Is there a better way to trim edge banding?

[Vanquish]

Hey guys, I'm looking for a better, faster and cleaner way to trim my edge banding. I'm just finishing up a job that required about 250' of maple iron on edge banding, and I have another one coming up at the end of the month. The last job I did, I used a FastCap quad trimmer, and I was not impressed with the results. 

This time I tried using my small Ridgid trim router with a Freud bevel trim bit. Since it's a bit tricky balancing the router on the edge of the board, I set the bit so it would leave about 1/64" or less of banding on each side in case I tilted the router a bit, that way it wouldn't cut into the face of the plywood. Then I came back with a 1" chisel to trim it flush and remove the left over glue so it wouldn't gunk up my sanding discs.

A bit time consuming, and that router made a terrible mess, hot glue sawdust all over the shop, but it resulted in the most perfect edge banding trim job I've done. And I only went through 2 discs for my sander. [smile]

Are there any tips or other tools I could use to make this process faster and less tedious?

Thanks!

 

[tiralie]

Mfk 700 with zero degree base and no file trim bit or similar.
Very fast on de setup, and very little sanding.
Tim

 

[tjbnwi]

MFK 700 here also.

Tom

 

[semenza]

I use the Fast Cap Carbide Quad trimmer BUT, I found that it works much better when taken apart and used as a single edge trimmer rather than a double edge trimmer.

I have not used the 700 for thin glue on banding. I generally use the Fast Cap peel and stick for this type and I just don't think that adhesive would go well in the router.

Seth

 

[flair woodworks]

The MFK 700 with 1.5 degree base would be my choice for power tools.  It's very stable, can be adjusted in very fine increments, and does a good job relatively quickly.

If the material is not prone to having the grain run when cutting it with an edge tool (e.g. you can cut with the grain), I find that a block plane with the blade set flush to the sole and the toe piece removed does a very good job very quickly.  Or you can use a dedicated tool such as the Veritas Cabinetmaker's Trimming Plane.

 

[live4ever]

You can make a base similar to this one:
https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/plans-projects/flush-trim-router-jig

I use a much smaller version with my Dewalt 611.  Works great, and also the reason I haven't justified a MFK700.

 

[Brent Taylor]

I've used a edge trimmer made by Virutex,  I had it for 30 plus years, so it may not be made anymore,  if it is mine is a single edge reversible,  orange in colour.  Other than that I use a laminate router with a jig for cutting edge banding,  mine is made of plywood,  hundreds of them are online,  flush cut router jigs should get you there.

 

[Sparktrician]

I'm sticking with my MFK 700, too.  Depending upon the material being trimmed, I may use either the 0° or 1.5° base. 

 

[bertv]

As it happens earlier this week I had a talk with an oldtimer cabinet builder about this. He used a sharp chisel for man made edge banding (in other words: plastic and such) and sandpaper for the veneer kind. Seeing him cut banding with a chisel I said to myself ‘I will never be able to do that…’

 

[tiralie]

As it happens earlier this week I had a talk with an oldtimer cabinet builder about this. He used a sharp chisel for ma made edge banding (in other words: plastic and such) and sandpaper for the veneer kind. Seeing him cut banding with a chisel I said to myself ‘I will never be able to do that…’

I used to use a box cutter...worked well as long as they are sharp, but you have to pay attention and keep the bladea right angle to the edge otherwise you slice the veneer or melamine off. Works way better than those stupid Virutex double edge cutters.
I suppose you could use a cabinet triming plane as well.
Tim

 

[Roseland]

How about an OF1010 with the edge banding accessories?  It works well enough for me, and is a lot less expensive than a dedicated router such as an MFK 700.

Andrew

 

[leakyroof]

How about an OF1010 with the edge banding accessories?  It works well enough for me, and is a lot less expensive than a dedicated router such as an MFK 700.

Andrew

  Got a picture of your set-up?  I own a OF1010 but haven't had a need to do any edge banding during this past year.  [tongue]

 

[Brice Burrell]

How about an OF1010 with the edge banding accessories?  It works well enough for me, and is a lot less expensive than a dedicated router such as an MFK 700.

Andrew

  Got a picture of your set-up?  I own a OF1010 but haven't had a need to do any edge banding during this past year.  [tongue]

I've got a short piece on these accessories on my blog, Festool edge routing accessories.

 

[Vanquish]

I know almost nothing about the mfk700. Is it more of a dedicated timing router, or can it handle other tasks as well?

Chris, I was actually just looking at that cabinet makers plane last week. I assume if the blade is sharp enough, it wouldn't tear the banding when you cut it? That was the problem I was having with the quad trimmer. Maybe it was a combination of that and the maple banding I was using, but it was kind of stringy like, and would rip it rather than cut.

What sort of attachment do you use for the of1010? The router isn't too bulky to trim smaller pieces?

 

[Roseland]

How about an OF1010 with the edge banding accessories?  It works well enough for me, and is a lot less expensive than a dedicated router such as an MFK 700.

Andrew

  Got a picture of your set-up?  I own a OF1010 but haven't had a need to do any edge banding during this past year.  [tongue]

I've got a short piece on these accessories on my blog, Festool edge routing accessories.

Brice, thanks you for providing the link, I was otherwise going to post it myself.  It was your original post that persuaded me to get the OF1010 and accessories, a purchase I've never regretted!

Andrew

 

[leakyroof]

How about an OF1010 with the edge banding accessories?  It works well enough for me, and is a lot less expensive than a dedicated router such as an MFK 700.

Andrew

  Got a picture of your set-up?  I own a OF1010 but haven't had a need to do any edge banding during this past year.  [tongue]

I've got a short piece on these accessories on my blog, Festool edge routing accessories.

  Thanks Brice, that was very helpful.. [cool]

 

[junk731]

I've personally tried every method mentioned here except for the Virtutex and the CCW jig, if your a professional get the MFK700 if you want simplicity and speed. Its the only way I've found to get consistently great results. The next best is the OF1010 attachments if you have that router. Every other method depends on the type of material being trimmed as to whether you get consistently good results.

John

 

[flair woodworks]

Chris, I was actually just looking at that cabinet makers plane last week. I assume if the blade is sharp enough, it wouldn't tear the banding when you cut it? That was the problem I was having with the quad trimmer. Maybe it was a combination of that and the maple banding I was using, but it was kind of stringy like, and would rip it rather than cut.

Well, I wouldn't even try with a dull blade.  If the grain runs straight and you can work it in the correct direction, it should work well and give you a nice smooth surface.  However, since there is nothing to control tearout or keep the grain from "running" (splitting ahead of the blade), it will not fare well at all against the grain.  You could also try a shear cut towards the material - that should help, too.

 

[semenza]

So are you guys using the 700 (or 1010) to trim thin edge banding (tape) that has really sticky adhesive on it? I just want to know how well that works out.

Seth

 

[rnt80]

Hahaha. Exactly what I was thinking, Seth.  I used the 1010 years ago and it was a mess.  I ended up with adhesive all over the bit and the router base.

So are you guys using the 700 (or 1010) to trim thin edge banding (tape) that has really sticky adhesive on it? I just want to know how well that works out.

Seth