Jigsaw purchase -- please push me over the edge!!

Toolpig

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Jan 25, 2007
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I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a new jigsaw.  I want a barrel-grip and have it narrowed down to the newest Bosch and the Festool Trion.

Forget the price and forget about dust collection.

I want a jigsaw that lets me see the blade on the cut-line!  I've read numerous complaints about not being able to see the blade on the cut-line when using the Festool (with or without dust collection).  I've read about tricks like using fabric softener sheets to reduce "static cling" on the chip catcher, etc.  But I don't want to mess around with that.  I want it perfect out of the box.

Comments?

TP
 
Toolpig said:
I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a new jigsaw.  I want a barrel-grip and have it narrowed down to the newest Bosch and the Festool Trion.

Forget the price and forget about dust collection.

I want a jigsaw that lets me see the blade on the cut-line!  I've read numerous complaints about not being able to see the blade on the cut-line when using the Festool (with or without dust collection).  I've read about tricks like using fabric softener sheets to reduce "static cling" on the chip catcher, etc.  But I don't want to mess around with that.  I want it perfect out of the box.

Comments?

TP

You'll have to wait till they come out with a barell grip band saw then  ;)

You can't have visibility without dust extraction and you can't get enough vacuum to control the dust without a shroud in front of the saw, if you are using the standard rear mount vac hose. You can use reverse tooth blades without dust extraction and have fairly good visibility but you have to be more conscious of holding the saw steady. For better visibility cut from underneath the work with a regular blade.

I usually remove the shroud but tape a more flexible (non-Festool) vac hose to the side of the front shoe to pull dust sideways away from the blade.
 
I own both and the visibility is equal without DC stuff attached. They are both great jig saws and you will probably be happy with either one. That said there are times the DC on the Festool comes in real handy and it seems the jig saw I pick up first (with or without DC application) is the Festool.
 
I have been told that even with dust collection, it's hard to see the blade on the cut-line with the Festool Trion.  Is that your experience?

TP

Michael Kellough said:
Toolpig said:
I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a new jigsaw.  I want a barrel-grip and have it narrowed down to the newest Bosch and the Festool Trion.

Forget the price and forget about dust collection.

I want a jigsaw that lets me see the blade on the cut-line!  I've read numerous complaints about not being able to see the blade on the cut-line when using the Festool (with or without dust collection).  I've read about tricks like using fabric softener sheets to reduce "static cling" on the chip catcher, etc.  But I don't want to mess around with that.  I want it perfect out of the box.

Comments?

TP

You'll have to wait till they come out with a barell grip band saw then  ;)

You can't have visibility without dust extraction and you can't get enough vacuum to control the dust without a shroud in front of the saw, if you are using the standard rear mount vac hose. You can use reverse tooth blades without dust extraction and have fairly good visibility but you have to be more conscious of holding the saw steady. For better visibility cut from underneath the work with a regular blade.

I usually remove the shroud but tape a more flexible (non-Festool) vac hose to the side of the front shoe to pull dust sideways away from the blade.
 
Toolpig said:
I have been told that even with dust collection, it's hard to see the blade on the cut-line with the Festool Trion.  Is that your experience?

TP

Naturally it's more difficult to see the blade on the cutline with the splinter guard and dust shroud in place. Wiping the plastic parts with a fabric softener cloth does help. You only have to do it once and the dust is easy to blow off for a long time. But it's still more difficult to see the cutline with the above equipment in place. Those who use the jigsaw a lot say you can get used to it and get very good results. I don't use the saw that often so I cut upsidedown when possible. Also, the vac hose impedes scrolling. (This is where the boom arm would really be useful.)

Frankly, I usually use my old Bosch DVS (the first dustless jigsaw that I'd heard of but the dust collection is pathetic) jigsaw without any the plastic in front (it also came with a shroud and splinter guard). The main reason I use the Bosch even though I own a Trion is because I have a table accessory for the Bosch that clamps to a bench and holds the saw upside down so it can function as a scroll saw. So that kit (in a Systainer 2) is what I take out of the shop since I seldom need to cut anything thicker than 3/4". If I had to cut thick stuff often in the field I'd use the Trion more. The Trion blade really is more stable in the cut. In the shop the bandsaw is the tool for that.

This is not to put the Trion down, I think it is the best jigsaw available but not by as much of a margin as the circular saw. If the table accessory my Bosch fits was available for the Trion I'd use the Trion all the time.
 
I don't find it terribly difficult to see the cut line with one requirement.  You MUST have a separate splinter guard for each blade and orbital setting.  I have a whole pile of these inserts marked and stored in the systainer.  You can clearly see the cut-out in the splinter guard if you aren't using the DC shroud.  Some people here have suggested using a Sharpie to mark it, but I haven't found that to be necessary.
 
I am a professional carpenter and woodworker. I love festool. I own a TS75, CT22, Domino, Rotex 150, OF1400, RTS400.

I had a PS2 jigsaw but it was stolen. I have the older bosch jigsaw with a colins coping foot and the newer bosch with blade guides.

Bosch 1590 vs Festool:

Visibility of the cutline is far superior with the bosch.
Blade guiding system for perpendicular cuts is a tie.
dust collection goes to festool.
Ease of use goes to the bosch.
Festool blades are higher quality but you can us them with the bosch.
The Festool may be a higher quality machine in build but the cost isnt justified by its performance.

My vote is for the bosch.
 
I agree I had an old Bosch for years and I have just replaced it with a new one but not the one with the jaws that guide the blade. I bought the same one that I had before with screw driver to fit the blades its simple reliable and at ?115 its cheaper than the fancy one.

As regards Festool I am not one of these people who has to have everything Festool I have just bought my first bits the TS55 and CT MIDI and they are great. Things like the jigsaw I cant see how you can beat the bosch which has always been known as THE jigsaw and the best thing they make.

 
Went to Woodcraft to try one out.  Picked it up and knew instantly is wasn't for me.

I'm left-handed.  The switch, which is located on the side, digs into my left hand.

Bummer, this sort of things happens to me a lot.

I'm now looking at the Milwaukee 6276-21 and the Metabo STW 135 PLUS because both have the switch on top of the housing.  Anybody have one of these?

I know the switch issue sounds trivial, but comfort is a big deal for me.  Oh well.

TP
 
The last jigsaw I owned in the states was a Hilti D grip. It was fantastic. I bought it because they were out of Bosch the day I went to HD. You could see the cutline well, it had integrated DC (although I never used it). The action was so smooth you could take out the blade and lock the trigger on and put it on the concrete and it wouldn't even 'walk'. I gave it to a really good friend as a gift when I left, knowing I'd be insulted by what someone would pay to buy it off me.
 
Jeez, with a name like tool pig I would think you'd own several of each already! ;D 

I'm curious if anyone has been able to test Festool's claim that the Trion can cut straight through 4 3/4" beams, and how the Bosch stacks up against such ability.  Seems like if Trion can cut through 4x stock clean and straight and the Bosch deflects, even with a trion blade, then Festool has upped the ante.  I have both the Bosch and Trion and find that the Trion overall feels and cuts better for me and I grab it first when given the choice.
 
I'm using a Trion barrel grip.  Previosly all of my jigs have been D grip.  Boy was I missing out.
 
Brent,
Tell us the differences you feel in using a barrel grip vs a d-handle. Please
 
Eiji F said:
Brent,
Tell us the differences you feel in using a barrel grip vs a d-handle. Please

I am not Brent but I prefer the barrel grip rather than the top handle. I feel I have more control/closer to the work with the barrel grip and works better in tighter curves. Also I can use the saw underneath the workpiece with the barrel grip. However, the top handle (for me) is better on long straight or long mildly curved boards.

Bob
 
Toolpig said:
Went to Woodcraft to try one out.  Picked it up and knew instantly is wasn't for me.

I'm left-handed.  The switch, which is located on the side, digs into my left hand.

Bummer, this sort of things happens to me a lot.

I'm now looking at the Milwaukee 6276-21 and the Metabo STW 135 PLUS because both have the switch on top of the housing.  Anybody have one of these?

I know the switch issue sounds trivial, but comfort is a big deal for me.  Oh well.

TP

HEY TP, the best of us write upside down and get blue hands in the bargain. 
That switch on the wrong side is a pain at times.  I once found a catalogue with tools for lefties.  Great idea but mostly junk tools.  maybe you and I should do better working upside down.
::)
Tinker
 
Eiji, you know that guy in Enter the Dragon who has the interchangeable weapon hands, the barrel grip is like that, it just feels like an extension of your arm, rather than the D handle, which is more Edward Scissor Hands.  The barrel grip, for me has more control  If I were to hazard a guess I would say it's because:
- the center of gravity for control is lower
- the barrel uses a combination of arm movements and wrist movements, whereas the D handle is more wrist
- the full grip around the barrel feels more significant

Everyone I have worked with has used the D grip, so I've always written off the barrel grip.
Brent
 
I can understand how it (the barrel model) might feel better with the saw on the work surface, but what about cutting in wierd locations i.e. overhead, joists, etc.? What about for smaller hands? I picked one up at Woodcraft Supply a few weeks back and it felt unwieldy, at least in my hands.
 
I have the Festool PSB-300EQ and the Milwaukee 6268-21. Note that the 6268-21 Milwaukee it not the same saw as their barrel grip version. The barrel grip saw is the old design.

They are both excellent saws and its hard to determine a clear winner, probably why I have both.

The Festool is a little smoother, has a smaller grip, but the rubber coating on the Milwaukee makes it a toss-up in the ergonomics department. The dustblower on the Milwaukee works good and the led light is an awesome feature.
Freehand cutting with the Milwaukee is easier, even without the the dust guard. This probably goes back to the led and my bad eyes.
The Festools' adjustable width blade guide is nice to have, no adjustment on the Milwaukee.
Festool wins in the blade lock mechanism also, it seems to be more solid & smooth when you actuate it.
The Festool also wins in the cleanliness department with the dust collection, none at all on the Milwaukee.
I prefer the speed control on the Festool also, it's more convient to have the seperate switch on the side of the saw instead of the combo trigger/speed dial on the Milwaukee.

Ed

 
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