Locked Miter Joint w/o a router table (is it possible)?

[Charles Wilson]

I am going to make covers for 4x4 fence posts out of 1x cedar.  The plans call for butt joints but I don't think that a butt joint would look very nice and I don't want end grain exposed. 

Is this an adequate joint to use?  Are there alternative joint recommendations that you would suggest?

Currently don't have a router table but am looking at purchasing a Bench Dog Bench Top if needed (don't have table saw or domino either). 

Thanks,
Chuck

 

[Alan m]

sounds like a great excuse for a domino.
i would definetly want those type of bits in a table. there is no bearing and the fence and height of the bit has to be perfect.

 

[Charles Wilson]

Thanks Alan

I kind of had a feeling that was the way it was going. 

Opting for the router table as I have two applications that I can use it for on this project. 

With stainless steel nails and ample surface area to glue, I am guessing it will be very difficult for water to get in the joint (especially with a cap on the top of the cover).

I can mount my Bosch 1817 in the table and still use my OF 1400 for other things.

Chuck

 

[sancho57]

im building a portable router table now all i did was buy a router plate, cut a hole in the ply (prototype right now )  for the plate mount the router and fence its done, ya really dont need a fancy high priced router table, Gary Rogowski (spelling) used a piece od ply set in a trash can.

That way you'll have enough $$ to buy the domino 500 and the dominos...

 

[Kevin Stricker]

How do you plan to get the stock straight and flat enough for a lock miter?  That is really the big challenge if you are using 1x stock from a yard.  Before you spend a bunch of time, make sure you research exterior miters over at JLC.  Also consider epoxy or PE glue.

Make sure you gap the skins, as direct contact with PT wood is a good way to ruin your project.  It will get all the moisture it needs to open the joints from the inside.

 

[tiralie]

Before you spend a bunch of time, make sure you research exterior miters over at JLC.  Also consider epoxy or PE glue.

Make sure you gap the skins, as direct contact with PT wood is a good way to ruin your project.  It will get all the moisture it needs to open the joints from the inside.

What he said... [wink].
Check out steve demetrick's winter project photo's. Excellent work!
Also check out Gary Katz's article on Calk-Free Column Wrap I think a butt joint or a half lap would work as well but agree it might not look as good.
You could use a miter joint and biscuits but the miter edge of the cedar will curl and open up like the lip on an angry dog, in the viscous swings of temperature we get here in the North east.
Good luck.
Tim

 

[JPF Woodworking]

Gary's article suggests using Windsor One primed material to wrap outdoor posts. I would recommend staying away from stock that is finger jointed like Windsor One. I would suggest you use P5 which is simply kiln dried, pressure treated finish stock that is guaranteed not to rot (at least that is how it is advertised). I find this material is quite good for exterior trim work as it is demensionally stable, has no finger joins or such that can case problems down the road as well as it is extremely flat and straight which has been noted as a key to successful lock miter joints. I would recommend using a dado-rabbit joint with the grain of the stock running parallel to the post. Using a good exterior adhesive is all you will really need with proper fitting dado-rabbit joints. Filling/priming all end cuts is always essential with exterior work. Best of luck with your project!  John

 

[jmarkflesher]

Just a thought. LOWE sells one piece stamped copper caps for 4X4's. They weather nicely. MARK