kapex laser Q

[speed]

quick Q for you guys

when cutting in the special position my left laser only shows on the first 1" up the 4x1 , the right hand laser goes all way up but dont go over the top, is this normal?

if i want to cut a exact measure between 2 longpoints in having to relise the special cutting lever. set the cut up with the laser clamp then re engage the special cutting. is there any adjustments

 

[jonny round boy]

Sounds like they might need some adjustment.

Instructions for adjusting the lasers are included in Rick Christopherson's Kapex Supplemental Manual.

 

[speed]

i think i have the lasers correct and parrellel to the blade

i took a few pics

the first pic is laser in the special cutting position

pic 2 ive started lowering the saw but the laser still dont go over the timber

the 3rd pic is how the lasers lands flat still in the special cutting position. its like the left laser need bringing forward but there is no adjustment, in normal sliding mode the lasers go over the top of the timber ok.....

 

[jonny round boy]

Speed,

I've just checked mine, and replicated exactly the same issue. With the head in the 'special' position, the left laser won't run over the top of a 4x1.

I also checked them in the standard, sliding head configuration. Basically, in any position the left laser is always 2-3" shorter than the right. I think the reason for this is that the arbor of the blade holder blocks the light from the laser.

The 2 laser emitters are placed in front of the blade, one above the other. The light from both lasers hits the arbor, however the RHS laser is lower down than the LHS laser, so it travels further round the arbor. Because the LHS laser is the higher one, the arbor gets in the way more & the line is shorter.

Hope that makes sense!

There is absolutely nothing that can be done about this unfortunately.

JRB

 

[speed]

ok thanks for trying. its going to make cutting skirting a little bit harder then [sad]

 

[jonny round boy]

If you're cutting 4" (or even 5") skirting on it, then it's very close to the blade anyway. You could easily just line it up with the edge of the blade by eye.

Alternatively, you could cut it upside down, or on the flat. Admittedly, these last 2 options aren't ideal, but the point is there are ways around it. Some will argue that "for that price it shouldn't have this issue" or similar, but this issue is caused by the relative positions of the lasers & arbor. The only way round it (short of finding a way to magically bend light round corners!) would be to extend the moulding & mount the lasers lower down, but that would cause far more problems than the one it might solve.

 

[danrush]

Alternatively, you could cut it upside down, or on the flat

I understand that I'm in the minority on this subject, but I prefer to cut 3" +  stock on the flats.  For a couple of reasons:

1. It's generally my habit to place and mark each piece as it goes in.  (example:  on an outside corner, place the piece, mark or scribe the backside, then cut, upside down.  No measuring, very little, if any tearout)

2. My aging eyes have an easier time spotting a 3" + line than a small mark at the top of a vertical cut.

3. If the wings on my cutting station are just a bit out of level, there's less wrestling with a board on the flat, which will flex a little, than one on edge.

4. Laser issue noted by the OP.

Dan

 

[dltflt]

Could you put a spacer between the fence and your stock to be cut.  This will move the stock away from the fence and I think it will solve the problem.

 

[speed]

Could you put a spacer between the fence and your stock to be cut.  This will move the stock away from the fence and I think it will solve the problem.

in the special cutting position you are limited to 20mm thickness due to the motor

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

If you move the saw head closer, I think the laser covers more ground.