Is Plug-it Cord for Domino XL special?

[Robonthejob]

Hi all.  Does the domino XL use a specific plug-it cord?  I have tried all my plug-it cords, and none of them will lock into place.  Thinking that perhaps the domino XL comes with a special one heavier gauge one and I have misplaced it.  Or does it use the regular plug-it and I have some other issue with the plug-it socket on my domino?  Thanks in advance for any comments!

 

[Muttley000]

I don’t have an XL but the plug on my track saw is keyed differently than my sander.  The heavier cord does work on the sander.  I bought an extra heavier cable and used Velcro straps to keep it with my vac hose so it works for everything, and keeps me from considering taking a short cut and always using dust collection. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

"In the US" there are 2 different Plug-it cables. They have different gauge wire inside them. The AMP draw of the tool is the determining factor. The "lighter duty" version comes with the "smaller" tools. That would be sanders, DF500 (small Domino), small routers (MFK700 etc)
The heavier tools get the thicker wire. OF1400, DF700 etc. The good news is that some smart engineers were involved. The heavier cable will fit on either, it just won't work the other way, as you have discovered.
There are a few methods of work involved here. Some guys connect the cable when the tool is new and virtually never remove it again. These are the ones who do not store the tool in the Systainer. (I don't recall any tool that fits back in the Systainer with the cable attached?)
There are guys who have to be mobile with there tools. I think some of them coil the cable up and store it in the Systainer. That way they can grab any tool, from the truck, and know they have the cable with them.
Others, me included, plug the heavier cable into a CT and just disconnect the tool at the end.

I'm still not really sure why Festool continues to maintain the 2 separate items? Except for the ends, there is virtually no difference in the user experience. It's not like you are dragging some huge thing around, where you notice a weight or stiffness issue.

I take the cables out of the Systainers of every new tool and store them in a specific drawer. I have 2 of the heavier ones out and connected to a CT on each end of my shop space. This puts all of the wear, that comes from daily use, on just these two. The others are virtually untouched, but there in case of damage.....which of course means I have never needed one [huh]

 

[jeffinsgf]

Like Muttley said, there are two Plug-It cords. The one supplied with the 1400, Domino 700, and larger track saws uses heavier gauge wire. The cord supplied with the 1010, sanders and other smaller tools uses lighter gauge wire. By the design of the connection, you can use the heavier gauge cord on anything, but you can't fit the lighter gauge wire to the heavier tools.

The solution is to find your D-700 cord and use it for everything. I have my sleeved with the dust extraction hose.

 

[jeffinsgf]

CRG...that is borderline spooky.  [big grin]

 

[Jim_in_PA]

As was just stated, there are two different weight cords. The heavier one will work in any tool; the lighter one will only work on the tools with less demand. They accomplish this with how the Plug It connector is "keyed". The lighter cords require two notches and the receptacle in the heavier tools only support one key, so you cannot insert it.

My recommendation is that if you have a cord "married" to your extractor hose, use the heavier version that works with any tool.

 

[Cheese]

Others, me included, plug the heavier cable into a CT and just disconnect the tool at the end.

All my CT's have the heavier 16 AWG cords attached. That makes tool switching a lot easier.

 

[rmhinden]

Hi all.  Does the domino XL use a specific plug-it cord?  I have tried all my plug-it cords, and none of them will lock into place.  Thinking that perhaps the domino XL comes with a special one heavier gauge one and I have misplaced it.  Or does it use the regular plug-it and I have some other issue with the plug-it socket on my domino?  Thanks in advance for any comments!

To clarify, if the plug-it cord goes into the domino XL but doesn't turn, then it is not a cord compatibility problem.  If the XL requires the heavier gauge cord and if you are trying to use the smaller gauge cord, it can't be inserted at all. 

Bob

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Hi all.  Does the domino XL use a specific plug-it cord?  I have tried all my plug-it cords, and none of them will lock into place.  Thinking that perhaps the domino XL comes with a special one heavier gauge one and I have misplaced it.  Or does it use the regular plug-it and I have some other issue with the plug-it socket on my domino?  Thanks in advance for any comments!

To clarify, if the plug-it cord goes into the domino XL but doesn't turn, then it is not a cord compatibility problem.  If the XL requires the heavier gauge cord and if you are trying to use the smaller gauge cord, it can't be inserted at all. 

Bob

Right. If it can be inserted, it's the correct cable. The "not turning" is another issue. A fresh new cable may be a little stiff, but it should go. It seems like they "wear in", because some of mine are a little harder to turn, but they are also the least often used.

CRG...that is borderline spooky.  [big grin]

Typing at the same time.

 

[Coen]

Some guys connect the cable when the tool is new and virtually never remove it again. These are the ones who do not store the tool in the Systainer. (I don't recall any tool that fits back in the Systainer with the cable attached?)

TS 55, ETS 125, RTS 400, DTS 400, PS 300 (see here for the best PS 300 Systainer); all fit in the Systainer with the Plug-It cord attached. And then I'm probably forgetting about some more tools that I may or may not even own.

I'm still not really sure why Festool continues to maintain the 2 separate items? Except for the ends, there is virtually no difference in the user experience. It's not like you are dragging some huge thing around, where you notice a weight or stiffness issue.

Meanwhile the rest of the world wonders why the US continues with 110 Volts, oversized cars and a medieval system of weights and measures. I hear that it's hard to change. Well, Festool adapted to that  [tongue]

In 230V land we have one type of Plug-It cord; the light one, that works for everything. Well, country-specific in the sense that the Brits use a different plug on the outlet side etc.

 

[epicxt]

Not sure if things have changed since I purchased the Domino XL several years ago, but mine is keyed for the lighter-weight cords that the sanders, OF-1010, etc. use.

That being said, the force required to turn/lock the plug-it into place is substantially higher than any other tool I have.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Some guys connect the cable when the tool is new and virtually never remove it again. These are the ones who do not store the tool in the Systainer. (I don't recall any tool that fits back in the Systainer with the cable attached?)

TS 55, ETS 125, RTS 400, DTS 400, PS 300 (see here for the best PS 300 Systainer); all fit in the Systainer with the Plug-It cord attached. And then I'm probably forgetting about some more tools that I may or may not even own.

I'm still not really sure why Festool continues to maintain the 2 separate items? Except for the ends, there is virtually no difference in the user experience. It's not like you are dragging some huge thing around, where you notice a weight or stiffness issue.

Meanwhile the rest of the world wonders why the US continues with 110 Volts, oversized cars and a medieval system of weights and measures. I hear that it's hard to change. Well, Festool adapted to that  [tongue]

In 230V land we have one type of Plug-It cord; the light one, that works for everything. Well, country-specific in the sense that the Brits use a different plug on the outlet side etc.

You have no idea how much I wish we would drag this country into the current decade (century for that matter)
The cars are somewhat a response to the size of our roads. We have a very ugly system of roads and everything is car oriented. With very few exceptions out cities are not "walkable". I have a grocery store almost exactly 1 mile from home, but you would be taking quite a risk to try to walk to it.

Metric is completely different and wouldn't be hard to change, not sure why we still hold onto inch/fraction.
In the late 60s, when I was in elementary school (primary school in some places) they taught us metric, explaining that it would be coming soon. Apparently the resistance of the adults outweighed it? The problem is that older folks can only think of it as a conversion, since the inch/fractional system is more familiar. The problem I see with that theory is that so many people are clueless about that too.
Pretty much anyone, who doesn't use math/measurement in their job, is lacking.

Electricity, honestly I am not sure. The US low-voltage is all I have ever known. 220/240v is for comparatively large items only. Ovens, clothes dryers, and air conditioners are just about it. Most Americans have never unplugged a higher voltage appliance, these are effectively "built-ins"
Efficiency-wise, I'm sure it would be better, but I would imagine the safety factor would raise concerns.
People do dumb stuff. I see bad cords all the time, stretched, cracked, ground prongs broken off, etc.
These folks would be injured or worse.
The part I don't understand it the British thing of 120v on jobsites? A "professional" construction worker cannot be trusted with the ordinary 240v power that his wife uses at home for the tea kettle? Make that make sense.

Plug-it cable fitment. The TS55 may have something to do with the particular insert you have. I'm pretty sure there are at least a few. I don't think mine would? but I never tried. Mine loads in from the left, and I'm sure I have seen others that load from the right.

Not sure if things have changed since I purchased the Domino XL several years ago, but mine is keyed for the lighter-weight cords that the sanders, OF-1010, etc. use.

It may still be that way? I don't know, I don't have one. It would make sense though, don't they only draw 700 watts? That is the point of the name isn't it? That's the same as the MFK700 and less than the OF1010.

 

[smorgasbord]

One thing that I noticed when visiting the UK is that they don't have power outlets in bathrooms. Because 240 volts and water is a dangerous combination.

Now, they do put amp-limited "shaver only" two prong outlets in some bathrooms, but those are isolated from the mains and can't take the normal 3-prong plug.

But yeah, it would be great for power tools and car charging to have 240 volt outlets as everywhere normally.

 

[Coen]

Some guys connect the cable when the tool is new and virtually never remove it again. These are the ones who do not store the tool in the Systainer. (I don't recall any tool that fits back in the Systainer with the cable attached?)

TS 55, ETS 125, RTS 400, DTS 400, PS 300 (see here for the best PS 300 Systainer); all fit in the Systainer with the Plug-It cord attached. And then I'm probably forgetting about some more tools that I may or may not even own.

I'm still not really sure why Festool continues to maintain the 2 separate items? Except for the ends, there is virtually no difference in the user experience. It's not like you are dragging some huge thing around, where you notice a weight or stiffness issue.

Meanwhile the rest of the world wonders why the US continues with 110 Volts, oversized cars and a medieval system of weights and measures. I hear that it's hard to change. Well, Festool adapted to that  [tongue]

In 230V land we have one type of Plug-It cord; the light one, that works for everything. Well, country-specific in the sense that the Brits use a different plug on the outlet side etc.

You have no idea how much I wish we would drag this country into the current decade (century for that matter)
The cars are somewhat a response to the size of our roads. We have a very ugly system of roads and everything is car oriented. With very few exceptions out cities are not "walkable". I have a grocery store almost exactly 1 mile from home, but you would be taking quite a risk to try to walk to it.

Metric is completely different and wouldn't be hard to change, not sure why we still hold onto inch/fraction.
In the late 60s, when I was in elementary school (primary school in some places) they taught us metric, explaining that it would be coming soon. Apparently the resistance of the adults outweighed it? The problem is that older folks can only think of it as a conversion, since the inch/fractional system is more familiar. The problem I see with that theory is that so many people are clueless about that too.
Pretty much anyone, who doesn't use math/measurement in their job, is lacking.

The joke is that the inch itself is a conversion, since they changed the inch to be exactly 25.4mm

Electricity, honestly I am not sure. The US low-voltage is all I have ever known. 220/240v is for comparatively large items only. Ovens, clothes dryers, and air conditioners are just about it. Most Americans have never unplugged a higher voltage appliance, these are effectively "built-ins"
Efficiency-wise, I'm sure it would be better, but I would imagine the safety factor would raise concerns.
People do dumb stuff. I see bad cords all the time, stretched, cracked, ground prongs broken off, etc.
These folks would be injured or worse.

I think I have gone more into depth about this before, but electrocution deaths (not counting the chair) aren't more in European 230V countries compared to USA 110V. There are now very reliable RCD's that didn't exist 80 years ago.

But this kinda fits in the same line as the overhead outdoor wiring. With every tornado stuff gets knocked down all over the place. This morning I got up and I always hear the morning news on the radio annex alarm clock. It said ">1 million Americans still without electricity, Biden told army to help". And then I think... isn't it about time you bury that medium voltage grid...?

Anything below 110 kV is buried here. We don't care about the wind for that. In the short term it's expensive to bury it. In the long run it pays off. Same would apply to going 230V.

In the Netherlands we converted from 127V to 220V about 60 years ago. That was possible to do gradually by just connecting in between the phases; connected in between phase and neutral; get 127. Connect in between two phases; get 220. But with the US split phase system... not as easy to do.

The part I don't understand it the British thing of 120v on jobsites? A "professional" construction worker cannot be trusted with the ordinary 240v power that his wife uses at home for the tea kettle? Make that make sense.

Jobsite brings more chances for damage with it. Their jobsite 110V is actually 55V phase-ground. The UK does a lot of things differently. Look at their current's regime interpretation of free speech and you will understand the insane difference...

Plug-it cable fitment. The TS55 may have something to do with the particular insert you have. I'm pretty sure there are at least a few. I don't think mine would? but I never tried. Mine loads in from the left, and I'm sure I have seen others that load from the right.

Yes a bunch of different inlays have existed over the years, some not being compatible to fit the FS-WA/90. And the inlay was also changed to no longer have to detach the newer design dust port. But the cord? I don't think so seeing where it actually is on a TS 55.

 

[mino]

One thing that I noticed when visiting the UK is that they don't have power outlets in bathrooms. Because 240 volts and water is a dangerous combination.
..

The (post WW2) UK electrical standards are a mess and recovering only slowly, nothing to do with voltage. Their economy was in tatters, so all the standards, not just for wiring, were made to be frugal on resources. That is also why the fuses are in plugs .. so that wiring lenghts are not limited in the economy "circle" wiring designs used. *)

As for no power at bathrooms, that is related to no GFCI being required /up until recently/. GFCI is a must for a safe outlet in a wet setting OR if grouding is not reliable. European wiring in cities used shared-ground (TN-C) and 2-wires only that allow for good safety without GFCI at the cost of needing multiple houses to pitch-in for that reliable ground. The limitation is that this does not work good-enough in a wet setting /dryer falling in a tub style/. So electric appliances were just not used in bathrooms.

That said, 110V + water will kill you as efficiently as 230/240V + water will .. unless your heart can do 50/60 rpm. The advantage of the lower voltage is only in a dry setting. Even then it is questionable. Do not look at 120V as something "safe" to touch.

The actual safe voltage for AC is much lower - in the 24V-48V range. In a wet/conductive setting, even 24V AC can kill. In a dry setting, the safe voltage for AC is only 50V, though 24V AC is the max widely used. For good reasons. Anything above 50V AC is in the "high voltage" safety category. For good reasons. It does not really matter if 120V or 400V, the mechanism in how it is dangerous is the same up to about 1000V. It kills by having your heart do 50 rpm, not by burning. DC does not do that.

What gets people confused is the safe DC voltage *is* up to around 120V. This is why it was chosen when Edison made his US networks, they were safe. Because they were 120V and DC. Not anymore.

Once the original Edison-style DC grids were switched to AC, the safety went away, yet the disadvantages of a low voltage stayed .. I guess it was just tolerated post-WW2 simply because US was truly rich during the period, so the wasting on Copper was not a big-enough issue. And once the country was electrified, it became impossible to change/fix.

EDIT:
In a dry setting, the "safe voltage" for AC is 50V, not 60V as  wronly remembered .. derives from human skin resistivity and minimum current for heart arrest, or something along those lines.

*) Czechoslovakia had similar issues - copper had to be imported which was frowned upon - here we addressed it by widely using aluminum wiring in new concrete/brick constructions /where it can be done safely/, "releasing" copper for wiring old houses. This results in old mud-brick houses wired in 1960/1970s having better wiring than new-built houses from the same periods. No much to burn inside a concrete/brick wall, unlike in a half-wooden house from 1800s.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

The part I don't understand it the British thing of 120v on jobsites? A "professional" construction worker cannot be trusted with the ordinary 240v power that his wife uses at home for the tea kettle? Make that make sense.

It's 110v CRG - but I'll allow it. The simple answer is that construction sites carry way more inherent risks and hazards than wives standing in kitchens making cups of tea. Kettle cords don't get accidentally severed by excavator tracks, accidentally cut by falling glass shards, accidentally shredded by power saws, accidentally melted by blowtorches, accidentally dropped into buckets of wet plaster, or accidentally dropped from such a height that the plug pulls right off the cord leaving exposed, live wires which will inevitably drop into a huge sea of water because this is the UK and it's 99.999999% likely to be raining. So you now have the even greater hazard of an electric lake. There are a zillion other scenarios.

Just one notable memory from my construction-site past - being on a roof in biblical rain, cutting through old purlins with a 240v circular saw. The shock I received threw me right off the roof, and if it hadn't been surrounded by scaffolding, I wouldn't be typing this. I still have the burn scars on my hands to this day.

A drop from 240v to 110v would have massively reduced the impact of that event. Like many, many other things in life - these 'pain in  the ass' regulations all exist because folks have either been severely injured - or they're dead.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

The UK does a lot of things differently. Look at their current's regime interpretation of free speech and you will understand the insane difference...

Unfair, inaccurate, unnecessary and grossly offensive. You should be ashamed of yourself for this post.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Yeah mino, at this point it is probably just too big of a monster to wrestle. Changing all of that wire, fittings, etc. is just to cost prohibitive. Burying the main transmission lines is "kind of" a work in progress. Almost all of the new construction is done that way, has been for years. The old stuff, it just depends. Sometimes they do updates, but just to bury, it's not in any kind of upgrade in performance.

As far as killing people, absolutely 120v will do that.

Aluminum wire was used quite a bit back in the 1970s. Apparently there were problems with that though? Something about bad connections? I'm not sure. I think it has to be replaced whenever it gets "exposed". A lot of old standards are perfectly acceptable (while inside the walls), but any kind of construction/remodeling that opens up the walls, requires replacement (up to current code)

The part I don't understand it the British thing of 120v on jobsites? A "professional" construction worker cannot be trusted with the ordinary 240v power that his wife uses at home for the tea kettle? Make that make sense.

It's 110v CRG - but I'll allow it. The simple answer is that construction sites carry way more inherent risks and hazards than wives standing in kitchens making cups of tea. Kettle cords don't get accidentally severed by excavator tracks, accidentally cut by falling glass shards, accidentally shredded by power saws, accidentally melted by blowtorches, accidentally dropped into buckets of wet plaster, or accidentally dropped from such a height that the plug pulls right off the cord leaving exposed, live wires which will inevitably drop into a huge sea of water because this is the UK and it's 99.999999% likely to be raining. So you now have the even greater hazard of an electric lake. There are a zillion other scenarios.

Just one notable memory from my construction-site past - being on a roof in biblical rain, cutting through old purlins with a 240v circular saw. The shock I received threw me right off the roof, and if it hadn't been surrounded by scaffolding, I wouldn't be typing this. I still have the burn scars on my hands to this day.

A drop from 240v to 110v would have massively reduced the impact of that event. Like many, many other things in life - these 'pain in  the ass' regulations all exist because folks have either been severely injured - or they're dead.

Yes, sorry. I don't know how many times I have referred to US power as 110 and have someone "correct" me, even though it isn't the 120 they claim. Most people are running somewhere around 108.
The water thing is what makes me question it. 110/120 is not safe around water either.
As far as job-site "accidents", those guys are the ones who should be paying attention to stuff like that.
If a guy runs over a power cable with an excavator, he probably needs to be assaulted in some way.

The tea kettle has water in it too.... [big grin] It just freaks me out that the simplest little household appliances are high voltage [unsure]

I'm sure that folks who have grown up with (and lived their whole lives with) that higher voltage most just become used to it.

 

[Coen]

50/60 rpm

3000/3600

The UK does a lot of things differently. Look at their current's regime interpretation of free speech and you will understand the insane difference...

Unfair, inaccurate, unnecessary and grossly offensive. You should be ashamed of yourself for this post.

Unfair = opinion
inaccurate = opinion
unnecessary = opinion
offensive = opinion

Good thing a sea protects me from the government that (pre->2022 Russia's war anyway) arrests more people for "wrong tweets" than Russia.

 

[mino]

...
Aluminum wire was used quite a bit back in the 1970s. Apparently there were problems with that though? Something about bad connections? I'm not sure. I think it has to be replaced whenever it gets "exposed". A lot of old standards are perfectly acceptable (while inside the walls), but any kind of construction/remodeling that opens up the walls, requires replacement (up to current code)
...

Aluminum wiring has a problem that over time the connections where it connects with other metal copper/tin will corode if exposed to air, causing arcing. The oxidation which protects the wire normally will "grow" into the joint if air is around. This can be remediated using special fat/paste. Which was *not* done in residential wiring. The remediation was that after 5 years, all screwed endings were to be re-tightened ... no one did that ... so after 30+ years the sockets are pretty common to burn out.

In a professional setting (think gauge 3/0 and thicker) it is used widely as it is very economical for ground-laying trunk lines etc.

The specific situation over here is that when all the wiring is inside a concrete or brick wall, the wiring boxes and accessories are make of bakelite (so they are incapable of propagating a fire), this is a non-issue from the safety perspective. In theory ..

The real issue /over here/ started in 1980s is when people started replacing the "old and clunky" bakelite boxes and switches with "modern" ones from thermoplastics that are all too happy to burn, or emit a LOT of toxic PFAS stuff to retard the fire when heated too much. This still did not cause many fires, not much to burn in a concrete wall .. but did raise alarms.

Was forbidden for new installations some time in 1990s - in a residential setting, the probability of people to screw it up are just too high.

The moment you have this in a stick-frame house ... you better have good arc-protection breakers ..