Kapex: Least amount of depth for a table I can get away with

[martin_josef]

Hello everyone, I would love to add a Kapex 60 or 120 to my small shop, but I am not sure how little depth I can get away with. There is not a lot of space where the Kapex would be.

So my question: for either the 60 or 120, what's the least amount of table depth (assuming there's a wall right behind the table) can I get away with?

Do I have to have the little foot in front sit on the table or can that be omitted if the Kapex is secured to the table, which it would be?

Much appreciated,
Martin

 

[ChuckM]

If space and budget allow, and you mostly use the saw as a stationary machine, get the big brother 120. The 120 has the best bevel control in the miter saw market and the best hold-down clamp. Don't underestimate the value of the clamp.

Most miter saw clamps are not used because they aren't user-friendly. The use of clamps significantly reduces chances of injuries. (Miter saws cause the highest number.of injuries after table  /circular saws according to one data base.)

I haven't had enough use of the 60, but some told me its dust collection is not as good as the 120 even when hooked to a CT. I have no way of verifying that though, but I'm very happy with my 120. My air quality monitor proves its effectiveness.

 

[martin_josef]

That's all very interesting, thanks. I read about the same on here posted by quite a few people. Festool recommended me to go for the 60, which I thought was curious, usually they do advise me to go for the biggest version of their tools (up to a point).

I will read more about the differences for sure.

 

[Cheese]

[attachimg=1]

 

[martin_josef]

Thanks, exactly what I was looking for!

 

[dicktill]

[attachimg=1]

I (and most folks here!) usually defer to [member=44099]Cheese[/member], but mine is set at 24" and there is little clearance. I could try to measure it if you need that, but by feel it not an inch.

 

[Cheese]

I (and most folks here!) usually defer to [member=44099]Cheese[/member], but mine is set at 24" and there is little clearance. I could try to measure it if you need that, but by feel it not an inch.

Let's go with your number Dick...my Kapex is not up against a wall but it is also not easily navigated around (too much junk in the basement  [smile]) which meant my number was just Kentucky windage. That's the reason for the Approx preface...glad to see there are others that are holding my feet to the fire...that's a good thing...seriously.  [thumbs up]

 

[martin_josef]

24" would be ~ 61 cm and Festool just got back to me with ~ 60 cm (~ 23,6") as what they would recommend to have available at least. So I will go with that, if I end up buying the 60 instead of the 120.

Thanks everyone!

 

[mino]

I will diverge from the pack here.

Firstly, the less the saw sticks-out, the better. So having a worktable that is a bit more, say 65 cm, is better. This also allows for full-depth drawers which can be offset a bit to the back (so the top protrudes) for a better ergonomy.

I would still put the saw as close to the wall as possible and use the depth to have a bit more workspace to work with. This is very useful if one sets up a fence prolongation on the sable as well.

IMO the KS 60 is a good value in shop use. All the accessories/wings/etc. are mostly not applicable so the price difference does show up. If there was a use case where it makes sense instead of the KS 120, it is in a hobby shop setup.

For a (semi)mobile setup with wings, cart, etc. the KS 120 becomes a slam dunk as the accessories prices are mostly the same between the two.

Then for a fully mobile setup the KSC 60 rules thanks to a better size/weight (plus being cordless).

Sure, the KS 120 is definitely a better choice if the budget allows.
On the other hand, getting a KS 60 and seeing if it is "good-enough" is a solid strategy as well.

 

[woodferret]

For those seriously tight on space, there's also the Makita LS610DZ (JP import) that sits at near 14"-16".  Tempted to get one just so I can stack it on top of a sysport.  [big grin]

 

[mino]

For those seriously tight on space, there's also the Makita LS610DZ (JP import) that sits at near 14"-16".  Tempted to get one just so I can stack it on top of a sysport.  [big grin]

That is one cutie for site work!

Unfortunately Makita missed it there and it needs space in the back as both the mitter fixing handle and the dust port go directly to the back. The hose is the bigger issue as one needs lots of free space to not damage the hose rubbing wall.

My LS1040 has the same design .. and the same problem. For a 10" chopsaw it has barelly smaller footprint than KS 120 ..

 

[Packard]

Just another consideration:

On my DeWalt chop saw, attaching the whole shop dust collection to the guard (which the Kapex also has a provision) probably only collected 25% of the dust.

My table is against a wall, and about 22” deep.  The lack of depth prevents me from adding a hood behind the saw to collect the majority of the dust.  (I have to vacuum out the dust behind the saw periodically.

I tried (unsuccessfully) add a hood similar to this:

 

[Peter Kelly]

If you're really pinched for space you can remove the cord reel from the back of the Kapex. Saves about 2 1/4" of depth.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Spandex]

For what it’s worth, I have my KS60 on a 610mm worktop. There’s just enough clearance at the back for the saw to swing fully, and just enough work surface at the front for the small foot to rest on.

 

[martin_josef]

For what it’s worth, I have my KS60 on a 610mm worktop. There’s just enough clearance at the back for the saw to swing fully, and just enough work surface at the front for the small foot to rest on.

Could you measure for me the width without the foot resting on a table? I saw a few measurements for that distance and they range between 20,5—23".

It would be very much appreciated.

Also, does anyone know if the KSC 60 required more or less space?

 

[Packard]

Perhaps add a 6” or 8” drop leaf extension with indexing to assure that the saw is placed in the correct location would work.

For my old DeWalt I added a half round extension to the front of the table where the saw sits, but the space to the right is just 16” where the stock rests.

The DeWalt has holes to bolt in place.  I don’t bolt it, but I use the holes to index the saw location.

 

[martin_josef]

Thanks Packard, I seriously consider doing this, but I wonder how much I will have to extend the table where the Kapex sits.

 

[Cheese]

Could you measure for me the width without the foot resting on a table? I saw a few measurements for that distance and they range between 20,5—23".

The 23" dimension is from the cord reel to the front foot. The 20.5" dimension is if you remove the cord reel from the saw. Easy peasy...