Kapex Aluminium blade on Wood...Whaoww

oldboy

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Aug 22, 2009
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After changing to the aluminium blade to cut so alu profile, I had a couple of cuts to make on timber and sheet wood...I decided to just use the same blade and WHAOWWW the cut was super smooth....to the point where I am wondering what change back to the wood blade? 

Surely it is a bad idea but why?  will the aluminium blade wear down very quickly?

Any experience you got plse let me know.
 
I mostly work with alumium and plastics but also wood butcher for my own house.  I never change out my blades.  Makita 10 & 14" chopsaws, Makita 12" slider, two 10" tablesaws, TS 55 & 75.  All commercial/ industrial/storefront work and I've made all my own molding and cabinets...actually I did my whole house excepting the 24 X 36 bungalow that my wife's Polish grandparents built in 1928.  Oh, and I haven't sharpened a blade in 10 years.
 
rst said:
I mostly work with alumium and plastics but also wood butcher for my own house.  I never change out my blades.  Makita 10 & 14" chopsaws, Makita 12" slider, two 10" tablesaws, TS 55 & 75.  All commercial/ industrial/storefront work and I've made all my own molding and cabinets...actually I did my whole house excepting the 24 X 36 bungalow that my wife's Polish grandparents built in 1928.  Oh, and I haven't sharpened a blade in 10 years.

Would be curious to know your specific blade choices
 
I use Amana, AGE and Freud industrial blades.  I get the Amana and AGE from Toolstoday and Freud from Routerbitworld.
 
oldboy said:
After changing to the aluminium blade to cut so alu profile, I had a couple of cuts to make on timber and sheet wood...I decided to just use the same blade and WHAOWWW the cut was super smooth....to the point where I am wondering what change back to the wood blade? 

Surely it is a bad idea but why?  will the aluminium blade wear down very quickly?

Any experience you got plse let me know.

If you have both blades, It takes only a minute to change to the correct blade for the material.  I have forgotten to check the blade when I am cutting wood and the aluminum blade is in the saw.  It cuts fine, but there are consequences.  The rake and set are different on the aluminum blade.  The resins from the wood will cling to the aluminum blade faster due to the less set on the teeth.  It is a good idea to periodically wipe your saw blades down to remove any residue build up.  I certainly know if I try and cut aluminum with the wrong blade in the saw.  I quickly stop and change out.  There are always trade off's if you use a blade not designed for the material you are cutting.  Otherwise the manufacturers would not tool up for different blades.  Drop and radial arm saws almost always have negative rake whilst table saws where you push into the blade have positive rake.  The speed you have the saw set to will also have an influence on the finish you achieve.  At the end of the day you will get the job done with what you have, but your finish and efficiency will be affected by using the "wrong" blade for the material you are cutting.  I know I can cut a blind mortise with my carpenter's chisels, but I also know I can do it faster, better and cleaner if I use my mortising chisels.  I know I can cut wood with my aluminum blades, but I just have to listen to the tone of the saw when I cut wood with the wood blade that both the saw and the wood appreciate being in unison with one another.
 
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