any wire brushes. The hot water will quickly melt off the resin, and the blades will last much longer. If anyone has concerns about rusting, this is not a problem, because the water is hot it will evaporate quickly and dry off on the blade.

Mirko

 

[Wim]

I have cleaned the blade with oven-cleaner and an (old ;-D) toothbrush and after that rinsed it with hot water. Dried with some tissues and the blade was shining like new. The teeth look sharp but I guess they have lost some of their initial bite. I have not tried the blade yet but after my holiday I will raise some sawdust... ummmh that was, with my DC.
Thank you all for your advise.

 

[Ted Miller]

Oven cleaners and most bit and blade cleaners are way to harsh on the brazing in which the teeth are attached to the plates. Same thing with brass or metal brushes. Use Orange hand cleaner, use a med to hard toothbrush to apply the cleaner, do not scrub it on just place it all around the teeth and 1/4" to 1/2" below the teeth, let sit for 5 minutes or more and scrub off the pitch and gum with the toothbrush then run under warm water. Dry with a towel then apply auto wax to the blade. Use a wax without silicone...

 

[Brice Burrell]

  I'm not trying to start trouble here, but I clean a lot of blades a year with oven cleaner and a brass brush. My $8 circular saw blades through to my $100+ Forrest blades. Never had an issue, Don't let the oven cleaner sit for long and don't scrub hard with the brush. I've been doing it this way for 15 years.

  If you are not comfortable using oven cleaner then do not use it, you won't hurt my feelings.

 

[Mirko]

Brice,
Have you tried hot running water? It dont have to be too hot, just enough that you will not burn your hands.

BTW if you chose to stick with the oven cleaner, keep it away from the guide rails, it will eat through the anodizing.
I have restored several Porsche wheels and, oven cleaner, and liquid drain-o
are what I use to remove the original silver anodizing.

Mirko

 

[Brice Burrell]

  After posting last night, something occurred to me. My being a general contractor my blades on any given day could see, Azek (PVC trim)pressure treater lumber, ABS/PVC pipe and and all manner of foul things. Hot water, citrus type cleaners aren't going to do the job, five minutes and I'm done when I use oven cleaner. I clean my blades when I have the tool in my hands, trying to make a cut, start swearing, thinking, I can't let this go any longer, why didn't I clean this blade the last time I used it, followed by more swearing as I take the blade off go and get the cleaner. This way it keeps my swearing to only a few minutes. 

 

[Wim]

I am afraid my blade is definitly dull. After returning from holiday, I cleaned the blade again and started sawing. I could feel no difference when pushing the wood against the blade.
When the blade was new, I could feel a certain eagerness of the blade. I did not have to push, just to steer. Now I have to push with a considerable force, there is some smell of burned wood and small black particles are flying around.
So I will have to buy a new blade and will also ask if the old blade can be grinded.
As I are mostly using firwood, I think a Panther-blade is OK. It is also a lot cheaper than the original blade (W48).

 

[Eelco]

In Holland an average price of ? 14,- to sharpen a W48 blade.
Good as new .Can be done several times.

 

[Brent b]

Hey Brice, I've heard that the caustic agents in oven cleaner can weaken the brazing bonds for the carbide chips.  Dunno if this is true but flying carbide would get my attention real quick.
Brent

 

[Brice Burrell]

Hey Brice, I've heard that the caustic agents in oven cleaner can weaken the brazing bonds for the carbide chips.  Dunno if this is true but flying carbide would get my attention real quick.
Brent

Brent, I've heard the same thing. I bet it's true. However, what does it take to get the brazing to a weakened state? Oven cleaner sitting on the blade for hours, time after time? Using oven cleaner on my blades have not been a problem yet, fifteen years of doing it this way. With that being said, the safest thing is to use a mild cleaner. Like you said flying carbide is an attention getter.

 

[Wim]

I have bought this afternoon a new blade, a W28. I thought the Panther-blade was too triggerhappy. I also wil try to find a company that can grind sawblades. Tomorrow I start with the new blade.

 

[richard.selwyn]

Felder (Austrian not German (see their yahoo user group) ) make a blade cleaner you dilute with water.  Its not aggressive, not expensive (in Europe at least) and seems to work very well and as it is sold by them to clean the blades they sell, I assume it wouldn't affect the brazing.  Visit the user group - they're all talking about Dominos at the moment!