Looking for Threaded insert for the 20 MM holes

[Batman]

I'm building a table for my ammo reloading equipment.  I'm going to put 20 mm holes in the top so I can use the festool clamps on the table. I will also use "some" of these 20 mm holes to screw my equipment to.  I'm looking for threaded inserts that will install into the 20 mm holes, so I can screw my equipment to the table, any ideas where I can get threaded inserts for a 20 MM hole.  The threaded inserts will need to be approximately .5944 - .7976 mm larger than the 20 mm hole.  Any ideas? 

The top I'm fastening these to is 1.75" think. It's one of those butcher block type of table tops.

Thanks in advance

 

[mwildt]

Use a Parf dog. Insert the dog from the back side and you have a 8 mm 'nut' that way.

You can see what I did here:http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/small-parts-vice-on-mft3/

E-Z look is a good vendor but 20 mm is way too large for what you want to do.

 

[Cheese]

Try these...
http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=59754&cat=1,41637

 

[rljatl]

Also, consider cutting two parallel dado's and use bolts to install t-track flush with the top of the bench and running the full length of the bench top. 

Mount your press and other equipment to phenolic plywood and then attach the plywood mounted equipment to the t-track with four t-nuts or t-bolts, two in each t-track.  Then you can slide the press or other equipment to the end of the bench and out of the way allowing you to use the middle of the bench to work on other things.

You can protect the bench top and cover the t-track with hardboard.  Cut the hardboard into three pieces to make it easy to remove and store when you're ready to reload.

 

[mwildt]

Try these...
http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=59754&cat=1,41637

Cool, didn't know of those.

 

[Batman]

wow, great ideas.  I'm going to wait to see what else comes up.  Sometimes there is quite a bit of force down on the handle, so I need to consider that, and the continuous moving of the handle.

 

[RustE]

Any reason you don't want to use bolts through the entire top?  Use a nylon spacer or similar to remove the slop between the 1/4" bolts and the 20mm hole.  At the bottom of each 1/4" bolt, use an extra thick fender washer with a self-locking nut.

 

[Batman]

Any reason you don't want to use bolts through the entire top?  Use a nylon spacer or similar to remove the slop between the 1/4" bolts and the 20mm hole.  At the bottom of each 1/4" bolt, use an extra thick fender washer with a self-locking nut.

I'm not sure why I don't want to do it this way.  It would sure eliminate the possibility of pulling the inserts out. I also like the idea of doing everything above the table.  Also, drilling all the way through will not limit the use of the holes with the inserts in them.

Is there a problem with using the festool clamps on a 1.75" hardwood top?

 

[Bohdan]

Is there a problem with using the festool clamps on a 1.75" hardwood top?

They are designed to fit on a 20 mm thick panel and will not fit thru a thicker panel without modification.

You will need to remove (grind off) the stop on the end of the shaft to enable the clamp to be pulled apart so that one half can be inserted thru the bottom of the hole in the table and then reassemble the clamp to use it - a real PITA.

 

[Wooden Skye]

Is there a problem with using the festool clamps on a 1.75" hardwood top?
[/quote]

I think the only issue would be reduced capacity.  If you have say 4" with a 3/4 top, obviously you would only have about 3" with solid wood top.

 

[tjbnwi]

Contact [member=10397]Hans[/member] from TSO.

Tom

 

[Corwin]

Is there a problem with using the festool clamps on a 1.75" hardwood top?

I think the only issue would be reduced capacity.  If you have say 4" with a 3/4 top, obviously you would only have about 3" with solid wood top.

The Festool clamps will not fit into a 20mm hole in a 1-3/4" thick top. The 3/4" thickness is about as thick as can go to be able to get any of the screw type clamps into the table top.

 

[Holmz]

I'm building a table for my ammo reloading equipment. 
...

It will need to be a lot stiffer than an MFT if you are doing reloading, so design it well.

 

[Batman]

I'm building a table for my ammo reloading equipment. 
...

It will need to be a lot stiffer than an MFT if you are doing reloading, so design it well.

The top is a butcher block type of top, did you see that above? Do you see any concern with that ?

 

[Batman]

Contact [member=10397]Hans[/member] from TSO.

Tom

Who is [member=10397]Hans[/member] and where/what is TSO?

 

[Holmz]

I'm building a table for my ammo reloading equipment. 
...

It will need to be a lot stiffer than an MFT if you are doing reloading, so design it well.

The top is a butcher block type of top, did you see that above? Do you see any concern with that ?

Yeah... I see the legs wobbling every time the lever is pulled and the torque transits from the lever to surface, to legs. You will want some gussets/fillets, or sheer panels of ply to make it rigid. Ideally then on non-reload days you can hand-plane on the same bench. An MFT is clearly not right, but even the top of it would be OK... it is all in the legs.

It sounds like an ideal setup for you, just some overkill on the stiffness makes sense here... So I would suggest a focus on the undercarriage. Maybe a torsion box of sorts?

 

[DrD]

[member=64816]Batman[/member]

Built myself a reloading/workbench out of 3/4" ply for top and lower shelf and 2 x 4's for frame and legs - similar to but longer than one from Kreg Tools website.  Have 4 Posness-Warren 900 series reloaders and 3 Pro-Jector 7's mounted on it, and nary a problem.  When not in use - which is infrequent - it can be moved out of the way in my shop; been thinking about adding 4" locking swivel casters to it.

Just a note, as far as using Festool clamps, I cannot get mine thru a 1" thick top with 20mm holes, so I stick with Finnish 3/4" tops.

 

[rljatl]

Check out the leg sets available at Grizzly and Sears.

Super Heavy-Duty Workbench Leg System

 

[Cheese]

Here's another approach. I used this method to attach a small/medium 45# metal working vise to a 1 3/4" thick maple butcher block top. This also allowed me to mount the vise on either end of the bench or obviously remove it entirely for long objects.

I machined some pins from 6061 or T6511 aluminum round, they're just under 20mm in diameter, have a 1 1/4" diameter head that's 1/2" thick and are tapped with a 3/8 - 16 thread. I used Woodpeckers hand knobs designed for a 3/8" hex bolt.

Two are attached from the bottom and one from the top. The maple top will hold this load easily, just make sure the table legs are as capable. MFT style...not so much.

 

[RustE]

Here's another approach. I used this method to attach a small/medium 45# metal working vise to a 1 3/4" thick maple butcher block top. This also allowed me to mount the vise on either end of the bench or obviously remove it entirely for long objects.

Took me a minute to notice that your vise is mounted to a piece of plywood and not directly to the bench.  I like this idea a lot and might borrow it for a vise that a friend gave me.