Kapex down swing trouble - advice and drawings please.

[woodwreck]

I have two Kapex units with problems
1. Blade guard retracts on down swing but when returning head to raised position, the clear plastic guard stays up and  has to be manually pulled down after each cut. There is no spring tension trying to spring it back down.

2. Second machine, 3 years old. Has been working fine but now pulling down for the cut head travels about 2" then two hands are required to continue the cut. It feels something akin to a cam operation in which force is needed to overide a cam - just to illustrate.

If someone could please provide a link to exploded drawings of the disassembhly, it would be appreciated. The  parts info and particularly, drawing info that comes with the tool are useless, too small, in adequatelky shown.....

TIA

Steve

 

 

[GarryMartin]

If you click on the Festool Websites link at the top of the page, and select Spare Parts Catalog, you should be able to get a zoomable exploded parts diagram and all the part number information you might need.

 

[woodwreck]

Thank you for the promp[t reply Gary but when I did that, the exploded parts are virtually illegible on the screen but worse, when I try to print, it only prints the parts list, not the exploded drawing. I installed the latest plug ins etc. in order to view but the problem is as described.

Suggestions welcome.

 

[GarryMartin]

The images aren't the best in the world woodwreck, but you should be able to figure some things out. I'd guess the guard is a spring problem, and the spring is listed...

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To be honest though, I'd give Festool USA a call - they will no doubt be able to advise on the exact problem and remedy very quickly.

Festool USA Service are on 800-554-8741

 

[Sparky]

Mine in currently in to festool Canada with the same problem but mine wasn't even 3 month old

 

[Sparky]

We'll got it back they said I looked like glue was inside and wondered what I was cutting. The only thing that would have gummed up the inside would have been about 150 cuts in pressure treated fence boards. Apparently the kapex isn't able to handle cutting treated boards? Surprised me that a new saw could gum up that bad inside when never had issues with any other type if saw I have owned from residue from treated lumber.

 

[rnt80]

I've had the same problem twice, the second go round just started.  I bought my Kapex within the first few months of the release so I've had it awhile.  Last year it developed quite a few issues, the most serious of which was the saw requiring significant force to be pulled down.  I bit the bullet and paid the shipping to send it in.  Festool did what seemed to be a complete overhaul on the saw and the machine I got back was perfect.  All told with shipping and repairs it cost me $180, an amount I gladly paid to keep the saw in good shape.  Unfortunately the issue of pulling the saw down has reared its head again.  I called this morning and service requested that I send the saw in but I'm hesitant to spend another $100 on shipping in less than 10 months for them to replace a part that cost $15 - the swing lever, which is the L-shaped metal arm by the dust collection outlet.  I ended up ordering the part this morning and will try to replace it myself.  Has anyone else had this problem?  I don't use my saw on a daily basis and it stays in the shop 95% of the time.  I wondered initially if it was something that I'm doing.  When cutting I pull the saw towards me, engage the triggers, wait for the vac to catch up to full speed and then plunge the saw down and push it through the material.  Most of what I cut is bare stock that I've prepped or unfinished moldings.

 

[Jeremiah9675]

This is one of the reasons I don't own a kapex. I know too many people who have issues with them and I've heard a lot of horror stories like this. I own dozens of Festool products and tools and they are all about 25% more than the other brands out there in cost for the same type of tool and there worth it. That having been said the kapex a is about 60 to 65% higher in cost then the most expensive compound miter saw out there. I'm not saying it's not at he most accurate saw out there, because it is. I'm only saying for the cost of the machine it should be much more durable. I've have my Milwaukee saw now for 5 years and it is a reliable work horse. I've framed dozens of houses with it and it still keeps on going. I trimmed out tons door casings/base/crown and more. I'd be afraid to burn up a kapex using it to frame out a whole house. Not to mention its only a 10 inch blade. I can't cut rafters or floor joists with it? It's defiantly a cabinet makers/ trim carpenters saw. For $1400 it should be almost bullet proof.

 

[Jaybolishes]

If they offered a 12" blade saw, with 15 instead of 13 amp motor, and a 14" horizontal cutting capacity I think many more people would buy them even with the given issues.  I find a 12" blade is extremely important when you never know what you'll want to cut day to day, or on any given job.  Every carpenter I know has an extra 10"slider  that can handle small jobs.  When I shell out $1400, I want the saw to meet or beat my axials capabilities other than being lighter. I'm waiting for festool to update to a bigger saw option, the money wouldn't be able to stay in my pocket. The wait may be a while.

 

[Jeremiah9675]

If they offered a 12" blade saw, with 15 instead of 13 amp motor, and a 14" horizontal cutting capacity I think many more people would buy them even with the given issues.  I find a 12" blade is extremely important when you never know what you'll want to cut day to day, or on any given job.  Every carpenter I know has an extra 10"slider  that can handle small jobs.  When I shell out $1400, I want the saw to meet or beat my axials capabilities other than being lighter. I'm waiting for festool to update to a bigger saw option, the money wouldn't be able to stay in my pocket. The wait may be a while.

AMEN!