Kapex vs 7"1/4 hickory flooring

[r cash]

Hello All
Just before Xmas I started Laying hickory floor in my living room . Day 1 started cutting with an older hitachi 10" slider the saw was cutting fine but I was having some issues with the butt joints I had lot cuts ahead of me along with the 45 degree on my end cut I laid this floor on a diagonal . Day 2 I ran down to picked  up a Kapex got home started cutting I was wowed by the laser always thought these a joke for chopsaws  it really worked . Did I mention that I had to leave my wallet for collateral . One problem surfaced as I was cutting away the detents could not get the saw to cut 1/4 or 1/2 degree out of square it kept jumping back to square so after a few ... .... try's I placed a formica piece on the fence to angle the stock instead of the saw off to cutting again . Day three
Im not sure that the dust collection is 91 percent as talked about here but I did fill my ct22 in about a day . It is a great saw has a lot power smooth and accurate love it dust collection is only B+ just hoping I could get half my wallet back ...... please
Ciao
RC

 

[mastercabman]

One reason i did not like the Kapex is there is no detente over ride lock out.
Makes it hard to set the miter 1/4 or 1/2 degree(keeps on jumping back)
I did liked the dust control,by far the best!(for a slider)

 

[Forrest Anderson]

One problem surfaced as I was cutting away the detents could not get the saw to cut 1/4 or 1/2 degree out of square it kept jumping back to square so after a few ... .... try's I placed a formica piece on the fence to angle the stock instead of the saw off to cutting again .

One reason i did not like the Kapex is there is no detente over ride lock out. Makes it hard to set the miter 1/4 or 1/2 degree(keeps on jumping back)

I've read about this problem before, but since I don't have a Kapex, I'm having difficulty understanding it.

It appears that there are two levers affecting the locking mechanism - a small upper lever on a spring, which Festool call the Stop Lever, which engages with the detents at pre-set angles; and a large lower lever, called the Clamp Lever, which clamps the mitre table to a desired position.

The manual says:

Standard horizontal mitre angles
The following preset mitre angles are available:
   left: 0, 15, 22.5, 30, 45 degs
   right: 0, 15, 22.5, 30, 45, 60 degs
- Move the machine to working position.
- Pull the clamp lever (13.5) upwards.
- Push the stop lever (13.4) downwards.
- Turn the saw base to the desired mitre angle.
- Release the stop lever. The stop lever must latch into place.
- Push the clamp lever downwards.

Other horizontal mitre angles
- Move the machine to working position.
- Pull the clamp lever (13.5) upwards.
- Push the stop lever (13.4) downwards.
- Turn the saw base to the desired mitre angle.
- Push the clamp lever downwards.
- Release the stop lever.

For setting the mitre table to non-preset angles, eg 1 degree, it appears that you simply keep the small upper Stop Lever pressed down so that it doesn't engage with the detents, and whilst you are keeping it firmly pressed down (and therefore disengaged), you move the Clamping Lever downwards to clamp the table firmly. Once clamped, you release the Stop Lever. Although the Stop Lever will want to engage with the 0 degree detent, since the table is now clamped firmly, the table shouldn't move.

Could one or both of you explain why the above procedure is not working for you? Maybe the bottom Claming Lever isn't clamping the table firmly enough, and when you release the Stop Lever, it moves the table?

Forrest

 

[Warrior]

I have a Kapex and I dont have a problem setting it to cut 1/4 deg off a detent. Just pull the detent lever and lock the table at the same time.

 

[Warrior]

Forrest,
You beat me to it. Even though you had to use 10x the words to do it. ;D

 

[Forrest Anderson]

Forrest,
You beat me to it. Even though you had to use 10x the words to do it. ;D

I'm in verbose mode tonight! 

Forrest

 

[mastercabman]

I have a Kapex and I dont have a problem setting it to cut 1/4 deg off a detent. Just pull the detent lever and lock the table at the same time.

Lucky you!!!

 

[mastercabman]

One problem surfaced as I was cutting away the detents could not get the saw to cut 1/4 or 1/2 degree out of square it kept jumping back to square so after a few ... .... try's I placed a formica piece on the fence to angle the stock instead of the saw off to cutting again .

One reason i did not like the Kapex is there is no detente over ride lock out. Makes it hard to set the miter 1/4 or 1/2 degree(keeps on jumping back)

I've read about this problem before, but since I don't have a Kapex, I'm having difficulty understanding it.

It appears that there are two levers affecting the locking mechanism - a small upper lever on a spring, which Festool call the Stop Lever, which engages with the detents at pre-set angles; and a large lower lever, called the Clamp Lever, which clamps the mitre table to a desired position.

The manual says:

Standard horizontal mitre angles
The following preset mitre angles are available:
   left: 0, 15, 22.5, 30, 45 degs
   right: 0, 15, 22.5, 30, 45, 60 degs
- Move the machine to working position.
- Pull the clamp lever (13.5) upwards.
- Push the stop lever (13.4) downwards.
- Turn the saw base to the desired mitre angle.
- Release the stop lever. The stop lever must latch into place.
- Push the clamp lever downwards.

Other horizontal mitre angles
- Move the machine to working position.
- Pull the clamp lever (13.5) upwards.
- Push the stop lever (13.4) downwards.
- Turn the saw base to the desired mitre angle.
- Push the clamp lever downwards.
- Release the stop lever.

For setting the mitre table to non-preset angles, eg 1 degree, it appears that you simply keep the small upper Stop Lever pressed down so that it doesn't engage with the detents, and whilst you are keeping it firmly pressed down (and therefore disengaged), you move the Clamping Lever downwards to clamp the table firmly. Once clamped, you release the Stop Lever. Although the Stop Lever will want to engage with the 0 degree detent, since the table is now clamped firmly, the table shouldn't move.

Could one or both of you explain why the above procedure is not working for you? Maybe the bottom Claming Lever isn't clamping the table firmly enough, and when you release the Stop Lever, it moves the table?

Forrest

Nothing much to explain,  just annoying

 

[Forrest Anderson]

One reason i did not like the Kapex is there is no detente over ride lock out.
Makes it hard to set the miter 1/4 or 1/2 degree(keeps on jumping back)

For setting the mitre table to non-preset angles, eg 1 degree, it appears that you simply keep the small upper Stop Lever pressed down so that it doesn't engage with the detents, and whilst you are keeping it firmly pressed down (and therefore disengaged), you move the Clamping Lever downwards to clamp the table firmly. Once clamped, you release the Stop Lever. Although the Stop Lever will want to engage with the 0 degree detent, since the table is now clamped firmly, the table shouldn't move.

Could one or both of you explain why the above procedure is not working for you? Maybe the bottom Claming Lever isn't clamping the table firmly enough, and when you release the Stop Lever, it moves the table?

Nothing much to explain,  just annoying

So, just to confirm - if you keep the Stop Lever pressed down whilst you clamp the table with the Clamping Lever, the table doesn't jump back?

RC - what about you?

Forrest

 

[mastercabman]

One reason i did not like the Kapex is there is no detente over ride lock out.
Makes it hard to set the miter 1/4 or 1/2 degree(keeps on jumping back)

For setting the mitre table to non-preset angles, eg 1 degree, it appears that you simply keep the small upper Stop Lever pressed down so that it doesn't engage with the detents, and whilst you are keeping it firmly pressed down (and therefore disengaged), you move the Clamping Lever downwards to clamp the table firmly. Once clamped, you release the Stop Lever. Although the Stop Lever will want to engage with the 0 degree detent, since the table is now clamped firmly, the table shouldn't move.

Could one or both of you explain why the above procedure is not working for you? Maybe the bottom Claming Lever isn't clamping the table firmly enough, and when you release the Stop Lever, it moves the table?

Nothing much to explain,  just annoying

So, just to confirm - if you keep the Stop Lever pressed down whilst you clamp the table with the Clamping Lever, the table doesn't jump back?

RC - what about you?

Forrest

Couldn't tell you,it never worked for me.
The saw i had was stiffed(miter table).When i try to move the table,it was hard to get a little move from the detent.
No matter what i did,holding the lever up,tapping the table,it would either go to far or jump back in.(the detent)

Just annoying.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I have a Kapex and I dont have a problem setting it to cut 1/4 deg off a detent. Just pull the detent lever and lock the table at the same time.

Plus one.

 

[erikfsn]

No problems here either. Can set it wherever I want.

 

[Warrior]

I did have a problem with my Kapex out of the box. The stiffness of the miter table makes adjusting the table one handed problematic to  down right frustrating. I replaced the center spring washer assembly with another washer assembly and it is smooth as silk and locks when I want.

Email for details.

Eiji

 

[r cash]

Hi guys
All the info that I've read is good my Kapex table moves very smoothly that doe's not seem to be an issue for me .
It stay's put quite well when I am away from the detents . What I was trying to do was get 1/4 or so degrees out of square so my floor boards with whatever vairables Ie width mostly and some long warping get it tight together.
I am not one to give up with out a fight maybe I did not do some thing correct . But after 50 or minutes of the same thing the torque  of the motor start kicking the saw back to square again and again. my saw does not seem to clamp hard enough to compensate for the torque . but with all the small problems this product has from what I have heard here  this is not a surprise . I just would love to get the rest of my wallet back..... ....  please
I am not sure if it's keeper yet  I do like a lot ........ .. love it we will see
Ciao
Rc

 

[nickao]

If you want to get your wallet back go get the Milwaukee slider.

I have had no issues with it at all. The dust collection is fantastic(you have to make your own adapter though) and the digital miter  of .1 degrees is dead on every time.

I have about 2 hours of use on it and I am happy so far. I paid a little over 500.00.

No laser, but a nice light. Louder than the kapex. Not as big as I was told, still bigger and heavier than the kapex, but not a deal breaker especially for me, I bring the saw no where.

The Milwaukee is not as elegant as the kapex, but the kapex is not 800.00 more saw than my new Milwaukee either. Actually I prefer the Milwaukee. The handle placement and such is made for me. The Milwaukee has more power, but is not a quiet saw. Dust collection is excellent on both, but Milwaukee better come out with an dust collection adapter for the saw, the fitting is ridiculous.

They both cross cut wood the same. I have the stock blade still on the Milwaukee and it is fine. When I  replace with the Forrest Miter Master I expect it will be even better.

I do like the 12" blade size on the Milwaukee better than a 10" blade for some reason.  Nothing to do with cut capacity really. It just seems different.

The kapex may be fancier, more elegant and the laser is neat, but the Milwaukee is definitely the saw to beat in the under 1000.00 price range and is FAR ahead of any saw costing the same, 450.00 to 650.00.

I prefer the Milwaukee over the Kapex myself,  the digital is so cool and that it is accurate is a surprise.  I could see why others would choose the Kapex(if the table did not cause so much initial trouble) Its full of technology from the laser to the slider mechanism. I must say there is something about this new Milwaukee motor that is far better than any Milwaukee or any other universal motor I have ever used. It does not seem to ever bog down.

If money is a factor its a no brainer to get the milwuakee.

In 6 months I'll let you know whats up with it.

Milwaukee Slider

If the Milwaukee was as quiet as the kapex, with the laser of the kapex, it would be unbeatable. Conversely, if the Kapex had the table of the Milwaukee with its accurate digital miter scale the kapex would be even better.

 

[r cash]

Hi all +Nickao

the thing about the wallet was meant as a joke come on festool >< cheaper which is it

 

[nickao]

That's cool. 

I was serious about changing out a Kapex with the Milwaukee though.   

 

[Jimhart]

They both cross cut wood the same. I have the stock blade still on the Milwaukee and it is fine. When I  replace with the Forrest Miter Master I expect it will be even better.

Sorry for going a bit off-topic. I recently picked up a Makita slider and was looking at the Miter Master vs the Chopmaster. Was curious why they were recommending the Miter Master for fixed miter saws and the Chopmaster for sliders and RAS.
For the most part, on a fixed saw, the blade cuts on the downstroke. On a slider and a RAS it often cuts on the upstroke, unless you're cutting pieces that don't involve extending the slider. They both have a negative hook angle, maybe it's the same. Don't know, none of the places I looked were specific.

What's motivating you to choose the Miter Master, especially when it's somewhere around $100 more?

Jim

 

[r cash]

Hi All
I am seeing the logic spend less and get it to last a shorter length of time and buy it again . case in point 28 years ago I purchased 2 makita battery drills I think ..... 9.6 volt wow great tool wore them both out inside of two years . Next I got 2 14.4 volt dewalt more power great tool these lasted  all of 4 years maybe then because they were good I got  2 more did not even make it three years gave those 2 away . Along came festtool my first tool from them tdk 12 great tool once again now it's been 9 or 10 years with the same batt's . last year I bought 2 c 12s they are really great . Moral of  this long winded story is not how another brand chopsaw is in 6 months  but how it is 6 years . If the Kapex is half as good as my first tdk 12 is  I will  gladly leave my  wallet behind .
have a great day
Ciao
RC

 

[nickao]

The kapex is not going to last any longer than the Milwaukee so If you are referring to the Milwaukee vs kapex I do not understand your comparison at all. We are not comparing a Harbor freight machine to a Kapex. This Milwaukee saw is rock solid.

I have had Milwaukee Sawzalls older than my kids still up and running. Milwaukee is not  Ryobi homeowner brand(which does not mean  all  Ryobi are bad tools). This Milwaukee industrial/commercial tool is designed for professionals.

I do agree buy better tool if f you can afford it, but this Milwaukee is as good as and even better than the Kapex in some ways.

The kapex has already proved itself to be unreliable with all the known troubles that have happened with it.

Just because some tools cost more do not make them automatically better. Actually, I have even heard Ryobi has some good cordless guns lately that compare to some of the professional brands and they are dirt cheap.