Last day to order Woodpeckers OneTIME DIY MFT Jig (US)

Since this would be my first experience with dog holes I might just get a sheet from Festool and worry about making my own later since there seems to be still things to ironed out with doing that yourself.

Watching Mr, Parf is seemed pretty straight forward though.
 
Cheese said:
Rick Herrick said:
Morning [member=44099]Cheese[/member] .  I am very interested in buying this WP jig and after reading this thread, it looks like this bushing you made is the key.  Will this have to be homemade, as you did, or do you know of another option?

I use the Part MK-II with no issues and I have a cutting table I made, that gives me good 5-cut results.  I don't anticipate using this jig for registration work but I do like the thought of less time doing the boring, which I think you indicated that the boring bit is much quicker than the 1/2" cutter?

Hey Rick...unfortunately, machining a custom bushing is the only route that I know of.  [sad]  Over the last several years I've had 25-30 requests for a bushing so there is a market out there and it's probably a lot larger than we think. I've even given the dimensions/drawing to [member=7266]jeffinsgf[/member] for him to diddle around with.

Just make sure that the bushing is a tight fit in the router and a slightly looser fit in the template. That way every time you reposition the router the bushing remains in the router.

I should add, I was boring through 18 mm Baltic birch rather than MDF and maybe that's the reason I had the issues that I did. At any rate, I just needed to solve the problem and the Festool cutter along with the bushing was the charm. The holes were rounder, easier to cut and faster to cut.

Also make sure to place a spoil board under the work piece to prevent tear-out on the bottom surface.

can you share the drawings/dimensions for the adapter? I can ask my friend to machine it for me. 
 
festal said:
can you share the drawings/dimensions for the adapter? I can ask my friend to machine it for me.

Here ya go...however, rather than going off of my dimensions, I'd suggest you gather up your items and measure those for a nice fit.

I've mentioned before that you want a nice snug fit on the ID of the aluminum bushing to the OD of the Woodpecker brass adapter, but a looser fit between the OD of the aluminum bushing and the ID of the Woodpecker jig. That way the aluminum bushing will always stay with the router which makes it a lot easier/faster to machine the holes.

I measured the ID of 3 different holes on the Woodpeckers jig. I measured each hole in 2 places 90º to each other. Here are the results:
1st hole = 1.474/1.475"
2nd hole = 1.472/1.473"
3rd hole = 1.473/1.474"
OD of my aluminum bushing = 1.470/1.470"

OD of Woodpecker brass adapter = 1.180/1.180"
ID of my aluminum bushing = 1.181/1.182"

Thickness/height of the aluminum bushing is .315".
Both the OD & the ID should have small chamfers to ease/aid assembly.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]
 

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Cheese said:
festal said:
can you share the drawings/dimensions for the adapter? I can ask my friend to machine it for me.

Here ya go...however, rather than going off of my dimensions, I'd suggest you gather up your items and measure those for a nice fit.

I've mentioned before that you want a nice snug fit on the ID of the aluminum bushing to the OD of the Woodpecker brass adapter, but a looser fit between the OD of the aluminum bushing and the ID of the Woodpecker jig. That way the aluminum bushing will always stay with the router which makes it a lot easier/faster to machine the holes.

I measured the ID of 3 different holes on the Woodpeckers jig. I measured each hole in 2 places 90º to each other. Here are the results:
1st hole = 1.474/1.475"
2nd hole = 1.472/1.473"
3rd hole = 1.473/1.474"
OD of my aluminum bushing = 1.470/1.470"

OD of Woodpecker brass adapter = 1.180/1.180"
ID of my aluminum bushing = 1.181/1.182"

Thickness/height of the aluminum bushing is .315".
Both the OD & the ID should have small chamfers to ease/aid assembly.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]
Thank you. So both get used with the 20mm bit? Woodpecker adapter and yours? Sorry trying to visualize it? Happen to have a picture of the assembled setup?

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festal said:
Thank you. So both get used with the 20mm bit? Woodpecker adapter and yours? Sorry trying to visualize it? Happen to have a picture of the assembled setup?

Yes both get used. The Woodpeckers brass adapter gets installed into the Festool template guide. Top view.

[attachimg=1]

Bottom view with Woodpeckers brass adapter poking out the bottom.

[attachimg=2]

Bottom view of the aluminum bushing being placed over the Woodpeckers brass adapter.

[attachimg=3]

The aluminum adapter now becomes the pilot for plunge cutting holes using the Festool 20 mm router bit.

[attachimg=4]

 

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Thank you
Hmm my bit looks different
9ccd8383fd71ce697d54e95e4ce2a8bc.jpg


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Im guessing that last photo cheese posted was when he was using the jig as WP intended and going around in circles to make the hole prior to his 2.0 version which seems like the logical way to do it.  IM not sure why they made the jig that way... Based on personal experience its darn near impossible to cut a perfectly round hole that way.

My bigger question is, I thought I had read lots of people complaining that the Festool bit 491072 produced a slightly larger hole and was problematic making for loose fitting dogs.  Is this not the case?  It seems easier just to make a new jig with the proper sized holes to fit the festool 30mm bushing and skip the custom machine ring.  From what I know about WP its going to be the cheaper method for sure. 

Back when I used the Parf MKII the bit that came with it made for very good fitting dogs (veritas and UJK dogs) I know there are lots of makers of dogs and that could be part of the issue to.  I wouldn't be opposed to making up some jigs on the cnc but I would have to figure out and buy the rings needed first so I can dial in the hole size just right for said ring.  It does take some experimentation and trial and error to get the hole just right so there is zero slop but also not a press fit. 
 
afish said:
Im guessing that last photo cheese posted was when he was using the jig as WP intended and going around in circles to make the hole prior to his 2.0 version which seems like the logical way to do it.  IM not sure why they made the jig that way... Based on personal experience its darn near impossible to cut a perfectly round hole that way.

[member=73094]afish[/member]  You're absolutely correct and on several issues.  [big grin]  The bit shown is the original 1/2" dia. Whiteside. 

During this entire debacle I talked several times with a WP engineer and he said they took about a half dozen MFT's and checked them on their vision system. Also, 2 of the MFT's were newly purchased so WP was keenly knowledgeable about the range of diameters of the holes along with the range of alignment of the holes.

WP did a great job in maintaining a narrow range of alignment of holes, however their choice of how to bore the holes...not so much. Especially if you use a Festool 1400 or 2200 router because of template ring shifting issues. Besides, you know people will be using this boring template on everything from MDF to ply to 1 3/4" maple bench tops and the "moving the router in circles" approach is fraught with real & other potential issues.

I'd have started with deciding upon the hole diameter you want to bore and then contact Whiteside or another toolmaker and have some cutters manufactured. The method used is really second to maintaining consistent hole diameters.

 
Ha good catch. totally missed it

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] what is the height of your aluminum bushing? hard to tell from the pictures
 
Few minutes on the belt sander and it fits
[mention]Cheese [/mention] how tight of a fit should it be ? I over did it a bit on the belt sander and it was falling off the woodpeckers bushing adapter. Little bit of blue tape fixed that part.
Will try to route few holes today to see how it goes
35a593b377b7a91ce04a1ad8e51d475b.jpg


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festal said:
Few minutes on the belt sander and it fits
[member=44099]Cheese[/member]  how tight of a fit should it be ? I over did it a bit on the belt sander and it was falling off the woodpeckers bushing adapter. Little bit of blue tape fixed that part.

I fabricated mine to be a tight fit on the Woodpecker bushing and a slip fit on the Woodpecker MFT jig. That way each time you move the router, the bushing also goes along for the ride.  [smile] 

Otherwise, you have to put the router down, remove the bushing from the jig, move the bushing to the next hole, pick the router back up and rout the hole...that method is a PITA.
 
Cheese said:
festal said:
Few minutes on the belt sander and it fits
[member=44099]Cheese[/member]  how tight of a fit should it be ? I over did it a bit on the belt sander and it was falling off the woodpeckers bushing adapter. Little bit of blue tape fixed that part.

I fabricated mine to be a tight fit on the Woodpecker bushing and a slip fit on the Woodpecker MFT jig. That way each time you move the router, the bushing also goes along for the ride.  [smile] 

Otherwise, you have to put the router down, remove the bushing from the jig, move the bushing to the next hole, pick the router back up and rout the hole...that method is a PITA.

Yep thats what I figured.  Moving it hole to hole will get annoying really fast.  I'll give it a try with painter's tape between the woodpeckers bushing and your bushing,  dry run works well, lets see how it goes when the router is running.
 
festal said:
I'll give it a try with painter's tape between the woodpeckers bushing and your bushing,  dry run works well, lets see how it goes when the router is running.

You could also add a few drops of cyanoacrylate to the combo. There's no harm in having the 2 pieces permanently bonded to each other, you're not going to use either one of them by themselves...they only function properly as a pair.
 
Cheese said:
festal said:
I'll give it a try with painter's tape between the woodpeckers bushing and your bushing,  dry run works well, lets see how it goes when the router is running.

You could also add a few drops of cyanoacrylate to the combo. There's no harm in having the 2 pieces permanently bonded to each other, you're not going to use either one of them by themselves...they only function properly as a pair.

hmm very good point.  Didn't think of that.  Thank you
 
Success but not without my stupidity lol

End result
633dbe76b455e03f6648fb98add5612f.jpg


35fc0139c74ac9c4a320239c0a7adb17.jpg


Lessons learned - don’t forget to adjust the stick out of the bit
I was wondering why it wouldn’t route deeper then the but from the bushing came loose. Few scratches in the collet lock but other then that no damage. Also the threads on the screw on lock nut got damaged but I got a spare one so it’s ok
f9428af0041c53d37c45f33e689ae5f8.jpg

This is the stick out I needed to go through the template and 3/4” plywood

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I just got a lathe and am learning to use it.  I decided to try and make the aluminum bushing from this thread and it turned out quite well.  I then was reading about the accuracy concerns regarding the OF1400 guide bushing adapters.  I decided to make a replacement guide bushing adapter to see if I could improve on the precision centering of the router bit.  Here are some pictures of what I made.  I am quite pleased with the results.  No discernable play in the bushing when inserted in the template and the router bit is perfectly centered (within .001" anyway).
 

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