LR32 question

[jaykojc]

Hey All, I'm going to build a pantry cabinet for the kitchen. I've got the LR32 system which I've used, but not extensively. I'm a competent home gamer, but I'm not particularly well versed in the Euro cabinet system.

So...I'm planning to make a base cabinet and a top cabinet with dominos (unglued) connecting the two for eventual portability. When I measure these out, the length of the sides of both the top and bottom cabinets need to be 32mm * x, correct? I'd like to be able to use the Festool rail without too much finagling, so I assume that means I need my 32MM * x to be less than 1400MM total? EG the length of my top (larger) cabinet can be no more than about 50". Am I thinking about that right?

 

[twistsol1]

When using the LR32, you will get a bit less because the end stops take up a three or three and a half of your holes on each end.

With a 1400 rail, if you are using 16 up and out, the panel needs to be a multiple of 32mm and a maximum of 1216mm. 32 up and out would be a max of 1184mm

9.5 up and out allows for up to 1229 which is a multiple of 32 + 13, but it is intended for drilling into the middle of 19mm sheet stock not a starting point for a row of holes so I've never done that and you should definitely check my math.

 

[jaykojc]

Thanks for the response!  Point of clarification...when you say "up and out," are you talking about the dimensions of the top hole from the edge, and the offset of the holes from the front of the panel?

 

[peter halle]

Thanks for the response!  Point of clarification...when you say "up and out," are you talking about the dimensions of the top hole from the edge, and the offset of the holes from the front of the panel?

Up and Out refers to the stop that you place at the ends of the hole rail.  You will see the numbers 16 and 32 on them.  Up and out refers to the number you can see beyond the rail when you insert and use them. 

Peter

 

[twistsol1]

Thanks for the response!  Point of clarification...when you say "up and out," are you talking about the dimensions of the top hole from the edge, and the offset of the holes from the front of the panel?

As Peter noted, up and out refers to the markings on the LR32 stops. 16 up and out also means the first hole will be centered 16mm from the end of the panel. 32 up and out would center the hole 32 from the end of the panel.  For shelves, it doesn't really matter which one you use since if your first hole is at 128mm or 1444mm or 160mm etc. since no one will notice. If you are adding drawers, the first hole position might matter based on the drawer slides you are using.

 

[Coen]

Hey All, I'm going to build a pantry cabinet for the kitchen. I've got the LR32 system which I've used, but not extensively. I'm a competent home gamer, but I'm not particularly well versed in the Euro cabinet system.

So...I'm planning to make a base cabinet and a top cabinet with dominos (unglued) connecting the two for eventual portability. When I measure these out, the length of the sides of both the top and bottom cabinets need to be 32mm * x, correct? I'd like to be able to use the Festool rail without too much finagling, so I assume that means I need my 32MM * x to be less than 1400MM total? EG the length of my top (larger) cabinet can be no more than about 50". Am I thinking about that right?

Best to always reference from one side. Then total length doesn't matter. Even half a mm off for one row will be noticeable.

With 800mm high base cabinet (default Ikea Metod height) it is 25x32 however.

-I wanted to say... if you copy their hole pattern you can use Ikea stuff, but it seems they switched to 50mm spacing of their holes... meh.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

There is another rail with the 32mm system holes in it, the FS2424. It's not exactly easy to get ahold of one though. It took me several weeks of waiting, after the order was placed.

 

[Sparktrician]

There is another rail with the 32mm system holes in it, the FS2424. It's not exactly easy to get ahold of one though. It took me several weeks of waiting, after the order was placed.

One can also join two 1400 mm "holy rails" using the end stop as a temporary spacer without losing the 32 mm spacing increments. [smile]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

There is another rail with the 32mm system holes in it, the FS2424. It's not exactly easy to get ahold of one though. It took me several weeks of waiting, after the order was placed.

One can also join two 1400 mm "holy rails" using the end stop as a temporary spacer without losing the 32 mm spacing increments. [smile]

I'm in a rather spoiled situation where I don't "have to" join rails. I'm just not a fan of doing that. When I use the longer rails, there usually a lot of cuts to be made, setting the rail aside between them. Moving joined rails just seems sketchy to me, so I avoid it as much as possible.
I use them primarily for saws, once in a while a router. I have only used the FS2424 for LR32 once. That was the project I bought it for. I've sawed with it a lot though.

 

[thudchkr]

I've done a lot of cabinets using the 2424 holey rail.  Most of my shop built cabinets are too big to use the 1400 rail on.  My first holey rail was a 1080 and then I picked up the 2424.  Only recently did I get one of the 1400 rails.

 

[Rick Herrick]

When I first started with the LR-32, lots of folks pointed me to this set of vids on YT.  Very, very good help on the LR-32.  I suggest you check it out.  I think there are 7-8 videos in total.  You may not need to watch all but they are worth it.

Festool LR32 Introduction part 1....

 

[bobtskutter]

Those videos are a great place to start.

It can be very confusing which way to fit the metal stop blocks to the rails - take it slow and double check your rail position.  Make sure the stop blocks are in contact with the work piece.

Remember to calibrate the set back stops using the notch on the side of the LR32 router sled.

Your panel height can be any number you like.  Numbers that work with the LR32 stop blocks are easiest because you can reference of the top or bottom edge of the panel.  If there is any gap between the stop block and work piece edge make sure you reference off the same edge, e.g. make sure the stop block is against the top edge.  It's very easy to reference of the wrong edge if your panel height isn't quite an "LR32 number".  You might be aiming for 25*32=800mm, but if your panel is 798mm your holes won't line up if you reference from the top for one row of holes and the bottom for the other row of holes (I've done this a few times).

Regards
bob

 

[xedos]

Moving joined rails just seems sketchy to me, so I avoid it as much as possible.

Nothing sketchy about moving, cutting, or routing with a pair of properly joined rails.  We've been doing it since the days of the single spine rails 30yrs ago.  Sure a xtra long single rail is nice if you're shop based but try getting one of those in a small highrise elevator or transporting in and out of a vehicle on a reg. basis.

 

[Coen]

Yeah no idea why they make elevators always too short. Even 16mm PVC (4m lengths = default) is a problem for lots of residential elevators. But at least that easily be cold bended in a U that will fit  [tongue]

But the joint is always a weak point.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Moving joined rails just seems sketchy to me, so I avoid it as much as possible.

Nothing sketchy about moving, cutting, or routing with a pair of properly joined rails.  We've been doing it since the days of the single spine rails 30yrs ago.  Sure a xtra long single rail is nice if you're shop based but try getting one of those in a small highrise elevator or transporting in and out of a vehicle on a reg. basis.

Before I got the FS1900, I would join a FS1400 and a FS1080. It just never felt all that stable.
I have definitely had a router move a rail though. It was barely long enough and possibly not clamped as well as it could have been. Fortunately, I noticed it and had enough to remove on the second pass, to straighten it out.
The long rails are really nice in a big shop situation, but yeah, they are unwieldy otherwise. A FS1900 is about as much as you would want to take anywhere.

 

[Sparktrician]

Nothing sketchy about moving, cutting, or routing with a pair of properly joined rails.  We've been doing it since the days of the single spine rails 30yrs ago.  Sure a xtra long single rail is nice if you're shop based but try getting one of those in a small highrise elevator or transporting in and out of a vehicle on a reg. basis.

And THAT is the main reason I keep two 1400mm holy rails and a 1080mm holy rail. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

A holey 1080 would be a welcome addition, but those are NLA.
I have been seeing the usefulness of an FS800 lately though. Maybe that's in my future? Still waiting on word about the TS60.... [unsure]

 

[mino]

Before I got the FS1900, I would join a FS1400 and a FS1080. It just never felt all that stable.
I have definitely had a router move a rail though. ...

Do try at least one set of the black Makita connectors. They are very cheap at $20-ish/set.

They do not dent the rails, so can be tightened way more without damaging the rails. The joining is then rock solid, way stronger than even the new Festool or TSO connectors can do.

Disadvantage is they need a reference edge, unlike the new self-aligning set. But that is easy if a third rail is around the shop.

They are super practical for semi-permanently joined rails to the point that I believe getting two 1400s and semi-permanently joining them into a 2800 to have around in the shop is viable. That is not so with any other connector type.