Leveling a CMS-VL top

[RKA]

Does anyone have any instructions or tips on leveling out a CMS-VL?  I've never been happy with mine, but adding an incra positioner raised another issue, the VL sits higher than the MFT.  I assembled the VLso long ago that I can't remember if those anchors that secure the VL to the MFT are adjustable in any way.

Beyond that, the entire top of the CMS is a collection of parts that are not co-planar.  The inserts around the router shaft sit lower than the "router plate", I think can deal with that by not applying pressure directly over those inserts.  But the frame around the removable router plate and the plastic trim pieces on the edges aren't level so sliding stock across the surface results in catch points in certain places.  If possible I would like to address all of these issues.

 

[Bohdan]

If the frame is higher than the router plate you can add additional packing to lift it. Mine came with round plastic stickers attached to the plate to level it and I had to increase the thickness by adding some tape to lift it further.

 

[bkharman]

Does anyone have any instructions or tips on leveling out a CMS-VL?  I've never been happy with mine, but adding an incra positioner raised another issue, the VL sits higher than the MFT.  I assembled the VLso long ago that I can't remember if those anchors that secure the VL to the MFT are adjustable in any way.

Beyond that, the entire top of the CMS is a collection of parts that are not co-planar.  The inserts around the router shaft sit lower than the "router plate", I think can deal with that by not applying pressure directly over those inserts.  But the frame around the removable router plate and the plastic trim pieces on the edges aren't level so sliding stock across the surface results in catch points in certain places.  If possible I would like to address all of these issues.

Hey RKA! 

There are two parts to adjusting the VL to the MFT... get the V groove clips in place and adjust the Allen bolt on top to raise and lower things. Once it it level, then adjust the bottom to lock it in. Make sure all of the feet are leveled and locked before you do the above items.

I never really had issues with the router ring. Maybe I am lucky, maybe not. I did talk with Jerry at Precision before about an aluminum one, but it never took off. Maybe I can try and talk with Hans and Eric at TSO.

Let me know if this helped.

Cheers. Bryan.

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[lshah72414]

Festool USA has a supplemental users manual you can download from their site. I used that to setup my table. very helpful.
the screws closest to the mft where the vl attaches is the up/down adjustment.

 

[jjowen]

I just spent Saturday commissioning my new CS 50. First get the hight at the table correct for each corner, and then adjust each of the two props to get everything in plane. A long spirit level is helpful.

The combined VB VL manual can be downloaded from:
http://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/232380/festool-cs-50-vb-vl-accessories-precisio.html

 

[RKA]

[member=36526]Bohdan[/member]
[member=21412]bkharman[/member]
[member=62969]lshah72414[/member]
[member=52790]jjowen[/member]
Thanks guys!  I looked on Festool's site for the supplemental manuals before posting but didn't find anything.  After you guys mentioned it I used google and low and behold, there it is!  Looks like leveling out with the MFT is a piece of cake.  I'll start with that.  Shimming the router plate so it's level with the MFT should be easy.  Then I'll see where that leaves me.

Replacing those plastic inserts is interesting if they could work up something like incra's inserts to improve below the table dust collection.  But then they would probably need to make sets that are router specific. 

 

[Gregor]

Replacing those plastic inserts is interesting if they could work up something like incra's inserts to improve below the table dust collection.  But then they would probably need to make sets that are router specific.

The below table dust collection is purely a function of the router.

If you want you can modify the plastic inserts, like widen existing/add additional holes to collect more/at different places/not only directly around the bit - within reason as enough material has to be kept so they stay stable. They are quite cheap (for festool standards) so it's no big issue to play around a bit to find a good solution.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Thanks guys!  I looked on Festool's site for the supplemental manuals before posting but didn't find anything.  After you guys mentioned it I used google and low and behold, there it is! 

When in doubt, all of my manuals are located in one place on my website.

http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/

 

[RKA]

Okay, I’m having trouble moving the 4mm Allen bolts above the V pads.  They won’t turn clockwise or counterclockwise.  I need to pull the V pads tighter to the aluminum channel, so clockwise should do the job.  I’ve applied a good amount of force with a 4” long hex key, but I don’t want to strip out the bolts.  I can move the V pads along the aluminum channel 1mm in either direction, so the 4mm bolt isn’t so tight that the V block is locked inside that square channel.  I feel like I’m missing something obvious.

 

[bertv]

Untighten the 5 mm hex bolts that clamp the VL down, then adjust with the 4 mm bolts. Retighten after adjustment.

 

[RKA]

The 5mm bolts were loosened and the VL removed from the MFT.

 

[bkharman]

Okay, I’m having trouble moving the 4mm Allen bolts above the V pads.  They won’t turn clockwise or counterclockwise.  I need to pull the V pads tighter to the aluminum channel, so clockwise should do the job.  I’ve applied a good amount of force with a 4” long hex key, but I don’t want to strip out the bolts.  I can move the V pads along the aluminum channel 1mm in either direction, so the 4mm bolt isn’t so tight that the V block is locked inside that square channel.  I feel like I’m missing something obvious.

I know it feels like it will break the bolts but it shouldn’t. Do you have access to a 4mm t-handle style Allen wrench?  You can get more torque. I believe there is some thread lock down there or something that is making the tension. I haven’t had to adjust them in years but remember it being very tight. Plus if it has been used and had pressure, it might have seized up even further.

Cheers. Bryan.

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[RKA]

Thanks Bryan, that was exactly what I needed to hear.  IME, torque with these small hex bolts usually doesn’t end well.  It did snap loose with a little more torque.  I got the transition set correctly between the MFT and VL.  There is a dip in the middle of the infeed side of the router plate (our feed side is within reason).  I’m not sure how to smooth that out, it’s probably something I have to live with.

 

[bkharman]

Thanks Bryan, that was exactly what I needed to hear.  IME, torque with these small hex bolts usually doesn’t end well.  It did snap loose with a little more torque.  I got the transition set correctly between the MFT and VL.  There is a dip in the middle of the infeed side of the router plate (our feed side is within reason).  I’m not sure how to smooth that out, it’s probably something I have to live with.

Is it the router plate that has the dip?  Or is it the transition between the table and the plate?  You can adjust the table and you can put some hvac aluminum tape on the rounded bar that the plate pivots onto. If the plate itself is bent, you might need to get creative.

Cheers. Bryan.

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[RKA]

The router plate has the dip.