Joining different size guide rails

[Jeff Scott]

I just bought the 75" guide rail to go with my 55" with the intention of joining the two for long rip cuts. I was reading on another forum where a forum member said that this practice was "unreliable".  What say the Fog?  Did I waste my money on the 75"? Should I just have saved for the 118"?

 

[Alan m]

i join 2 55" rils all the time. althow i have another 1400mm rail for cross cuts so i dont knock it down to change from one to the other. if you join them properly and keep them straight there shouldnt be a problem. just check them often.

 

[fatroman]

I've got a couple of 55" rails and a 42".

I join them while using a 78" level to keep everything lined up and haven't had any issues.

 

[ccarrolladams]

Jeff,

There is absolutely no valid reason to fear joining two or more guide rails together. This is why Festool makes and sells the rail connector bars.

For several years I did like Alan and used 3 1400mm (55") rails with one set of couplers. I waited to buy longer rails until I had a vehicle to transport them.

Like Alan, on a site I would couple 2 of my rails, using the extra as a straight edge. The trick to ensuring accuracy is to leave a slight gap between rails because the ends are not always exactly perpendicular to the edge. Usually that gap only needs to be 2-4mm.

Once a pair is coupled, then the other rail is used to cross cut.

The combination of a 1400mm (55") and a 1900mm (75") will be 3300mm (130") which is longer than the 3000mm (118") rail. I found that it only took a little experience to effectively handle a couple pair of 1400mm rails, so relatively speaking using a 3000mm rail was easy.

This morning, before answering your question, I did couple a 1900mm and a 1400mm rail, using a second 1400mm rail as the straight edge. Although this longer combination hung over at both ends of an 8' sheet of plywood, handling it was hardly more difficult than any other long rail.

In my shop we use 4' x 10' sheets when they are available in the kinds of plywood needed. A 3000mm (118") rail is not long enough to make a 10' cut, but the combination of a 1900mm and 1400mm leaves just enough extra at either end to use a TS55 on 19mm plywood. I suggest in such a case, as also when using a 1400mm rail to cross cut 4', be sure there is enough rail so that the saw is seated at the start end of the cut. Do not stop the saw motor until you have brought the blade past the end of the cut, even if this means you are holding the saw. With some experience there will be no mar on the cut.

BTW, when using long rails, I urge you to clamp the rail to the work.

Best of good wishes for happy sawing!

 

[pugilato]

I learned the hard way that, when butt-connecting the two rails, it is best to have a straight edge to make sure the connection is straight.  You will know if the edge is no longer straight because the saw will resist sliding down the rail.

 

[Mudsplat]

I started with a 1400/1080 combination with the connectors.  That way I would crosscut and then join the 2 together for rip cuts.  I rarely need to rip a full sheet lengthwise.  The issue is that the combined rail is too long to crosscuit with, at least in my home shop with the tools I have.

So I found myself constantly joining and splitting and joing the rails.  I ended up getting the 2700 rail to avoid doing this. 

If I knew then what I know now I would have just got the 2700 rail to start with.  That said, the 1080 with a parallel guide rail makes an awesone crosscut square, so I'm not sorry I have it.

Also, the 2700 rail with the parallel guides seems to handle better that the joined pair with the parallel guides.  It's very subjective, but the connectors make the combined rail feel stiff and unbalanced compared to the 2700 and guides. 

So, yes, the connectors work but I suspect lomger term you will want the longer single rail.

 

[peter halle]

Mudsplat,
[welcome] to the FOG!

Hope to hear more about your experiences in the future.

Peter

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Here's one way to join rails. It's still a good idea to check with a straight edge afterward. Always leave a small gap between the rails since there's no guarantee that they are completely square, especially if they've been dropped.

http://blog.festoolusa.com/post/2008/11/04/Little-Known-Facts-About-Festool-Guide-Rails.aspx

If you need a quick method for connecting two guide rails follow these easy steps. There is also a step-by-step pictorial below for your reference.

  1. Using two guide rail connectors (482107, sold separately) join the two guide rails to one another.
  2. Using your TS plunge saw, bridge the two guide rails by centering the saw on the point where the two rails meet. Using the saw's green guide rail alignment knobs, tighten the saw onto the guide rails so there is no play and the saw does not slide.
  3. Tighten the set screws on the top side of the guide rail connectors.
  4. Slide the guide rails over the edge of your MFT, being sure to support the weight of the saw, and tighten the set screws on the bottom side of the guide rail connectors.
  5. Remove the saw from the guide rails by loosening the alignment knobs and tighten the screws on the guide rail connectors that were positioned underneath the saw. Be sure to re-adjust your saw's guide rail alignment knobs to minimize play while allowing for easy sliding.
  6. For added peace of mind, check the alignment with a high quality straight edge.

 

[Sam Murdoch]

I add my voice to those who say "join". Never had any issues except for forgetting that one last rip before breaking down my set up [crying]. I never have gone through the set up as described in the post above - don't own the MFT and have never used the saw as a guide for the guide. A straight edge is a good precaution but more often than not I just bring them to each other tight & square (easy tight - no need for white knuckles here)  then tighten up the set screws. It may help that I always have a set of connectors already positioned in one rail - maybe that eliminates some of the slop that others have complained about as I only need to adjust one rail. Maybe?

Contest award judges - please note the question mark at the end of my post [big grin]

 

[Alan m]

[welcome] to the fog Mudsplat .

also there is nothing worse than just knocking down the rails only to see the board you just forgot the rip. i often do this as i end up putting the rails over in a safe place just on top of the last piece that needs ripping that i left over there safe

sam nice try.  [poke]

 

[joraft]

If you need a quick method for connecting two guide rails follow these easy steps. There is also a step-by-step pictorial below for your reference.

   1. Using two guide rail connectors (482107, sold separately) join the two guide rails to one another.
   2. Using your TS plunge saw, bridge the two guide rails by centering the saw on the point where the two rails meet. Using the saw's green guide rail alignment knobs, tighten the saw onto the guide rails so there is no play and the saw does not slide.
   3. Tighten the set screws on the top side of the guide rail connectors.
   4. Slide the guide rails over the edge of your MFT, being sure to support the weight of the saw, and tighten the set screws on the bottom side of the guide rail connectors.
   5. Remove the saw from the guide rails by loosening the alignment knobs and tighten the screws on the guide rail connectors that were positioned underneath the saw. Be sure to re-adjust your saw's guide rail alignment knobs to minimize play while allowing for easy sliding.
   6. For added peace of mind, check the alignment with a high quality straight edge.

This is the method I've always used, I find it to be fast and accurate.  Most important is not to try and line them up at the joint itself. I have several rails, and none of them butt together without some sort of gap. I adjust the saw to fit a little tight on the rails for alignment purposes. If my saw still slides over the joint smoothly after tightening I can be sure the two rails are aligned and straight.

Having said that, I prefer making long cuts using my 3000 mm rail, but it never leaves my shop. It's easier to use, but a pain to transport.

 

[sancho57]

Hey Shane great info. Just when I thought I had this stuff down pat and I go and learn something

 

[Jeff Scott]

Thanks to everyone for your good advice and information!  I shall follow it dutifully. 

 

[MrToolJunkie]

+1 on the tip Shane shared -- works great and everything lines up perfectly.  Another tip I mentioned before, I sometimes keep my connectors in the slots -- helps keep the cord from falling in the channel and getting stuck and they are easily accessible when I need them.

Scot

 

[Alan m]

+1 on the tip Shane shared -- works great and everything lines up perfectly.  Another tip I mentioned before, I sometimes keep my connectors in the slots -- helps keep the cord from falling in the channel and getting stuck and they are easily accessible when I need them.

Scot

i used to that.
but then it got annoying.
the joiner bar was always on the wrong end for to stop the cable getting caught
it was in the way of the clamps (the odd time they are used)
always in the rail thats not being conected.
so i gave up leaving them in the groove