Joined rails as accurate and smooth as one long rail?

[Darl Bundren]

I am in the market for a new track saw and rails--the two options for cutting the 8 foot lengths of sheet goods are to join two rails or purchase one long rail.  However, storage for a very long rail might prove inconvenient in my current shop situation. 

Will using two joined rails produce a cut as accurate and as smoothly as using a single long rail?  I've seen pictures in my research where rails don't line up exactly (though it looks like the plastic splinter guard strip is aligned). 

If I end up with 75" and 55" rails, will that provide sufficient length to comfortably saw 8 feet?  And is 55" sufficient for a 4' cut? 

I have been using EZ Smart and really like the rails, but the dedicated track saws are superior to mine. 

Thanks! 

 

[peter halle]

First, welcome to the FOG!

The question of joining versus a dedicated long rail ultimately will depend on your situation and workflow and storage and transportation.  Many here join and it works for them.  Some don't.  Some have no issues, some don't like the connectors, or the screws and replace both with non-FESTOOL ones.  Some are able to accurately join with a straight edge, and some use a dedicated alignment tool.  There isn't a right or wrong answer here because all here have different requirements.  Some - like me - just don't want to get into the situation where you have to break out of your rhythm to spend time joining or taking apart.  For that reason I have a long rail as well as several shorter rails.

If you ultimately read the responses here and decide to join then the 75 and 55 will be a great combo in my eyes.  If you can get the 55 in the holy version in case you ever want to expand you Arsenal to include a FESTOOL 1010 or 1400 router and use it to do shelf pin holes, then you are better off.

I am sure you will get all sorts of pro and cons here.

Peter

 

[tms0425]

I use the Betterley SLC23 rail alignment tool for 75 + 55 and find that it works perfectly for my shop situation. It's fast, easy, and very accurate.

Betterley SLC23

 

[semenza]

I am in the market for a new track saw and rails--the two options for cutting the 8 foot lengths of sheet goods are to join two rails or purchase one long rail.  However, storage for a very long rail might prove inconvenient in my current shop situation. 

Will using two joined rails produce a cut as accurate and as smoothly as using a single long rail?  I've seen pictures in my research where rails don't line up exactly (though it looks like the plastic splinter guard strip is aligned). 

If I end up with 75" and 55" rails, will that provide sufficient length to comfortably saw 8 feet?  And is 55" sufficient for a 4' cut? 

I have been using EZ Smart and really like the rails, but the dedicated track saws are superior to mine. 

Thanks!

Hi,

  Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

      If storage of a long rail is an issue then joining two will do the job just fine. The accuracy will also be fine. 55" is just enough to cross cut 48".  But if you plan to add any accessories to the rail, such as an attached rail square or the hose deflector you will want / need more than 55" rail. I like the 75" for cross cuts on sheet goods. The 55 + 75 will be more than enough to cut 8' when joined.  You may want to consider a 75 and two 55 rails or two 75 rails. So that you can leave a set joined and still have a shorter one for cross cuts. That way you won't need to put together / take apart / put together / take apart every time you need to switch cutting lengths. I know that good planning of cuts  can minimize this situation but it gets old fast when you are working along and realize you need to make a cut or make a re-cut that you hadn't thought of ahead of time.

    Personally I prefer one long rail over two short ones joined. Mostly for convenience and ready use. If you can figure out a convenient storage solution then get a 2700 (110") or even better the 3000 (118").

Seth

 

[Holmz]

I am in the market for a new track saw and rails--the two options for cutting the 8 foot lengths of sheet goods are to join two rails or purchase one long rail...
...

For Festool, most prefer a long rail.

The MT55 is more expensive, but uses the Bosch rail (or the Festool rail).  The Bosch/Mafell rails join together nicely.

Those seem to be the best 2 options, but I only have actual experience with the MT55... So no experience with the Betterly system.

 

[rst]

I joined rails for 5-6 years before buying the 3000/118" rail.  I used lots of different combos for the length I needed as I had every size except the two longest ones.  I used a Makita rail joiners as I did not like the Festool ones.  I used an 8020 extrusion that I could attach to my rails when joining to ensure alignment.  I cut a lot of sheets, mostly plastics, so for me it was eventually a waste of time, so I bought the 3000.

 

[deepcreek]

I prefer joining shorter guide rails rather than storing and transporting long rails.  I have a 32, 42, several 55's, and a 75 so I can make up whatever combination I need without excessive overhangs.

I'm a big fan of the Betterley StraightLine Connector.  Fast and easy.  Perfect every time.  The best $100 I've spent on any Festool accessory including those made by Festool.

 

[schneems]

I saw the question and came here to reply "no" as i've not had any good luck getting truly straight lines from multiple rails. Thanks for posting the betterly stuff, that looks like a great system and cheaper than buying an 8 foot long rail.

 

[DrD]

Here's my perspective.  Your ultimate answer will be what's right for you at the moment.  Handling long rails can be tricky, esp the 2700 & the 3000, and there are an increasing number of reports of the long rails becoming bent, curved, whatever.

I work alone and don't have dexterity to routinely handle long rails - getting them down from storage, positioning on the wood to be cut, putting them back into storage.  Thus it is far less of a struggle/distraction/interruption of work flow/etc to assemble 2 rails on the surface of what's to be cut - using some type of straight edge and some type of rail connectors/joiners.  It really is not a hassle!

Then there's cost; long rails appear to be darned near exponentially more expensive than shorter rails.  Then there is need; I have a need for shorter rails - I have at least 1 each of every rails except for the 3 longest ones.  Then there's accuracy; just because you have a long rail does not ensure it is dead on, perfectly straight.  Joined rails do not ensure the same neither; here you must/should check each time that the guided cut will be straight and true - on this point there appears to be somewhat of a rush as to ensuring/verifying straightness of cut.

And, remember, you don't necessarily need to remove the connectors from both rails for disassembly.  Lastly what are the approximate frequencies the long cuts are made vs short cuts.

Dive in - you'll receive no bad answers from the posters here, only what works for them - and make some saw dust, and remember, ...everyone's mileage will vary.

 

[antss]

I fall in the camp of joined rails being more than adequate.

Been cutting very expensive imported cabinetry panels with joined rails for two decades without any alignment jig or fretting whether the cut is straight enough.

I think it helps to join them together with with one continuous splinter guard , fit that to your saw blade , then cut the joint at the break in the rail. Strictly not necessary, and the setup I used last week was fitted separately. One rail is three months old while the other is ten +.

Peter nailed it though. Really boils down to what you value: portability vs. convenience vs. cost.

 

[peter halle]

Many moons ago one of our members - Per Swenson - posted numerous images of his setup using multiple rails to cut a 30' + bar top of mahogany without issues.  That was using the stock Festool rails and long before any special alignment jigs.  It can work and work well.

Peter

 

[Birdhunter]

I bought the Betterley alignment tool AND the requisite connectors that I found do not come with the alignment tool. I'm very demanding on both quality and utility. The Betterley alignment tool meets all my criteria. It is an excellent tool. Two tracks joined using the Betterley tool were perfectly straight.

 

[rljatl]

The ends of the rails may not be cut perfectly square.  So, some people leave a millimeter or so between the rails when joining them together.  That way, the out of square ends won't throw the joined rails out of alignment.

IMO, the bottom line is to buy either the Betterley StraightLine Connector or a long rail.  Strange that I see the Betterley connector for sale at some tool dealer websites, but I don't see it on the Betterley website.

I have the 3000mm rail.  You do have to have the space for it because it is so long that it is tricky to move it around.  It's almost 10 feet long.  I really don't have the space for it, but I am happy with it anyway.

 

[antss]

If your rail ends aren't square , I don't see how using a Betterly is gonna help.  [unsure]

 

[deepcreek]

I always leave a small gap between the guide rail ends as Festool recommends.  The Betterley uses a dual cam action on the track extrusion to set the guide rails straight to each other.

As noted, Betterley doesn't have the Straightline Connector on their website but it is available by calling them.  They're a bunch of engineers and machinists and don't seem to worry about retailing as much as they probably should.

 

[sancho57]

First Id like to point out that I do shop work only, no on site work.

I used to join 2 rails together with no issues. I used either a straight edge or the saw itself to align the rails.

I did go out and buy a long rail though. Not bc of accurate cuts but because I got tired of joining the rails cutting the stock disconnecting the rails making a mistake and having to rejoin the rails to cut another piece.

If I was doing site work I would be joining rails.

Id get the 1900 rail and the next smallest rail that would give ya the 8' to cut the ply.

 

[Poindexter]

If your rail ends aren't square , I don't see how using a Betterly is gonna help.  [unsure]

The Betterly doesn't use the end of the rails.  It connects on the guide portion of the rail (same part the saw rides on).  So, it is best to have a small gap between the rails using their system.

 

[Woodwork Wizard]

There's no difference how straight and smooth joining rails is to using a long rail, except the convenience and time spent continuously checking that the joined rails remain straight. A long rail is ideal for workshop use and on site it's great being able to join them. 

I have a 3000 rail with parallel guides on, a 1400 on an MFT, and a 1400 and 2 x 1080s for the workshop.
2 x 1400s and an 800 rail with Betterley connector for site use only.

Makita rail joining bars and splinter guard tape are better than Festool.

 

[Holmz]

The facts are that once the patents ran out the FT rails were eclipsed by the superior Bosch rails.
- However the FT TS is better on cost, 30-day trail and warrenty.
- The alternative(s) are better in other every way, but the cost part is pretty difficult.

Ideally he (the OP) would trot down to use one and see how the rail joining works for him. He only has a single post, and maybe he is not near a retailer, or maybe he is moving slowly in it. The shipping on a 3m FT rail out me off (damage risk as cost may have been covered?), but shipping in Australia is generally ridiculously expensive... And Betterly shipping was even more costly to consider as a viable option.

In the US, the cost, and market penetration of FT, make it easier to choose it. (As well as the general difficulties of using 230v Eu tools.)

 

[mikeyr]

I damaged my rails first day I had them by going too tight on the rail joining screws. I dimpled my rails enough that you could feel it as the saw went over the join.  I fixed the rails and got a 3000 and also the 2400 or 2700 holey rail for the LR32.  I am lucky in that I have the storage for them in the shop.  I found that joined rails always caused some minor issue, especially the first time when I over tightened   after that i was more careful.  And while I always got them straight using a 4ft level, their always was some minor height difference that would cause a minor hangup.  I much prefer the long rail, I sure wished that Festool sold a 3000 as a LR32 rail though, I guess their marketing worked, I got both.