Laminate countertop build

L

lumbajac

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Mar 8, 2010
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Looking to do a laminate kitchen countertop build job. Been a few years since I've done one. Always did in summer months and outdoors because of contact cement fumes. Highest temps now are 45 F and don't have separate shop so would have to do indoors in the house itself to meet 65 F minimum temp. Anybody have experience doing indoors in home? Was thinking of putting 2 fans in windows blowing fumes out. Are the vapors that bad that it'd be too risky with inhaling solvent vapors indoors and natural gas furnace running to maintain 65 F possibly igniting vapors? Should it wait 8 months until summer to do outdoors?
 
Thanks, but Lepage low odor does not appear to be available in US. Considered water based nonflammable Weldwood contact cement, but has horrible reviews.
 
Its been 20 years since I built laminate countertops for my kitchen in a house I rebuilt.  So memory is sketchy.  I used whatever contact cement was available at the local hardware store.  Sure it was the dangerous poisonous deadly chemical kind.  Not water based.  It was petroleum or chemical based.  Applied a coat or maybe two to the particle board.  One to the laminate.  Then a fresh coat and stuck them together.  Used the small rubber roller to press them together.  Think I used one layer of 3/4 particleboard.  Then I applied a 2 inch strip of hard maple to the edges.  Maple backstop too.  Think I rounded the edges on the maple with the router.  All this was done in the basement during the summer.  So no gas furnace running.  But not much ventilation in the basement.  Never noticed any fumes or dangers.  I don't think its too dangerous to do plastic laminate work.  Even with the extra dangerous contact cement.
 
Thanks Tom and sigmatango. I can get the Wilsonart Greengaurd waterbased product from a cabinet parts warehouse online - no longer from Home Depot as it looks like they pulled it probably due to DIY's not following instructions and their stock sitting on shelf past manufacturers use by date of 1 year.

Any pointers on using the Wilsonart water based besides coating both surfaces and leaving dry longer than solvent based? Do you do thicker or multiple coats compared to using solvent based? Apply with brush or roller?
 
So you have access to a vacuum bag? Or the top already in place?
 
Using something like Ultra-Cat with a bag could work, and then throw grannie's electric blanket onto it for a day while it is curing.

Perhaps it is possible to use the electric blanket to prewarm the parts before contact cementing them?
 
At one point I was doing a lot of laminate work.  Personally I never cared for the non toxic low VOC products.  The product that TOM recommended might be ok.  I would see if a small quantity is available and do a few test pieces.  I've never had to use multiple coats of any contact cement. Coat both pieces well with a rubber or a contact cement roller.  Hardware stores carry them (Rubber/foam roller) not a paint roller sleeve.  And be patient.  I believe you'll be fine.  The electric blanket might be a great idea to preheat the parts    They will cool quick though

Enjoy your project
 
lumbajac said:
Thanks Tom and sigmatango. I can get the Wilsonart Greengaurd waterbased product from a cabinet parts warehouse online - no longer from Home Depot as it looks like they pulled it probably due to DIY's not following instructions and their stock sitting on shelf past manufacturers use by date of 1 year.

Any pointers on using the Wilsonart water based besides coating both surfaces and leaving dry longer than solvent based? Do you do thicker or multiple coats compared to using solvent based? Apply with brush or roller?
Click to expand...

Allowing the product to set longer is the key.

No thicker than normal. Thicker is not better in this situation.

Other than that, work the laminate as you would if using solvent based adhesive.

Tom
 
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