Is the MFK 700 0 degree base necessary?

[fritter63]

Hi all just a quick question. Getting ready to order my MFK 700 and wondering if I should get the 0 degree base as well?

Does the 1.5 do a close enough job, even on wider facing? Ie, would it be noticeable enough that I'd ever say "Should have made that straight".

I know that's a bit of a judgement call....

Thanks

 

[PaulMarcel]

I'd get the 0º base.  IIRC, on a 3/4" profile, you'll be off square by 20 thou on the far side (a fat 64th)

Edit: I was assuming you are using it to flush; if it doesn't need to fit in a square dado (banded shelf to side) or similar, it may not matter at all.

 

[Jason Kehl]

I purchased the 0 degree base and use it on wider edge banding. I found that the standard base left a noticable slope to what "should" be a square edge.

Jason

 

[tbellemare]

If you're doing laminate countertops or similar, you also might want the zero-degree base.

Tom

 

[davee]

In addition to edge banding, the 700 is nice for small dados (such as for cabinet backs or drawer bottoms).  I've made sliding dovetails as well.  Each of these other tasks uses the 0 degree base.

 

[fritter63]

In addition to edge banding, the 700 is nice for small dados (such as for cabinet backs or drawer bottoms).  I've made sliding dovetails as well.  Each of these other tasks uses the 0 degree base.

Doh , good point, I overlooked that in all the vids I've been watching!

 

[Brice Burrell]

In addition to edge banding, the 700 is nice for small dados (such as for cabinet backs or drawer bottoms).  I've made sliding dovetails as well.  Each of these other tasks uses the 0 degree base.

[blink] You'd use the vertical base for dados and sliding dovetails. 

 

[davee]

In addition to edge banding, the 700 is nice for small dados (such as for cabinet backs or drawer bottoms).  I've made sliding dovetails as well.  Each of these other tasks uses the 0 degree base.

[blink] You'd use the vertical base for dados and sliding dovetails. 

You are correct!  I use it right but speak it wrong.

 

[fritter63]

In addition to edge banding, the 700 is nice for small dados (such as for cabinet backs or drawer bottoms).  I've made sliding dovetails as well.  Each of these other tasks uses the 0 degree base.

[blink] You'd use the vertical base for dados and sliding dovetails. 

Well, not if you're Chris....

horizontal sliding dovetails with the MFK 700

 

[Sparktrician]

If you're doing laminate countertops or similar, you also might want the zero-degree base.

Tom

Hmmm...  That's the last place I would use the 0° base, Tom.  It's far too easy to damage the laminate if you're even a hair too low in your adjustment.  This is where the 1.5° base really shines in that you can sneak up on the trimmed edge and blend it without worrying about getting the bit too close to the surface that you don't want to damage.  I do find the 0° base wonderful for trimming shelf edges when I've used iron-on banding to get it almost to dead on, then hand sand the edge to get it dead nuts on. 

[smile]

 

[Nick C]

Yes. In my opinion the 0-deg base is necessary. In fact, I don't think the 1.5-deg base is necessary at all, but I don't think Festool will allow you to substitute one for the other when purchasing the kit. The 1.5-deg base leaves a "ramp" that creates a noticeable ridge where edge meets panel. This can be sanded or planed flush (usually--depending on the panel material), but that's another step--another tool--in the workflow. I think a better approach is to use the 1-deg base and simply make a test cut, then tweak the adjustment (like we do with router depth adjustments) or, better yet, just use a cutter with a pilot bearing for the desired "insurance." I use the OF 1010 for edge trimming, and its accessory base is 0-deg (i.e., 90-deg to the main base) and I have never had a problem using the piloted bit. With its improved ergonomics for this application, I would not expect any difficulty doing this with the MFK.

 

[tbellemare]

Willy:

If you apply the edge laminate first, you might want the 0-degree base to trim the top of it flush prior to applying the top. Once the top is applied, there are bits for the MFK that will finish that edge in one pass using the vertical base.

I'm no laminate expert. I learned that from a customer...

Tom

 

[Sparktrician]

Willy:

If you apply the edge laminate first, you might want the 0-degree base to trim the top of it flush prior to applying the top. Once the top is applied, there are bits for the MFK that will finish that edge in one pass using the vertical base.

I'm no laminate expert. I learned that from a customer...

Tom

In this circumstance, I concur completely, Tom. 

[smile]